Modjeska's East Face
Posted: Mon May 22, 2023 4:55 pm
Santiago Peak is the highest and Modjeska Peak the lowest of two peaks that together are usually called Saddleback in the Santa Anas. You can drive to the top of each of them and there are several trail options. I've climbed both several times from many routes. Satellite views showed a giant talus field on the east face of Modjeska and I aimed to explore it. I drove up Maple Springs Road to the large turnout area a little more than a mile below Modjeska. The paved portion of the road was in poor shape with large potholes and water flowing over the road in at least 5 places. The dirt portion of the road had been rutted and was not great the last time I drove it, but I was pleasantly surprised to find it had been graded. It was probably done after the rains and I didn't even need high clearance. After parking, I took the trail that runs up the northwest side, saving some time over the Main Divide Road. The trail dumped me below the final ridge, but I continued over the road and down the use trail that connects Modjeska with Santiago. That trail drops to 5000' at the saddle. I left the trail at the saddle through light brush, trees, and leaf litter to reach the talus field.
Modjeska from the parking area
Into the forest from the saddle
Reached the talus slope, looking down Coldwater Canyon
The talus was a mix of small red and gray rocks. Larger rocks would have been easier to navigate. I had mapped out a route that followed the talus sort of northeasterly, avoiding the forested sections on the east face. However, after I was on it, the talus was so loose, it became difficult to make upward progress. Instead, I decided to head for the forested sections where I could at least use trees and bushes to pull myself up. It was very steep and slow. I took some drone shots of me fumbling around on the talus, then tried to find the path of least resistance up. There were a few large rock outcrops, class 2/3, and those made travel easier and stable. About 100' below the summit, I stopped to rest below a boulder where a wall of trees seemed to block all progress. When I got my breath back, I took off my pack and hoisted it on the top the boulder. I broke off some of the branches of the trees on both sides and that allowed me to climb on top of the boulder. This was the crux and got me onto much easier terrain with a mostly clear shot to the summit. I had gained about 500' in a quarter mile. On the way down, I took the road and heard a rattlesnake to my left. I stopped and looked, but it wasn't until the 3rd rattle that I spotted a well hidden snake above me just off the road. I was never closer than 12' but I appreciated the warning.
Memorial plaque for Richard Cox (2009-12-27). I found it in the grass and set it up on a boulder
My guess is a speckled rattlesnake, so hidden I didn't see him until the 3rd rattle.
Weird dust devil by the truck
Modjeska from the parking area
Into the forest from the saddle
Reached the talus slope, looking down Coldwater Canyon
The talus was a mix of small red and gray rocks. Larger rocks would have been easier to navigate. I had mapped out a route that followed the talus sort of northeasterly, avoiding the forested sections on the east face. However, after I was on it, the talus was so loose, it became difficult to make upward progress. Instead, I decided to head for the forested sections where I could at least use trees and bushes to pull myself up. It was very steep and slow. I took some drone shots of me fumbling around on the talus, then tried to find the path of least resistance up. There were a few large rock outcrops, class 2/3, and those made travel easier and stable. About 100' below the summit, I stopped to rest below a boulder where a wall of trees seemed to block all progress. When I got my breath back, I took off my pack and hoisted it on the top the boulder. I broke off some of the branches of the trees on both sides and that allowed me to climb on top of the boulder. This was the crux and got me onto much easier terrain with a mostly clear shot to the summit. I had gained about 500' in a quarter mile. On the way down, I took the road and heard a rattlesnake to my left. I stopped and looked, but it wasn't until the 3rd rattle that I spotted a well hidden snake above me just off the road. I was never closer than 12' but I appreciated the warning.
Memorial plaque for Richard Cox (2009-12-27). I found it in the grass and set it up on a boulder
My guess is a speckled rattlesnake, so hidden I didn't see him until the 3rd rattle.
Weird dust devil by the truck