Sometime in the winter (early winter), probably about a week or two post-major snowfall, I want to give this a shot. I'd like to climb East Twin of Twin Peaks via the eastern ridge that drops down into Upper Bear Creek. I'm hoping for some mixed climbing, not in the hard sport sense but just snow, ice, and rock mixed.
An alternative being to hike up through the canyon to the south buttress that heads direct south towards Pine Mountain (4539).
Any ideas? I always come up with zero replies in other forums. Twin Peaks is really ignored for the most part, but IMHO it's the most beautiful peak we have here, and has so many climbing opportunities.
Twin Peaks - Hard Routes
Looking down on the East Ridge from East Twin a couple of years ago made me curious so I did a bit of research. Came across these Sierra Club reports (1,2) about an attempt at reaching Triplet Rocks (which is along the ridge). Just throwing this out there in case you hadn't seen it before. After reading their description it sure looks like your trip would be quite the adventure. Best of luck.
Edit: I also remember seeing an outdoors club report involving Augie and Travis.
Edit: I also remember seeing an outdoors club report involving Augie and Travis.
From the above links:
Not trying to dissuade you, but impressed by the rep of this mtn.
The climbers mentioned are "Bob," Asher Waxman, and Erik Siering. I don't know who "Bob" is, but Asher and Eric are incredible climbers. I believe Erik is the one who pioneered the San Gorgonio 17 peaks loop that inspired Rick K to do his incredible marathon. If Erik calls this hike hard, it's seriously hard.Triplet Rocks is probably the most remote and difficult peak in the San Gabs ... tougher than Big Iron ...
Not trying to dissuade you, but impressed by the rep of this mtn.
Here's the link to Erik's trip: http://angeles.sierraclub.org/hps/archives/hps01306.htm
I was a little off. He did the 17 peaks as a traverse from Fish Creek TH to Angelus Oaks. Rick K did him one better by making it into a loop. Still, anyone who can do all 17 SGW peaks in one day is pretty much an animal.
I was a little off. He did the 17 peaks as a traverse from Fish Creek TH to Angelus Oaks. Rick K did him one better by making it into a loop. Still, anyone who can do all 17 SGW peaks in one day is pretty much an animal.
Thanks Hikeup! I saw those before, scouring (spelling?) the int4rw3bz for all info on TP's.
My stance on this is that I can't get any info I really want (beta), so it's best just to go. I'm kinda sick of researching the living hell out of everything I climb, and then I get there and it's easy as hell. know what I mean?
That in mind, I hope to go, preferably with a few folks, and just wing-it, adventure style, as it should be. I want to walk as little as possible and climb as often as possible.
Parking at Valley of the Moon near Smith Mtn, hiking to Bear Creek, and bam.
Any takers?
My stance on this is that I can't get any info I really want (beta), so it's best just to go. I'm kinda sick of researching the living hell out of everything I climb, and then I get there and it's easy as hell. know what I mean?
That in mind, I hope to go, preferably with a few folks, and just wing-it, adventure style, as it should be. I want to walk as little as possible and climb as often as possible.
Parking at Valley of the Moon near Smith Mtn, hiking to Bear Creek, and bam.
Any takers?
Are talking about climbing up, past the Triplets and on up to Twin Peak? As you know, I was on an ODC exploratory hike to the Triplets. The trek to Twin Peaks was significant and most people did not make it down the ridge. Me and one other guy made it the farthest down the ridge towards triplets, I figure we only went 1/3 of the way from Twin to Triplet. We climbed some exposed stuff, but nothnig more than 3rd class. However, the point at which we turned around presented some serious rock climbing, at least 4th class IMO. Once at the top of Twin Peaks would you head back down or have a car shuttle?
Here is my Google Earth Track of our Trek:
http://www.gpsmountaineering.com/TwinPeakandBeyond.kmz
Here is my Google Earth Track of our Trek:
http://www.gpsmountaineering.com/TwinPeakandBeyond.kmz
I agree...too much research, not enough adventure!TacoDelRio wrote:I'm kinda sick of researching the living hell out of everything I climb, and then I get there and it's easy as hell. know what I mean?
...
Any takers?
I look forward to your TR, cause I'm not a taker on this one
. Have fun.I figure I am game to go up the east ridge as far as Triplet Rocks then turn back the way we came, going all the way up and over Twin Peaks looks to be too much of an epic for me at this time, when are you thinking?TacoDelRio wrote:
Travis, I'm not sure about how to get back. Since R39 is closed, I cna't exactly stash a bike in good time. So, good question...
For what it's worth, beta = info.
My new plan is just to take it as it comes, and descend either via the same way I came up, or better yet, head down from the saddle of TP down into the creek and head home that way. Or, hike back down from R39 to my truck, a favorite pasttime of mine, apparently.
Travis, dunno when... I'm thinking a week or so after we get snow. I want the snow to be hard enough, preferably ice, but I don't know how far I'm pushing the weather gods for that. I figure whenever it's in, hopefully I can go.
My new plan is just to take it as it comes, and descend either via the same way I came up, or better yet, head down from the saddle of TP down into the creek and head home that way. Or, hike back down from R39 to my truck, a favorite pasttime of mine, apparently.
Travis, dunno when... I'm thinking a week or so after we get snow. I want the snow to be hard enough, preferably ice, but I don't know how far I'm pushing the weather gods for that. I figure whenever it's in, hopefully I can go.
I think I'm gonna give this one a shot, for Thursday-Friday, assuming the weather holds. I'm thinking of arriving at the parking place at Valley of the Moon (end of R39) around 0230 (in the morning), hiking to Bear Creek (5.6 miles on T. Harrison map), then beginning from there.
-Primary Goal: Triplet Rocks from the south
-Secondary Goal: East Twin
Bringing rapp gear, just in case.
Should be back by late Friday night. If not back by Sunday, there is a problem.
I should remember to say whether I'm going or not before I leave tomorrow.
Blah blah blah.
-Primary Goal: Triplet Rocks from the south
-Secondary Goal: East Twin
Bringing rapp gear, just in case.
Should be back by late Friday night. If not back by Sunday, there is a problem.
I should remember to say whether I'm going or not before I leave tomorrow.
Blah blah blah.
The route up is one of a few tributaries I have marked on my maps. I hope something looks good when I get there, then I'll just pick whatever looks safest, probably handrailing a creek to avoid waterfalls, get on the ridge proper, and begin the bushwhack 'til above the "oak-line".
I hope this works out. Getting to Triplet from the creek is the mental crux at the moment.
I hope this works out. Getting to Triplet from the creek is the mental crux at the moment.
Pics:
Lines from Travis's trip. My marker of Triplets is on a prominent set of rocks, dunno the name since Travis has marked Triplets to the West.
Green line showing where I reckon I'll end up going up. "T" in red is what I think is Triplet Rocks, or something. I couldn't tell ya yet. I'll leave a notepad on Triplet if none such thing remains.
There are a few prominent rock formations that look like "Triplet Rocks" along the ridge, so I'm slightly confused as to which is Triplet Rocks, and which is "just another pile of rocks".
Lines from Travis's trip. My marker of Triplets is on a prominent set of rocks, dunno the name since Travis has marked Triplets to the West.
Green line showing where I reckon I'll end up going up. "T" in red is what I think is Triplet Rocks, or something. I couldn't tell ya yet. I'll leave a notepad on Triplet if none such thing remains.
There are a few prominent rock formations that look like "Triplet Rocks" along the ridge, so I'm slightly confused as to which is Triplet Rocks, and which is "just another pile of rocks".
As I understand it, Triplet Rocks is off to the left,downhill of your photo...yellow arrow is Triplet, red arrow was your arrow....
The lower part as viewed from Hwy 39(again yellow arrow)
Looks so close, but I guess thats the problem...steep&rugged terrrain.
The lower part as viewed from Hwy 39(again yellow arrow)
Looks so close, but I guess thats the problem...steep&rugged terrrain.
Hopefully some snow! I figured conditions would be best ASAP, before all the good stuff melts away.
I'd like to go as a lightweight daytrip as well. Sunday would be nice, starting really early in the morning and bookin' it to Bear Canyon past Smith Mountain and whatnot, though I've never been past Smith on that trail so I can't tell what the conditions are like. Last time we were both there was the last time I saw the immediate area.
I'm up for it! Would 110% prefer to go with you or anyone else than to go alone.
I'd like to go as a lightweight daytrip as well. Sunday would be nice, starting really early in the morning and bookin' it to Bear Canyon past Smith Mountain and whatnot, though I've never been past Smith on that trail so I can't tell what the conditions are like. Last time we were both there was the last time I saw the immediate area.
I'm up for it! Would 110% prefer to go with you or anyone else than to go alone.
Dunno if this has been posted yet: http://www.rockclimbing.org/tripreports ... firsts.htm
Looking to do some stuff around Twin Peaks whenever, though my laziness will probably continue to get the best of me, unless someone wants to come along... 8)
Looking to do some stuff around Twin Peaks whenever, though my laziness will probably continue to get the best of me, unless someone wants to come along... 8)
Thanks for the photos....ascending to Triplet Rocks is one ambitious hike.
I have been musing a route from the West Fork SG river.....
Google...start of Travis route in red.
No matter which way its done this one will fight back. The benefits from the West Fork is a downhill return along the established bear creek trail, although that trail is significantly more challenging than the BTN/East fork hike....The biggest negative is not being able to see much after leaving bear creek. Starting towards Twin Peaks starts easy though(tributary is quite distinct as the only way to exit the canyon until that point).
I have been musing a route from the West Fork SG river.....
Google...start of Travis route in red.
No matter which way its done this one will fight back. The benefits from the West Fork is a downhill return along the established bear creek trail, although that trail is significantly more challenging than the BTN/East fork hike....The biggest negative is not being able to see much after leaving bear creek. Starting towards Twin Peaks starts easy though(tributary is quite distinct as the only way to exit the canyon until that point).
Just to add the note here as in my TR, my route is like a brute force way to gain Triplet through some canyoneering terrain. I had said in my TR that I didnt see the approach per Travis, but looking at the topo, I did see the 2 ways up just downstream of where the approach started(which BTW is just a cliff). The creek approach was a boulder wash with a minor seasonal flow of water, however on Google there seemed to be a huge drop ahead(from the ground it appeared that way as well). The other one just downstream was a little brushy hillside approach with one steeeppp section. Brush on the canyon rim was moderate, but at higher elevations, dense.
Anyways might want to try further upstream and stay away from the ridge that approach outlined. And of course, Triplet might not be obtainable after all near the top.
Anyways might want to try further upstream and stay away from the ridge that approach outlined. And of course, Triplet might not be obtainable after all near the top.
Last time I was down in Bear Canyon (5 years ago?) where the trail drops in from 39 via the saddle by Smith Mtn, there was a lot of poison oak. Bring your TechNu. 
Late winter/early spring (April) would probably be best for this one, I would think. Chaparral gets really hot in the sun. May could go either way, and June gloom is hard to predict. Forget about it in July.
Late winter/early spring (April) would probably be best for this one, I would think. Chaparral gets really hot in the sun. May could go either way, and June gloom is hard to predict. Forget about it in July.