TR: San Gorgonio Wilderness; South Fork to Dry Lake, Dollar Lake, 10K Ridge; July 2019

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jfr
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Post by jfr »

We backpacked up the South Fork Trail to Dry Lake and spent three nights there. This was our basecamp. On the second day we day-hiked to the summits of Ten Thousand Foot Ridge and Lake Peak. For our third day, we got adventurous and traversed cross-country to Dollar Lake, side-hilling along the northern slope of Charton Peak. And on the fourth day we hiked back out to the car.

This trip was our first visit to the South Fork Trail since the Lake Fire back in 2015, and we wanted to see just how badly the forest got burned.


Day 1: South Fork Trail to Dry Lake


Vicki and I arrived at the trailhead just after dawn on Wednesday July 3rd, and the parking lot was essentially empty. Just the way we like it. We put on our big backpacks and headed out. We had six miles to hike, and 2300 feet to climb.


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South Fork Trailhead signs with warnings about entering a burned area


The first part of the trail had been reconstructed due to some washouts along the creek, and it was a lot steeper than the original trail. At least it was short.


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Morning sun silhouettes on the burned pine trees


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There were zillions of wildflowers blooming amid the burned trees - those are Black Oaks regrowing from the roots


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Horse Meadow and its historic buildings were saved from the fire. We took a long break there.


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Burnt trees and a swampy trail


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Looking north, with burnt dead trees in the foreground


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The Classic View of San Gorgonio Mountain from Poop-Out Hill


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The trail crossed an avalanche path that led up toward Alto Diablo Peak


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Dead, burned pine tree silhouette with cirrus clouds


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This is where the trail crossed the South Fork of the Santa Ana River. (aka Slushy Meadows)


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After crossing the river, the Dry Lake Trail ascended via switchbacks on its way to the lake


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Panorama shot looking west toward Charlton Peak


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Panorama view of Dry Lake with a reflection of San Gorgonio Mountain


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Panorama shot with San Gorgonio Mountain, Jepson Peak and the two Charltons


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We found a secluded campsite in the Lodgepole Campground not far from the spring


We enjoyed a mellow evening. There were only a few people camping nearby that night, so it was peaceful. We were happy to see that Lodgepole Spring was running strong, and we filtered enough water for dinner, breakfast, and the next day's hike. We went to be early because we'd woken up at 2am and left San Diego at 4am in order to beat the LA traffic.


Day 2: Cross-Country hike to the summits of Ten Thousand Foot Ridge and Lake Peak


Back in 2014, before the Lake Fire, we tried this same exact trip, hiking in to Dry Lake so that we could bag Ten Thousand Foot Ridge, one of the few 10k peaks we hadn't climbed in SoCal. We hiked to the lake, but, sadly, there were big thunderstorms happening that weekend. Getting wet was fun on the way in, hiking all the way down in a protected valley, but we decided that standing on top of a mountain under those conditions was madness. So we aborted the trip the next day.

I had planned a return the next year, in 2015, but the Lake Fire began a week or so before that, and our hopes of bagging the peak were dashed for the foreseeable future. I knew that the powers that be (in the NFS) would do their usual knee-jerk response and close the forest for five years. It seems so stupid to me. How could a few hikers possibly do anything to harm a dead forest? The danger of human touch seems vanishingly small by comparison to the pure, unbridled destruction of a wildire. But some mindsets cannot be changed by reason or logic, and so they close the forest for years, and let the trails revert to the wilderness.

OK, enough ranting about this. At least it's open now, in less than five years (thanks in large part to the awesome San Gorgonio Wilderness Association volunteers!), and we were able to bag the peak this time. Hooray!


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I carried Vicki's pack as our daypack - ready to hike with the ten essentials. Plus lunch!


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Lodgepole Spring as it flowed toward Dry Lake before sinking back into the sand


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We hiked up the old trail to Fish Creek Saddle


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The campground at Fish Creek Saddle


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We headed east from the saddle, cross-country through burned terrain toward Fish Creek Peak


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View of Grinnell Mountain from the ridge


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Vicki found a wooden contraption on the summit of Fish Creek Peak (Peak 9942)


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Ten Thousand Foot Ridge (Peak 10094) just ahead of us


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It was steep and rocky as we climbed the use trail to the top


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The summit of Ten Thousand Foot Ridge and the register box


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Panorama view west from the summit


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View south to San Jacinto Peak


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Vicki and I ate lunch in the shade on the northern slope. She cooled her feet on a patch of residual snow


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We carefully descended the steep slope from the summit


We hiked along the top of the ridge this time, headed west toward Lake Peak. Apparently, some folks from the Sierra Club left a number of small ducks to mark the trail. They helped, I guess, but it wasn't that hard to figure out, namely: Stay on the ridge.


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The Lake Fire burned most of the upper region of Lake Peak


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We took a break in the shade of an unburnt pine just below the summit


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Panorama view northwest from the summit of Lake Peak, with Dry Lake down below


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Zoomed-in shot of Dry Lake (not so dry)


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A happy Vicki on the summit of Lake Peak


After that, we descended steeply on an angle back to Fish Creek Saddle, then headed down the use trail to Lodgepole Camp. We ate some dinner and took an after-dinner constitutional down to the lake.


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Evening panorama shot of Dry Lake with plenty of glare from the setting sun



Day 3: The Dry-Dollar Traverse


We foolishly decided to traverse to Dollar Lake from Dry Lake by staying at 9000 feet elevation (or so) the entire way. We saw this cross-country route on Hikin' Jim's awesome San Gorgonio CalTopo Map, and thought that it might save us from hiking all those extra miles on the main trails, and also from dropping down to 8200 feet along the way. The direct route was only two miles, rather than five, so it had to be better. Right? Right? Wrong. It was the shortcut from hell, and it took us five hours to get to Dollar Lake. On the way back, we wisely chose the main trails and it only took us three and a half hours. All in all, it was tough, but I'm still glad that we took the crazy route.


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It's a new day and Vicki put her "I Climbed the Nine Peaks" patch onto her hat


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We climbed up onto the jumbled granite boulders to the west of Dry Lake


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San Gorgonio Mountain and Jepson Peak from the high, boulder-studded plateau west of Dry Lake


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A flat flood plain on the plateau. Easy hiking. For less than five minutes.


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We think that these might be Mountain Lion tracks


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Hiking was slow across the boulder-strewn moraine on the Dry-Dollar Traverse


This area was supposedly under the influence of a glacier situated on the northern slope of San Gorgonio Mountain during the last Ice Age. These piles of rocks are evidence of the glacier advancing and retreating a number of times during that period. Hikin' Jim calls this area the "Glacial Chop Country."


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We took a break before the first deep cleft we had to cross.


I checked the map but we didn't have much choice. Except to climb higher to a flatter area, but Vicki didn't like that idea at all. The whole point of this entire crazy hike was to stay at the same elevation, wasn't it? So we dropped a bit into the two big clefts and climbed back out. After that, we'd simply be hiking along the north slope of Charton Peak. How hard could that be? Well, we'd soon find out.


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Side-hilling on the steep slope below Charlton Peak. This got old real quick.


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One of several Avalanche Chutes on the slope - and we had to cross them all!


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Good thing Vicki was wearing her bushwhacking leg covers as she climbed up into the chinquapin bushes


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View down into the biggest avalanche chute


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This section on the north side of Charlton Peak burned so much that even the rocks look burned


Eventually, of course, the traverse ended. We arrived at Dollar Lake. Vicki was totally whupped. We sat down under a tree and ate our lunch, then Vicki took a well-deserved nap. I took out the GPS and checked it out. We had hiked 2.3 miles and it had taken us almost five hours. This wasn't an unheard of speed for difficult bushwhacking, but it certainly wasn't great either. I also decided that there was no way we were going to hike back the way we came. Vicki would have to bite the bullet and take the trail with all its elevation losses and gains. It's the mountains. They go up and down. That's what they do. Trying to stay flat in the mountains is just asking for a heartache.


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Our first view of Dollar Lake, which still had water


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View north over Dollar Lake with the old campground on the left


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The old Dollar Lake Campground - beautiful spot, but the signs all say No Camping


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Me at the trail junction - Dollar Lake to the left, Dollar Lake Saddle to the right


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Looking back at the Dry-Dollar Traverse Route that we had done that morning - a tough hike!

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San Gorgonio Mountain in the distance as we descend on the Dollar Lake Trail


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Now it's time to cross the South Fork and head uphill on the Dry Lake Trail


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We passed a happy face drawn on the end of a sawn-off log on the Dry Lake Trail


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Panorama view of Charlton Peak on a hazy afternoon from the Dry Lake Trail


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San Gorgonio Mountain reflecting in Dry Lake


We finally made it back to camp, after a very long and exhausting day. Cross-country hiking is not for the timid!


Day 4: We packed up our gear and headed back out to the South Fork Trailhead


I had expected that the campgrounds would be packed with people, considering that it was the Fourth of July Weekend, but there really weren't all that many folks out there. Maybe it was because the fourth was a Thursday. And we were leaving on a Saturday. Maybe everyone would arrive as we left! But we never passed crowds of backpackers as we hiked back out. Just day-hikers enjoying the wildflowers.


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We packed up our gear and Vicki was ready to head back home. Three nights was long enough.


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Early morning panorama over Dry Lake with San Gorgonio Mountain, plus Jepson, Little Charlton, and Charlton Peaks


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The Dry Lake to Dollar Lake Traverse goes from left to right, with Dollar Lake Saddle the low spot on the right


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We took the trail down through all the dead trees from the Lake Fire


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It was hot and all we wanted to do was get back to the car, but we had to keep on hiking


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We took a boot-off break on the picnic table under the patio of the old cabin in Horse Meadows


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It was just past noon and we were already back at the car


It had been a remarkably fast downhill hike from Dry Lake - and it was definitely time to go home. We'd had a lot of fun, but we could feel our soft bed calling. And better food, too! But not until after a good hot shower. Like the old saying goes: Fish and Backpackers stink after three days.



The rest of the trip's photos and videos can be found on my Flickr Album Page.

For an interactive topographic map of our hike, including exportable GPS Tracks, please see my CalTopo Page.


Happy Hiking!


.
My hiking trip reports: https://hikingtales.com/
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Girl Hiker
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Post by Girl Hiker »

What an awesome journey. Glad that you both made it out safely and you still had smiles on your faces after returning to your car. I love the pics. I still need to knock off quite a few peaks in that area. I have conquered Grinnell mountain with Sean years ago and that was a great day hiking in the snow.
"Never limit yourself to what you can do!"
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headsizeburrito
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Post by headsizeburrito »

Great report and photos, looks like a lovely trip!
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JeffH
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Post by JeffH »

Thanks for this, I always enjoy reading your trip reports. Great line in here about mountains go up and down. I’ll try to remember it next time I complain about giving up elevation (which is every time).
"Argue for your limitations and sure enough they're yours".
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Ellen
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Post by Ellen »

Howdy Jeff and Vickie ?

Thanks for your (always fabulous) TR.

Sally, Marilyn and I can totally relate to your XC route from Dry Lake to Dollar Lake. Sally calls HJ's Glacial Chop Country Chaos. My description is much less kind ? (insert profanity here). Even in snow, "moraine land," is a nightmare slog.

Hope to see you on a trail soon.

Miles of smiles,
Ellen
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tekewin
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Post by tekewin »

So sweet! Those definitely look like lion prints to me.
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fredmcain
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Post by fredmcain »

I have some questions. First of all, when was this Lake Fire?
Secondly, did you see any tree seedlings sprouting?
Regards,
Fred M. Cain
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jfr
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Post by jfr »

Thanks for the kind words, everyone! It was a fun trip, and I always have fun writing trip reports, so it's Win-Win...

Jeff: Thanks for reminding me about my line: "It's the mountains. They go up and down. That's what they do. Trying to stay flat in the mountains is just asking for a heartache." I've decided to use it on my wife when we hike from now on. I predict that this may backfire on me.

Fred: Be more careful using the "quote" feature next time. ?
But as for your questions, the Lake Fire started in June 2015 near Jenks Lake. See this article for details. There were very few new pine sprouts growing, sadly. I think most of the pinecones burned completely when the crowns of the trees burned. The oaks, however, were re-sprouting from their roots, which didn't die. And the buckthorn and chinquapin bushes are growing once again.


Anyway, sorry for the late replies - I just spent the last week backpacking in the High Sierra. But I have another trip next week, and yet another big one in early September, so no trip reports from me for quite a while, I'm sad to say. It'll take me weeks and weeks just to go through all the photos. It's a tough life, but somebody has to live it!
My hiking trip reports: https://hikingtales.com/
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Sean
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Post by Sean »

Thanks! Very beautiful trip. I need to get up to the 10k ridge one of these days.
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