This is a list I compiled with info from the last couple of years, checking areas out, doing some climbing. mostly lines I saw while doing somethign else, where I thought "Hey, that looks cool".
The benefit of this forum is that everyone is focused on the San Gabriels, and can share information, stories, beta, info, everything.
Here is a link to the list: http://www.summitpost.org/list/336954/T ... -List.html
Questions:
-Has anyone tried to climb Mt Harwood's Northeast Face? It's pretty big, looks challenging.
-Has anyone here tried any of the routes?
I hope to gather as much information as possible to enhance the list. If anyone has any other lines or routes they've seen or thought of, please add them.
(Sorry if some of this is confusing or messed up, I cna't think straight right now)
Possible Winter Climbing Routes
Anything south-facing is early season. I should work on the list so it's a bit better. I don't have everything on there yet.
As for conditions, I guess wait a few days to a week, and anythign south-facing not on a ridge should be good to go.
North facing stuff lasts a long time, minus ridges.
Ones that come to mind for early ascents:
-Thunder Ridge - Ridge running from Thunder Mtn to Icehouse Canyon
-Harwood Ridge - Ridge from NE Face down to Stoddard Flat
-Telegraph Peak - South Face
-Telegraph Peak - Northeast Face again. Last ascent was very dangerous because of conditions.
Most of the stuff around icehouse Canyon is a spend 2-3 days there kinda deal, where you tag routes. Or so I hope. I'll probably get ANOTHER ticket because they kinda can't see my pass on the back of my bright red truck...
As for conditions, I guess wait a few days to a week, and anythign south-facing not on a ridge should be good to go.
North facing stuff lasts a long time, minus ridges.
Ones that come to mind for early ascents:
-Thunder Ridge - Ridge running from Thunder Mtn to Icehouse Canyon
-Harwood Ridge - Ridge from NE Face down to Stoddard Flat
-Telegraph Peak - South Face
-Telegraph Peak - Northeast Face again. Last ascent was very dangerous because of conditions.
Most of the stuff around icehouse Canyon is a spend 2-3 days there kinda deal, where you tag routes. Or so I hope. I'll probably get ANOTHER ticket because they kinda can't see my pass on the back of my bright red truck...
When good conditions exist, my favorite winter routes are:
North Ridge Pine Mountain via Acorn Trail from Wrightwood and then on to Dawson, Baldy, via the Old Backbone.
Register Ridge - Baldy
I know it's not San Gabriel's but Jepson Bowl and the North Ridge on Jepson are killer. Any of the North facing chutes on Galena Peak. And then there is Snow Creek - San J., by far one of the best winter climbing routes with nearly 10,000 vertical feet of gain. Nothing can compare to Snow Creek.
North Ridge Pine Mountain via Acorn Trail from Wrightwood and then on to Dawson, Baldy, via the Old Backbone.
Register Ridge - Baldy
I know it's not San Gabriel's but Jepson Bowl and the North Ridge on Jepson are killer. Any of the North facing chutes on Galena Peak. And then there is Snow Creek - San J., by far one of the best winter climbing routes with nearly 10,000 vertical feet of gain. Nothing can compare to Snow Creek.
I'd like to go up Snow Creek with someone, so we can properly avoid the guard station.
When I was in Jepson Bowl, the north ridge caught my eye. The bowl looks cool, but the ridge just looks like something I'd love.
I did Register Ridge in the summer, so I may use it as my default route to Baldy in the winter, to get me into better shape.
How'd you and Miguel like Galena Peak's NF? It's on my list (not online).
When I was in Jepson Bowl, the north ridge caught my eye. The bowl looks cool, but the ridge just looks like something I'd love.
I did Register Ridge in the summer, so I may use it as my default route to Baldy in the winter, to get me into better shape.
How'd you and Miguel like Galena Peak's NF? It's on my list (not online).
Galena Peak North Chutes are freekin steep and narrow. Loose rock. Not huge in comparrison to many Sierra chutes, but very steep towards the top. I remember using a large tree root to pull myself over the last few feet at the top......which were vertical.
Snow Creek is on Miguel's tick list again this season. If it shapes up than I'll probibly join him (if I can get into better shape). Hit him up, I'm sure he'd enjoy the company.
Miguel is a great climbing partner. We go back 6 years after meeting on SummitPost. I've climbed in South America and Mexico with him several times. As well as many Sierra climbs, and in Washington, Oregon and Northern CA.
Okay, enough Non-San Gabriel Mountain related stuff. Back to the original topic............
Snow Creek is on Miguel's tick list again this season. If it shapes up than I'll probibly join him (if I can get into better shape). Hit him up, I'm sure he'd enjoy the company.
Miguel is a great climbing partner. We go back 6 years after meeting on SummitPost. I've climbed in South America and Mexico with him several times. As well as many Sierra climbs, and in Washington, Oregon and Northern CA.
Okay, enough Non-San Gabriel Mountain related stuff. Back to the original topic............
one of my favorite outings was heading out during one of our rare but massive winter storms. sometimes the road was closed before red box because it was so bad. but no worries... we would go to the strawberry peak trailhead at the bottom of the hill just after switzers (sp?). it got kinda epic sometimes. if you want a work out and dont mind a little extra effort, stawberry peak in full on winter conditons is a must.
I almost always stick to the eastern San Gabriels and the Iron Mountain area during winter, since it's close.-=TELEGRAPH PEAK SOUTH SIDE ROUTES=-
These routes should only be in-condition for awhile. I plan on starting in Icehouse Canyon and climbing 1-2 in a day, maybe spend the night on the south summit of Telegraph, perhaps do another in the morning.
Overview:
Green is Lefthand Couloir, red is Telegraph Wash (unlikely), and blue is Righthand couloir (very steep and loose higher up). Names left and righthand are for this list's purpose only, as I am unaware of any possible official name for them.
Righthand Couloir:
*No pic yet*
Further up Icehouse Canyon, have not seen much of this couloir. Looks to be very steep with more hazards than the other routes, save for exposure.
Lefthand Couloir:
An impressive, narrow and exposed couloir that veers left from the Telegraph Wash debris zone, and handrails/parallels the southwest ridgeline towards Telegraph's south summit. From what I could see within Icehouse, this looks to be a more stable route than Telegraph Wash. Have not yet visited end of route; am unsure of conditions there. (Part of the fun)
More pictures:
Telegraph Wash:
Talus/scree. Gave it a shot last year, but it was all powder. Looks to be a very straightforward, simple snow climb. Steepens towards the top, but appears to offer many escape options. Not much to say here. I don't feel this route will happen.
West Face Couloir (easily spotted from other peaks):
This route will likely start near Cedar Glen, ascending directly to the western side of the southern summit. SHould be the most flexible of the limbs on this half of the mountain, as I imagine the snow would be hard enough to support climbing a steep gradient for a longer period of time. Timing this to be completed by sunset would be incredibly beautiful. 8)
-=CUCAMONGA/ONTARIO PEAK AREA=-
Don't have my stuff together yet on this, so just ideas/plans...
-Ontario Peak Massif "Full-Traverse"
Idea being to start near Barrett-Stoddard Road, and climb up the ridge, reaching every false summit on the massif/mountain, probably descending Bighorn into Icehouse, or simply retracing steps back.
-Cucamonga Peak South Face Smith Ridge
One of the primary ridges heading to the summit from the south. Has been done numerous times by locals. Should start at fire road (something like 4,500ft... I know I know), so not so much elevation gain, but less walking below the "cow-line".
-Cucamonga Peak South Face Couloirs
Multiple large gullies and couloirs leading ot the summit. Really dicey with rockfall, probably. Operative word is "Dunno".
More later...
These routes should only be in-condition for awhile. I plan on starting in Icehouse Canyon and climbing 1-2 in a day, maybe spend the night on the south summit of Telegraph, perhaps do another in the morning.
Overview:
Green is Lefthand Couloir, red is Telegraph Wash (unlikely), and blue is Righthand couloir (very steep and loose higher up). Names left and righthand are for this list's purpose only, as I am unaware of any possible official name for them.
Righthand Couloir:
*No pic yet*
Further up Icehouse Canyon, have not seen much of this couloir. Looks to be very steep with more hazards than the other routes, save for exposure.
Lefthand Couloir:
An impressive, narrow and exposed couloir that veers left from the Telegraph Wash debris zone, and handrails/parallels the southwest ridgeline towards Telegraph's south summit. From what I could see within Icehouse, this looks to be a more stable route than Telegraph Wash. Have not yet visited end of route; am unsure of conditions there. (Part of the fun)
More pictures:
Telegraph Wash:
Talus/scree. Gave it a shot last year, but it was all powder. Looks to be a very straightforward, simple snow climb. Steepens towards the top, but appears to offer many escape options. Not much to say here. I don't feel this route will happen.
West Face Couloir (easily spotted from other peaks):
This route will likely start near Cedar Glen, ascending directly to the western side of the southern summit. SHould be the most flexible of the limbs on this half of the mountain, as I imagine the snow would be hard enough to support climbing a steep gradient for a longer period of time. Timing this to be completed by sunset would be incredibly beautiful. 8)
-=CUCAMONGA/ONTARIO PEAK AREA=-
Don't have my stuff together yet on this, so just ideas/plans...
-Ontario Peak Massif "Full-Traverse"
Idea being to start near Barrett-Stoddard Road, and climb up the ridge, reaching every false summit on the massif/mountain, probably descending Bighorn into Icehouse, or simply retracing steps back.
-Cucamonga Peak South Face Smith Ridge
One of the primary ridges heading to the summit from the south. Has been done numerous times by locals. Should start at fire road (something like 4,500ft... I know I know), so not so much elevation gain, but less walking below the "cow-line".
-Cucamonga Peak South Face Couloirs
Multiple large gullies and couloirs leading ot the summit. Really dicey with rockfall, probably. Operative word is "Dunno".
More later...
There is most excellent skiing to be had... in condition of course. Many people also get complacent about avalanche danger too, considering the proximity to one of the largest metropolitan areas in the world. But for the less foolish folks, awesome times to be had.
Sounds like you are going to have some great trips tacodelrio.
Sounds like you are going to have some great trips tacodelrio.
That can be debated.x15x15 wrote:There is most excellent skiing to be had... in condition of course. Many people also get complacent about avalanche danger too, considering the proximity to one of the largest metropolitan areas in the world. But for the less foolish folks, awesome times to be had.
Sounds like you are going to have some great trips tacodelrio.
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Maxwell's Demon
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 7:26 pm
Looks like fun. Are you doing all of these with a single ice axe or two?
Hey, Taco, thought you might find this post interesting. I think may you already know most of the areas he's talking about, but ...
http://www.palm-springs-photography.com ... .php?t=734
http://www.palm-springs-photography.com ... .php?t=734
I saw that. I've not encountered much ice before up there.Hikin_Jim wrote:Hey, Taco, thought you might find this post interesting. I think may you already know most of the areas he's talking about, but ...
http://www.palm-springs-photography.com ... .php?t=734
Rick, if you're reading this, give us a hollar!
I don't know what it looked like this winter (moved from Ontario to Hesperia) but in descending the big "couloir" on Cucamonga Peak's south face years back we triggered one of those avalanches so common in our mountains...heavy snow that flows about 20 miles an hour following the gullies down. We actually did a lot of standing glissading/running down it and noticed piles of snow behind us sliding. Pretty soon we were in a 20' wide x 200' long slide with us riding high on top. After several hundred feet of this we found ourselves "sinking" into the flow and started swimming to keep from being buried. When we finally stopped, I had one arm and my head above the now turning into hard "concrete" snow! It took forever to excavate my self out and found I had lost sun glasses and the snow saw off my pack.
We had hitch hiked up to Ice House canyon and were going to hike out to Alta Loma. The hike down after leaving the snow was just awful on loose rock and dirt...isn't snow and ice wonderful?
We had hitch hiked up to Ice House canyon and were going to hike out to Alta Loma. The hike down after leaving the snow was just awful on loose rock and dirt...isn't snow and ice wonderful?
