20071212 Telegraph Peak West Face Attempt

Post by **Taco** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 7:24 pm

Made an attempt on a beautiful line up the West Face of this fantastic peak this Wednesday, in perfect, if warm, weather.

http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/3 ... tempt.html

Bottom line, too early. Need to wait for just the right day when most snow has melted. THe avalanche debris was more unsafe than it was a hassle.

Rob · Post by **Rob** » Thu Dec 13, 2007 9:35 am

Taco, thank you for allowing me a vicarious experience.

Concerning couloirs, Wikipedia says, "These physical features are popular with both skiers and climbers, requiring both stamina and skill, and are possibly fatal if either is lacking."

simonov · Post by **simonov** » Thu Dec 13, 2007 9:56 am

Thanks for that.

I'm walking up Icehouse Canyon on Sunday and yesterday called the Visitors Center to ask about conditions. I've been noticing the warmer temps this week and the nice lady on the phone said things are changing so fast, I should really call on Saturday to get better information.

I'd rather not use crampons, but it looks like I will need to bring them along no matter what, at least for the higher elevations that ice up at night.

Just test-fitted my gaiters this morning. I think I last used them in 1990. Whoa.

Post by **Taco** » Thu Dec 13, 2007 10:29 am

Thanks guys.

Rob, the big thing with couloirs here after you've trained is a helmet, luck, and hopefully some warm weather in the days prior to climbing on a cold day. Or something. Lotsa crap falling down them.

AW~ · Post by **AW~** » Thu Dec 13, 2007 6:42 pm

Even though I am not much of a moutaineer, I appreciate this info as it gives nice detail(and pictures) of our mountains. Speaking of couloirs, isnt what makes them dangerous an avalance?...not sure how stamina and skill play into that.

Post by **Taco** » Thu Dec 13, 2007 8:20 pm

AW wrote:Even though I am not much of a moutaineer, I appreciate this info as it gives nice detail(and pictures) of our mountains. Speaking of couloirs, isnt what makes them dangerous an avalance?...not sure how stamina and skill play into that.

Thanks.

Couloirs are the garbage chutes of mountains. They serve the mountain by being the first place for rockfall and avalanche to come streaming down after a storm, and they serve climbers a little later in the season by holding ice in shaded areas, allowing a path to the top.

Stamina, I guess for the amount of frontpointing one does? Some folks aren't as used to it as they are to flatfooting (French technique). Skill IMHO lies in determining the conditions to be safe or unsafe and proceeding as desired.

They're not always very safe. but, I don't climb to be super safe, not that anyone doesn't try to minimize risk.

Or something.