20081029 Falling Rock Canyon - Buttcrack

Post by **Taco** » Wed Oct 29, 2008 12:36 am

I was bored and had time off before work, so I went for a drive and climb.

Went up Buttcrack, a route Fritz put up a while ago which is a 5.6 or so. Fun route on typical rock. 8) Brought a bailout kit, which is just some cord, webbing for a harness, a couple biners, and a rap ring. Didn't use anything so just free solo'ed it as Fritz did on the FA.

Looking at the main ridge on the west side of Sheep Canyon

FRC Crag

Climbing

Heading over to the south end of the crag to inspect it for chopped bolts...

...two chopped bolts.

I don't know why they chopped them, as it's just a lone sport climb in the middle of nowhere. So very very few people climb around here that I don't see how anyone would get pissed at ethics over it. That, and it ain't exactly an easily protectable route.

Another cool section for next time.

Tree

Baldizzle

The squirting spring is a trickle now.

Looking at "Kimchi Ridge", as I call it, from the parking lot.

simonov · Post by **simonov** » Wed Oct 29, 2008 8:56 am

I don't know why they chopped them, as it's just a lone sport climb in the middle of nowhere. So very very few people climb around here that I don't see how anyone would get pissed at ethics over it. That, and it ain't exactly an easily protectable route.

Maybe Halhiker was up there and couldn't find any ducks to break up.

406 · Post by **406** » Wed Oct 29, 2008 9:36 am

cool nice stuff.

This one looks fun, about how tall?

Post by **Taco** » Wed Oct 29, 2008 3:03 pm

simonov wrote:
I don't know why they chopped them, as it's just a lone sport climb in the middle of nowhere. So very very few people climb around here that I don't see how anyone would get pissed at ethics over it. That, and it ain't exactly an easily protectable route.
Maybe Halhiker was up there and couldn't find any ducks to break up.

Something on the San G boards I reckon?

406, around 70 feet or so. It slants left, is probably 70-90 degrees. My pictures didn't come out so great as I wasn't using the camera right. It looked kinda cool.

JMunaretto · Post by **JMunaretto** » Wed Oct 29, 2008 4:12 pm

So do you use ropes on this stuff, or just helmet?

I'd look at it and say, oh I can just climb up with just a helmet, but I'm pretty dumb.

FIGHT ON · Post by **FIGHT ON** » Wed Oct 29, 2008 4:28 pm

simonov wrote:Maybe Halhiker was up there and couldn't find any ducks to break up.

Haven't heard from Ol' Hal lately. My guess is that he went on a hike, kicked all the ducks over as he went along and couldn't find his way back!

I would like to see him kick one of those bolts. The ones that are still in the rock. Real hard like!

simonov · Post by **simonov** » Wed Oct 29, 2008 5:02 pm

TacoDelRio wrote: Something on the San G boards I reckon?

San J board this time.

Post by **Taco** » Wed Oct 29, 2008 8:20 pm

Joseph, no helmet or rope, just a super small rack in case one has to rappel around an obstacle like a bad dryfall, which takes forever to downclimb (like last time).

A helmet is kinda useful in FRC.