Ingrid and I had both attempted this route last year, so we went to try again. Made it in 16 hours car to car. I didn't really enjoy the route, as we did too much scrambling and only one belayed pitch of climbing. We descended the North face, which was awful, with 5th class downclimbing on loose rock and a rappel down the worst of it. We were both separated shortly before I had to rappel down, as we were on opposite sides of a minor spur of the NF.
Hi Taco,
Looked like we were in the same area yesterday. I was at Candlelight peak with my friends. I could have seen you in the distance. I will take a big binocular next time to spot your action on the wall of rock. The sheer exposure gives me a chill. I couldn't stand up the edge of Candlelight peak's north facing cliff. You guys has a nerve of steel.
Good work, Taco! I think the broad class 2 scree gully is a bit farther to the west; my friend, Aaron, took the same one you took and was also disgusted. You can literally run and skip down the scree gully, though.
Hamik, yeah we decided to head down the NF instead of moving to the easy terrain. Next time I'm gonna scree ski my heart out down the main trail or whatever I can.
When I'm a gajillionaire, I'm going to drive up there as fast as possible. Or, fly in an Mi-24 Hind. Hey, CHP, stop a Russian attack helicopter.