EISPIRATEN

I did a loop hike today from Mill Creek Summit up the road to Pacifico, then down the PCT. It was delightful despite the heat advisory (actually I had something to prove in the heat). The whole summit smelled of pine. Anyway, there is a lot of info around on the hike itself so I wanted to focus in on the highest summit block. Bob Burd rated it class 3, but Summitpost and most people rate it class 4. It's hard to tell from photos, so I brought a rope just in case. I am pretty conservative with YDS ratings, but when I first looked at it, I thought maybe Bob was right. There were a few clear holds. But after I got up on it, I changed my mind. I didn't want to make the crux move without protection. I came down and unpacked the rope and gear. After slinging it over the top, I anchored it to a pine tree with some girth. I protected myself with two prusiks and got back on the rock. I didn't use the rope as aid, only protection. I couldn't find an acceptable place for my right foot in the orange area, so I switched to my left foot for the friction move. Once I got the third hold, the rest was easy. I also looked at going right from #2, but that had the same foothold problem. After taking a few photos, I rappelled down the main block and the one in front of it. I know many people have climbed it without protection, but I was glad I brought the rope.


Three key holds in blue, missing foothold in orange

I agree. It's class 4.