Not a whole lotta info on the place. I misplaced my topos of Strawberry Roam (the Mendenhalls did that way back when), and photos of stuff, so I got to check the place out sometime last year (via drone of course), and I went again with Amanda as usual. She took all the pics because I was too busy being excited, nervous, careful not to drop tons of rock on her or the rope, trying to find decent protection. Just like everywhere I've been in the San Gabes on good rock... pro is hard to find, so things are either sort of run out (often with bad falls), or with some slung bushes and chockstones kinda thing. Some pretty cool moments, though.
Anyway, Armando and my drone tried what someone calls the Buttress of the Winter Wind, and bailed after a pitch and a half up because of dangerous rockfall concerns. I was knocking down some pretty big pieces. When we pulled the rope from where I bailed on pitch 2, the rope fell on a flake I had gingerly dealt with while climbing. I carefully got most of it back to the belay (the flake is on the right). The last bit caused the flake (maybe 40-50lbs) to fall, and hit the rope, giving my well-worn newest rope it's first core shot. Only 3ft from the end, so no biggie, don't lose much rope.
We hiked west to go up the west ridge to the summit. Met a guy named Sean (Shawn?) and we talked about coolguy stuff. Hiked out to the drone base and that's it.
Some pics!
VERY EXCITE!
Pitch 1, which is both helped and hampered by that dang bush which decided to keep us climbers off cliffs! The madness! About 5.8 or so with the bush. One sling around the bush and a #4 cam I think. 2 bolt anchor which is about 5 years old.
Looking up the rest of the way. The route would go through that notch in the center of the 'horizon'.
More pro on P2, but I was at a point where I wasn't sure I could keep from bringing some big rocks down, especially since we had more pitches to go with more big loose stuff on them.
Time to boogie!
West Ridge
More pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/tacodelrio ... 539956074/
I'd maybe like to go back sometime, but I'd pay more attention to the main face further right. More compact rock, higher quality, and hopefully not as many big loose bits. Not a lot of crack systems, and they don't last long, so I'd personally like to go for a few days and aid climb it on lead, then TR solo the pitch to try and free it. Protection would probably be knifeblade and RURP pitons, small to tiny nuts, small cams, etc. Lots of seams. This would honestly be the only cliff where you could nail (place pitons) without anyone noticing. Everyone feels slightly different about it. Probably a lot of hooking with not-so-wonderful pro below. Who knows.
Cheers
20140105 Strawberry Peak North Face
Bold!
There are certainly harder climbs out there, but Strawberry strikes me as flat out dangerous. Good to hear rockfall didn't get anybody!
I still have a pair of climbing shoes in size 12 you can have if you need them...we never quite worked that out.
Anyhow, cool stuff man.
There are certainly harder climbs out there, but Strawberry strikes me as flat out dangerous. Good to hear rockfall didn't get anybody!
I still have a pair of climbing shoes in size 12 you can have if you need them...we never quite worked that out.
Anyhow, cool stuff man.
Hi taco ..I'm Sean and I met you and Amanda on on Sunday..Impressive pics she took..thanks for the invite on joining the site. I'll take you up on your offer on Fish Creek next time you make a decent...or any other canyon or climb or whatever,whenever schedules allow...I have Fridays to Sunday off from the grind. I will be more free in the later part of Feb and on. I'm poking round the site and like what I see:) nice to have meet you two and hope to see you out and about..,best regards and safe travels! Sean Anderson.