20140509 Smith Mtn North Face 'Attempt'
Posted: Fri May 09, 2014 11:46 pm
You guys convinced me to write more trip reports. I normally would've left this out.
I've been glancing at the rock face above Lost Canyon for a long time, wondering if it would be fun to climb it. I never really seriously attempted it, but I've made a few trips since I first saw it checking out how I'd approach it. I've been partway up Lost Canyon, up to within a short distance of the top of that face once while canyoneering, and up the southeast ridge firebreak.
I planned to climb it this week, as another small step on my way to getting good at living with a Silent Partner (solo-belay device). Solo leading is usually more challenging than regular leading, as you must take more things into consideration. The more time I spend on a system, the more comfortable I get with it. I had been soloing with a modified Grigri and a chest harness before, but if the tension in the system isn't just right, it becomes a real pain to use. The SP is very very smooth, and is the easiest method of lead-soloing I've used. I have some rather long climbs planned that I will be attempting alone, so the better I get with the SP leading free climbing pitches in new terrain with anchor challenges, the better. On a related note, I've noticed that soloing routes and ridges and stuff around Sugarloaf and Ontario peaks pays off when going to areas with excellent rock. Rope-soloing a multipitch free route in Yosemite rarely has the amount of loose rock, traversing, strange anchors, bad gear, scary falls, etc as the San Gabes offer with their often terrible rock. Plus the Yosemite route is more fun.
Not the same work, though. Aaaaaanyway...
...so I set up a rather large rack as for whatever reason figured I might need to aid through a bad section or something too steep for me to solo without falling (probably bad pro). Double rack of cams, some nuts, pecker pitons, large hooks, and all the other junk. I don't have a bag to carry this amount of stuff I often need when doing stupid dirty distant San Gabe towers of crumbling poopgranite, so I brought a pig. Had probably 50lbs of stuff, some of which I was planning on leaving behind at the first anchor to retrieve when I walked off at sunset or so.
I hiked up the Southeast Ridge of Smith to the level of the base of the rock (3,800ft), dropped the pig, and hiked towards the base of the rock.
There was a lot of Poison Oak on the way. Lotta bushwhacking with good ol' Buckthorn mixed into the Manzanita, Scrub Oak, and that thing with the white-ish bark and oval leaves. I reached a cliffband or whatever, and began traversing towards the middle of the face, which I could not see. This involved class 4 moves on crumbly rock with Poison Oak around every corner. Not normally scared of it, but I had a reaction last time so I'm being cautious.
An interesting thing about this area are the ferns growing where you'd not entirely expect them. The area is known for being very dry, yet this plant thrives on Smith Mountain in particular.
It was at this point I decided it wasn't worth it. I don't think I'll go back unless someone else wants to go. The rock looks a lot like the small crag just off the Valley of the Moon parking lot (regular route up Smith). Not going to be worth it. On the drive in, I had realized there was less vertical technical ground available, so that took some wind out of my sails. It would probably provide one or two long wandering pitches on rock that's just below what I want to climb on in terms of quality. I also cannot afford to replace a rope right now.
I made it back down in very little time. I didn't keep track as I just judge my time from position of the sun and available light. Relaxed outlook. Works real well at providing something enjoyable, even if you just end up taking your gear for a walk.
I've been glancing at the rock face above Lost Canyon for a long time, wondering if it would be fun to climb it. I never really seriously attempted it, but I've made a few trips since I first saw it checking out how I'd approach it. I've been partway up Lost Canyon, up to within a short distance of the top of that face once while canyoneering, and up the southeast ridge firebreak.
I planned to climb it this week, as another small step on my way to getting good at living with a Silent Partner (solo-belay device). Solo leading is usually more challenging than regular leading, as you must take more things into consideration. The more time I spend on a system, the more comfortable I get with it. I had been soloing with a modified Grigri and a chest harness before, but if the tension in the system isn't just right, it becomes a real pain to use. The SP is very very smooth, and is the easiest method of lead-soloing I've used. I have some rather long climbs planned that I will be attempting alone, so the better I get with the SP leading free climbing pitches in new terrain with anchor challenges, the better. On a related note, I've noticed that soloing routes and ridges and stuff around Sugarloaf and Ontario peaks pays off when going to areas with excellent rock. Rope-soloing a multipitch free route in Yosemite rarely has the amount of loose rock, traversing, strange anchors, bad gear, scary falls, etc as the San Gabes offer with their often terrible rock. Plus the Yosemite route is more fun.
Not the same work, though. Aaaaaanyway......so I set up a rather large rack as for whatever reason figured I might need to aid through a bad section or something too steep for me to solo without falling (probably bad pro). Double rack of cams, some nuts, pecker pitons, large hooks, and all the other junk. I don't have a bag to carry this amount of stuff I often need when doing stupid dirty distant San Gabe towers of crumbling poopgranite, so I brought a pig. Had probably 50lbs of stuff, some of which I was planning on leaving behind at the first anchor to retrieve when I walked off at sunset or so.
I hiked up the Southeast Ridge of Smith to the level of the base of the rock (3,800ft), dropped the pig, and hiked towards the base of the rock.
There was a lot of Poison Oak on the way. Lotta bushwhacking with good ol' Buckthorn mixed into the Manzanita, Scrub Oak, and that thing with the white-ish bark and oval leaves. I reached a cliffband or whatever, and began traversing towards the middle of the face, which I could not see. This involved class 4 moves on crumbly rock with Poison Oak around every corner. Not normally scared of it, but I had a reaction last time so I'm being cautious.
An interesting thing about this area are the ferns growing where you'd not entirely expect them. The area is known for being very dry, yet this plant thrives on Smith Mountain in particular.
It was at this point I decided it wasn't worth it. I don't think I'll go back unless someone else wants to go. The rock looks a lot like the small crag just off the Valley of the Moon parking lot (regular route up Smith). Not going to be worth it. On the drive in, I had realized there was less vertical technical ground available, so that took some wind out of my sails. It would probably provide one or two long wandering pitches on rock that's just below what I want to climb on in terms of quality. I also cannot afford to replace a rope right now.
I made it back down in very little time. I didn't keep track as I just judge my time from position of the sun and available light. Relaxed outlook. Works real well at providing something enjoyable, even if you just end up taking your gear for a walk.