New Year's Day - San Gabriel Ice Climbing

Post by **Taco** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 11:52 am

Johnny and I went off to the secret Eispiraten crag near Ricehouse Canyun. Temps have been low lately, which ain't so hot for folks climbing mainly snow routes, but it's good for ice formation. Thus, offeth we wenteth.

Pics:

Johnny on the approach.

Sap icicle amongst the rest.

BIFF BAM BOOM! Rightmost flow in the dihedral is Crevature Police WI2, and big flow on the left of it is Phoenix Wings WI3+ M4 (both are to the right of the waterfall). Some mixed moves, so the M4 grade is real though it's one of those things one could argue about.

Some dinnerplating, keeps the belayer attentive!

Old school pound-start Salewa

Johnny stoked

Johnny rapping down what would become Crevature Police WI2

Myself going up CP WI2

Johnny working on some mixed footwork

Johnny on PW WI3+ M4

Yours truly on Phoenix Wings, in Johnny's signature photo style.

On the rest step on PW. Note high speed new Mammut headlamp, and old school Salewa pound in screws'

Post by **Taco** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 12:11 pm

Route page: http://www.summitpost.org/phoenix-wing-wi3-m3/688961

M3 is a more accurate grade than M4, so Johnny hit it on the head.

James · Post by **James** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 12:21 pm

Nice ice, looks like fun!

mve · Post by **mve** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 12:44 pm

Nice ice climbing and Happy New Year Ryan!

Johnny Bronson · Post by **Johnny Bronson** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 12:59 pm

Rough topos

Depending on how cold it gets and how much more the waterfall freezes.There should be a couple more lines to the left =D Had a wonderful start to the new year with Ryan =D

Mainly the rating comes from the ice being not so solid requiring more finesse,reflecting more on mixed technical aspect and commitment/trusting your placement in thin ice.The ice is not bomber plastic,so naturally it will spider crack.It is all about finding a balance and trusting.

The mixed grade is stout.Hard to tell the exact details in the pictures,but its a minor crack system and there are two bulge ledges covered in snow,not ice where you must use mixed techniques.If you were to blow the specific moves,there could be a decent fall depending on protection and or impact to the rock.Front point slotting into micro cracks and stemming positions on dry/wet rock etc.All while cleaning through the cracks to get a good placement =) super enjoyable

waterfall before top secret crag,the ice was just too thin to really make it worthwhile,somespots were solid,but not to make a full pitch.

Taco playing an exquisite masterpiece on this beautiful alpine organ on the way up to the crag. =D

Messing around with a V thread

Post by **Taco** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 1:34 pm

mve wrote: Nice ice climbing and Happy New Year Ryan!

Cheers, V! Happy new year to you too!

secondlizard · Post by **secondlizard** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 2:47 pm

What a great day. Glad to see you can play with the ice this early in the year.

lilbitmo · Post by **lilbitmo** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 7:37 pm

Nice work Taco and Johnny - no need to go out of town to get some Ice Climbing in - Happy New Year Taco, see you Saturday at Baldy Bowl

Post by **Taco** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 10:20 pm

Aye Patrick!

obie · Post by **obie** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 12:37 pm

Excellent. Thanks for the cool photos.

Sometime you guys could post a photo of your gear layed out for viewing and ID what it is you're using?

Post by **Taco** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 1:14 pm

Yeah if you like. You mean everything including clothing?

obie · Post by **obie** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 4:27 pm

Taco wrote: Yeah if you like. You mean everything including clothing?

Yep. Ice/technical climbing has got to be hell on clothing so I'm figuring you guys are using bomber stuff out there.

Tho maybe this is hijacking your thread and I should go to 'Gear' and start looking through old stuff?

Post by **Taco** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 7:07 pm

Sure thing.

I don't mind one bit. I don't care if my own TR's go off-topic, and in this case it would still be on-topic.

I'll try to get some shots tomorrow of the general layout.