Last weekend I backpacked a few days along the Pacific Crest Trail from the southern Kennedy Meadows area. Driving up on Saturday afternoon I saw hordes of people at the two restaurants, along the river and also at the campground. It's definitely a popular place for a holiday! My plan was to spend the night at the trailhead and leave in the morning but with no space available I figured I would just walk in a couple miles and set up camp. I remembered there was a flat area just past Crag Creek so I made that my goal. While racing the setting sun it occurred to me that this little spot was quite a bit further than I remembered, but I made it as the sun dipped behind the higher mountains surrounding so I still had light enough to set up camp. There was another tent in the area so I made my way out past some larger trees to avoid any crowding - nothing was exactly flat so I scraped enough dirt to level out a spot for sleeping. After watching the sunset while eating I climbed under the quilt and read for a couple hours.
Trail marker near the BLM campground and where I had to park.
The first couple of miles are next to the Kern River.
First notable landmark, bridge over the river. There were already some tents in the area so I kept moving.
Approaching Crag Creek.
Last of the sun and I still had a half mile to reach camp.
Sunset on the first trail night.
In the morning I filled up with water and then chatted with the couple also camped there, inquiring if they had seen a trail that shows on CalTopo. The answer was no, and I couldn't find any evidence of it either, but I still took it as a shortcut to avoid a long switchback when I started hiking. This long uphill section was getting warm by the time I got to a saddle/crest, near where I had camped last year. I kept heading north on the PCT, spotting a couple hikers well below the trail who shouted "water!" back up to me. Turned out there was a spring, which was nice for me - while I had enough to reach the river crossing a few miles ahead I liked the idea of taking a break so I scooped up a bottle full and eventually got back on trail. This turned out to be a short day and I reached the Kern River and the famous Swallow Bridge around noon, leaving me time to scout around the meager campsites for one that was both somewhat level and large enough to set up my Protrail. I got the lower end pointed into the wind, what I didn't count on was the wind shifting and increasing. During the afternoon I had to use all the tie-outs on one side to keep things from blowing over and fortunately managed to get it all staked OK with the help of some large rocks. Meanwhile I lounged by the river, walking across it a few times and cleaning off plenty of trail dirt. Plenty of PCT hikers showed up in the later part of the day so I was pretty happy to have arrived early enough to get a decent spot. I also met up again with the couple I saw in the morning and we looked at the maps and talked about plans for the next couple days. We had both seen a point labeled Deer Island with a trail running nearby so I planned to hike that direction in the morning, making a lollipop route back to KM. The wind finally died out around 9pm so I was able to get a decent sleep despite the temperature of about 34 degrees which was significantly colder than forecasted.
Crag Peak above the creek, two summits are listed on the map.
Walking up the long valley through a very old burn area.
Sign fell off the tree, I didn't bring any tools to re-attach it.
The Sierras keep teasing with views of snow-capped peaks. I believe that's Olancha Peak on the right.
The mighty Kern River finally reappears ahead.
Lounge spots along the river.
The swallows build mud nests under the bridge.
The next morning the hikers down by the river that cowboy camped all had frost on their bags so their gear was spread out over the scrub brush to dry out, my stuff was all dry. After a leisurely breakfast and packing up camp I set out on the PCT for less than a mile before detouring onto what is listed as a trail, looks like a jeep road and has the debris of a cattle route. It was still obvious where to go so I followed this track until the southern ridge of this hill, where I left my pack at a large sandy area. Armed with just a water bottle I set out up the ridge, walking through and around the low brush until I reached the summit about 20 minutes later. While I was hopping up some rocks for my summit pose I was surprised to find a register, the last signature in there was from June 2022. There was also a business card for California Mountaineering Club [http://californiamountaineer.net] in Pasadena. I got a little turned around on top and retreated back a much different route as some rock faces kept pushing me a direction different than where I intended, which in the end cost me maybe two extra minutes. Once again on the semi-trail/road, I saw a couple guys in a ATV along a dirt road, I thought they were representing the ranch ahead of me. Eventually I waded through the river and then began walking along that same road, which despite showing as a trail on paper maps and CalTopo led to a locked gate with Stop and No Trespassing signs. So I did what any good Pirate would do, stepping over the barbed wire and following it up the through Beck Meadow parallel to the road/trail. Of course this was much rougher and my legs paid the price both in weariness from the sandy terrain and blood loss from the myriad cuts and scratches incurred. Finally I skirted over some rock outcropping and headed back toward the PCT, intersecting with another fence line which included an unlocked gate. Stepping through that, I was on a thin trail also listed as just a dotted line on the map although it was real easy to follow. I finally reached the same spring from the previous day, where I took a very long break for lunch and drank a couple bottles of water. I had planned to camp at my spot from last year but it was still early when I arrived and I didn't want to sit around for six hours, so I headed back down the trail again. Once more I stopped at Crag Creek for a Snickers break and last refill of a water bottle and then powered down the rest of the way, only stopping briefly at the lower bridge crossing. I was tired and it was getting to where I would be really late if I drove home, so I stopped at a nice spot right at the Tulare county line where some improved dirt roads host a number of good free camp spots.
Headed toward the tree-covered Deer Island.
Left my stuff near the south ridge and made my way up here.
It got a little more interesting when I ran into this band of rock, I found a pine needle-covered drainage off to the right.
Summit. I didn't jump from here.
Looking back down over Monache Meadow toward Beck Meadow. My route was around to the right and then the saddle in the distance.
Random gate. I walked through it despite all the barbed wire missing from either side.
PCT sign, I took some time to gather these rocks and set it up again.
Crossing the lower bridge again, nearly back to KM.
It's pretty dry here in the transition zone, both Beck and Monache meadows are already turning brown and all the cattle seem to be moved elsewhere.
Total for my trip was about 28 miles, 14.5 on the last day which was more than I planned. Actually could have camped by the lower bridge and saved my legs a few miles that day.
Kennedy Meadows, Kern River and Deer Island
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JeffH
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"Argue for your limitations and sure enough they're yours".
Donald Shimoda
Donald Shimoda
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dima
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Thanks for the report. I guess this is between the deserty and the really-high-mountain sections? How far to the south to the no-trees desert areas, and the other way to the snowy peaks?
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JeffH
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Kennedy Meadows is usually considered to be the divider between desert and Sierras for PCT hikers. It's about 20 trail miles south of Olancha Peak and 50 trail miles north of Walker Pass. I haven't hiked south of KM so I don't know how desert-like it is there except for I'm pretty sure there is very little water.
"Argue for your limitations and sure enough they're yours".
Donald Shimoda
Donald Shimoda
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David R
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I was up there just before Memorial Day but hiked from the west side and did some peaks out of the Domelands vicinity. Beautiful country and hardly anyone about.
