Cactus to Clouds (5/4/19)

Archived TRs for ranges in California.
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davidwiese
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Post by davidwiese »

This past weekend I completed my 2nd C2C hike. More info can be found on this guide. It's one of the more challenging day hikes around, and my crew decided to carry up overnight gear as well because we hate ourselves and to extend the trip over the weekend.

My stats:
21.2 miles
11,118' elevation gain
37:43 min/mile
1 long day

My lighterpack for this trip:
https://lighterpack.com/r/7mkspx

Some pics (also embedded below):
https://imgur.com/a/Jrxetrt

This hike should only be attempted on cooler days in the spring and fall. Typical start times are from midnight-3am. It was 75deg last year when we started at 3am. This year we started at 2am and it was still 72deg.

There are a lot of horror stories about people getting into trouble on this trail for a variety of reasons, but ultimately they perish from exposure. The main thing to consider is that at a certain point, you have to commit to at least making it up to Long Valley (~8 miles and ~8,000' elevation gain from the start). There are two rescue boxes on the way up that usually contain some snacks, water, and first aid items. Most would say that once you pass rescue 1, you commit to the valley. Turning around and descending into the heat is how most people die.

We all started with 5L of water because there is none available until you reach Long Valley. I ended up going through nearly 4L before we could refill.
The first 8 miles are the hardest part of the hike. They average 1,000'/mile, with the final 2 miles gaining 2,500'. We kept a great pace at the start, climbing the first 4,000' in 3 hours. We'd maintain this pace and reach the ranger station in Long Valley in just under 8 hours. We took one solid break at Flat Rock (5,900') before making the final push up.

The valley is where things usually get quite a bit easier. You only have ~5.5 more miles to the summit and ~2,500' more elevation gain. This year was quite a bit different from last year though with the record rain/snowfall we've received in CA. We hiked through Long Valley and into Round Valley, and then the snow started. If the trail wasn't covered in slushy snow, it was a muddy stream.

Eventually we reached the campsites in Round Valley at 9,100' and dropped our heavy packs to make camp. We set up our tents and dropped off everything we didn't need for the summit, and then hit the trail once more.

The final 3 miles to the summit were pretty slow. Everything just takes longer in those conditions. We stopped briefly to put on our microspikes about a mile from the top, and found ourselves celebrating on the summit shortly after. We took in the great views and snapped a few pictures, then headed back down toward Round Valley.
One in our crew was pretty beat, so when we reached the trail into the camp, he went to go get some rest. Me and the other guy made the trek to the top of the San Jacinto Aerial Tramway station to officially complete the hike (and grab a beer) before hiking BACK UP to camp for the night. It added a couple of miles and a bit of elevation gain, but we had no regrets.

Temps got down into the low 40s before sunrise. We woke to the dawn chorus at first light, broke down camp, and made for the tram once more. The ride down only takes ~10 minutes. To the south you can see the ridge you walked up the previous morning and take it all in.

Thoughts on gear:
My total pack weight with 5L of water, 4,000cal of food, microspikes, cold overnight gear, etc. clocked in at 24.5lb. I used my Pa'lante V2 (frameless, no hipbelt) for this trip and the weight was definitely at the very top end of what I would use it for again. I got it recently, and I really wanted to test the pack with a heavy load. I loved having all my snacks available in the various pockets. It was uncomfortable on my shoulders for the first few miles until I had eaten a few snacks and drank 1-2L of water, but after that it was manageable.

The rest of my gear I've been using for a while and performed as expected. The Hillsound microspikes are a bit beefier than most others (slightly longer/more teeth, steel), but I always appreciate the confidence they give me on steeper aspects. The snow got a bit slushy later in the day, but they were still useful. Left my crampons and ice axe at home and never felt like I needed them.
C2C finisher with San G in the background.
C2C finisher with San G in the background.
Pretty slushy in the afternoon. Microspikes were only so helpful.
Pretty slushy in the afternoon. Microspikes were only so helpful.
Looking out from the emergency hiker hut near the summit.
Looking out from the emergency hiker hut near the summit.
View looking south from Wellman Divide.
View looking south from Wellman Divide.
Ascending through Round Valley toward Wellman Divide.
Ascending through Round Valley toward Wellman Divide.
Near Round Valley.
Near Round Valley.
Coffman's Crag.
Coffman's Crag.
San Gorgonio in the distance, we're at about 8,000' here.
San Gorgonio in the distance, we're at about 8,000' here.
Looking south around 5,000'.
Looking south around 5,000'.
Looking up toward our first goal of the day - Grubb's Notch leading into Long Valley.
Looking up toward our first goal of the day - Grubb's Notch leading into Long Valley.
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davidwiese
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Post by davidwiese »

The first two pics:
Right before sunrise, we've already climbed over 4,000'.
Right before sunrise, we've already climbed over 4,000'.
Shortly after 2am, looking down on Palm Springs.
Shortly after 2am, looking down on Palm Springs.
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dima
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Post by dima »

Cool trip! I really like seeing the sun come up from high up on that ridge. You can try some of the neighboring ridges if you go up again. A few of us climbed up Leatherneck ridge some years back. Similar terrain to the ridge from the museum, but no trail.
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davidwiese
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Post by davidwiese »

Recent reports are saying Leatherneck ridge is off-limits due to private property. Apparently the guy who owns it will call the cops and has even shot at people...

I'd love to do it via Snow Creek next winter as an overnight mountaineering trip.
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dima
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Post by dima »

Hmmm? Can you point me to the reports? I don't remember seeing any development anywhere near it at all.
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davidwiese
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Post by davidwiese »

I had mentioned wanting to climb that route to the rangers at Long Valley and they both said it was off limits and private property. On the tram ride down I pointed it out to my buddy and the tram operator said the same thing! She was the one that mentioned police helicopters responding to trespassers and the shootings.

Not sure where they got that information.
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dima
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Post by dima »

I'm wondering if they're confusing it with the approach to Snow Creek. Speaking of which, I still need to do that one...
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davidwiese
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Post by davidwiese »

That's definitely possible. I need to do that one, too...
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Sean
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Post by Sean »

There are a couple legal ways to access Leatherneck Ridge. Check out this report to start near the lower tram parking. And this one to start at the bottom near the Palm Springs visitor center. I'm not aware of any trespassing issues at the bottom, but we did start before sunrise and couldn't see much.
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