June 1 2010, Smiff Crag and THE ROAD IS OPEN YAY!

TRs for the San Gabriel Mountains.
Post Reply
User avatar
Taco
Snownado survivor
Posts: 6011
Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:35 pm

Post by Taco »

R39 open from the previous gate north of WF to Valley of the Moon! Huzzah!

"Johnny Bronson" and I went out to go do some ropework, and ended up climbing since they opened the road all nice and whatnot. Talked to a Cal Trans truckdriver operator dude up at the top gate, and he said it's open. They MIGHT open it to Crystal Lake by November. Let's hope.

Climbedededed at my old farting around area, which I used to call Smith Rock. It needs a new name. There is graffiti on it, with a swastika painted up high, so as a joke I thought "Swasticrag". ;-) (Keeping in mind the swastika has been in use in many countries for a very, very long time before the National Socialist party in Germany sullied it.)

Anyway, VERY excited that my backyard is open again. Lotsa cool stuff to do!

Some pics

Image
Base of the crag

Image
Old bolt with homemade aluminium hanger...

Image
...in a seam, no less. :lol:

Image
Bolt #2, two chain links.

Image
Someone was a big fan of glue.

Image
Rusty McGee here. Used these for aid anchors for a belay station.

Image
Und here ist der aid anchor, ja.

Image
Damn you, equalization.

Image
Image
Random glue in a crack.

Image
Johnny on the spot

Image
Here comes Johnny

Image
Smoke n' Joke

Image
2nd pitch, if you will. 1st pitch is all of 20ft or so, since it accesses the super mega hyper aid anchor station.

Image
#2 curve nut placement. Biner was positioned properly at one point.

Image
Nut placement on P3, which I backed off of due to lack of a decent anchor above.

Image
Up

Image
Image
Rapping off the awesome belay bush. Quadruple equalization!

Image
Slab

Image
Crag

Image
Hex fighting techniques. Excellent for fending off crag demons.

Image
My meager rack. Never sell most of your gear because you're in a rut. :-(
User avatar
Johnny Bronson
Posts: 179
Joined: Mon May 31, 2010 2:04 pm

Post by Johnny Bronson »

The glue and bolts were so elegantly placed,it was quite astonishing.
User avatar
Elwood
Posts: 612
Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2008 5:23 pm

Post by Elwood »

Excellent pictures and info. Looks like a lot of fun.
Post Reply