20130907 Horse Flats
Posted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 1:11 am
Amanda wanted to get some cool footage with a new camera she was testing out. Her plan was originally to go canyoneering, around Forest Falls or maybe Lytle Creek. The camera stopped working so we changed plans and headed up ACH to go check out some mellow toproping or something. Figure it out as you go kinda deal.
Past Newcomb's, I had the idea to go to Horse Flats instead, as it's an even shorter hike in and I'd been there a few times before and had a very vague idea of where things were. I still managed to get us lost, which I've become rather adept at recently. I secretly was sick of carrying 75lb packs full of solo stuff up steep terrain, so carrying only about 50lbs up an easy trail sounded really nice. The trail up Waterman is real pleasant and only 3 miles or so one way (a stab in the dark, no map handy right now), but hey.
We climbed a 5.6ish crack up a short 20ft slab in the 'Main Area', where Amanda learned some basic protection placement stuff and all that jazz. After that, we took our gear for a walk and I got us lost. We hiked south from the main area and checked some things out. I went up a 5.whatever chimney thing to look at some options. There's a kinda neat crack with pin scars in crumbly rock with a fun looking crack above. Terrible or no protection for the first 10ft or so. Not a good one to lead free at the moment. We kept going to another slab. This slab is on the south side of the gully south of the main area. We dropped packs and checked it out. Two cracks up top provide spots for anchors: hands (.75-#1 C4) on the left, and small-tiny cams for the right. We used both to do various routes. It appears we were the first to climb on this formation, as the rock was covered in 'eggshells' that crumble as you touch them. They were like scabs peeling off, crumbling with any weight. I don't know if this slab has a name, but I have called it Scab Slab as a result.
There's an east and north face. The south side is all class 3 or less, which is where we stashed most of our gear. The west side is a trail. On the east face is an arete at the southern edge, which is 5.6 or so with a slippery start that would probably be graded harder, but ratings are very personal and serve ego more than safety in a lot of cases. It's an easy, fun arete up cool orange intrusions you can really grab. Fun. Wish it was longer. No name on that one yet.
To the right is a face with lots of eggshell. From above and below, this and all the other routes appear quite low angle, but they're harder than they look (thankfully). This east face has some real cool features, mostly small crimps. If placed somewhere in Yosemite Valley, I'd say it would probably be rated 5.10c-5.11a, depending on eighty billion random factors and how much anyone anywhere had to drink, and if anyone was on the internet disputing the rating. I give it a 5.9+, which incidentally I gave to the other lines I felt were harder than 5.9. I don't like talking about ratings with folks I'm not close with, as ratings are probably my least favorite part of climbing, though they serve a central purpose. Such is the game for me. The route eases as you go higher. I call it 'Slab Jesus', an inside joke some cool folks I met and climbed at Glacier Point Apron while living in a tent in that place everyone goes in Yosemite with the bears and weed and too many damn guitars around the campfire while you're terribly ill and just want silence. Slab Jesus can walk up anything because he's Slab Jesus.
To the right is a bulge, which I think was a fair amount easier, but still good ol' 5.9+. Bigger features. Can't recall the name at the moment.
To the right of that, more on the north side, is an orange stain that goes straight up. This is harder than the previous route, and pretty desperate. My kind of climbing. I am quite happy toproping hard slab. One of my favorite things, actually. 5.9+ and about $0.38 or so.
To the right of that is a real neat thin route I've given a name to that will ruffle the feathers of folks who don't have much of a sense of humor. Another inside joke name, of course. Mummydick. Just tell those offended that it's the embalmed body of a man named Richard from long ago. It isn't, but it's just rock climbing. This one is pretty rad, with kinda crummy smearing on steepish gritty slab. It has a neat character, as there are quartz crystals about as big as marble shooters here and there, in all the right places. A couple cool holds for a fingertip or two, some neat balancey moves, pushing your way to the left or right. Very rewarding to climb. 5.9+ and a handful of change.
Right of this is the rest of the north face, which has some easier climbing that gets thin straight up. Can't remember how hard it was, as I only climbed this section once. Amanda went up and right through a dirty slab covered in grit and lichen/moss, where she pulled some Slab Jesus. Would be pretty cool if clean of grit etc, I reckon. Not out to really totally clean the whole slab though, just whatever scabs I could pry off with my fingers.
Had a good time. I really enjoy climbing with Amanda, as always. I'm trying to move back out of LA again and hopefully spend more time in Yosemite where I found I was happiest, soloing lots of moderate stuff every day I wasn't sick (which was most). Just getting out and being engaged in the act of moving over rock with no distractions and usually alone is really special, and allows one to zone out. I would usually climb a few laps on some of the routes on Manure Pile Buttress, passing parties as politely as possible (easy when you're happy). Taking a break at the huge flat top of the crag, you can sit and take in the view, clean air, and good vibes, and sort through the things on your mind and put them in order. Such a thing is rare here in LA where money is your god.
I will add some photos later. Cheers folks.
Past Newcomb's, I had the idea to go to Horse Flats instead, as it's an even shorter hike in and I'd been there a few times before and had a very vague idea of where things were. I still managed to get us lost, which I've become rather adept at recently. I secretly was sick of carrying 75lb packs full of solo stuff up steep terrain, so carrying only about 50lbs up an easy trail sounded really nice. The trail up Waterman is real pleasant and only 3 miles or so one way (a stab in the dark, no map handy right now), but hey.
We climbed a 5.6ish crack up a short 20ft slab in the 'Main Area', where Amanda learned some basic protection placement stuff and all that jazz. After that, we took our gear for a walk and I got us lost. We hiked south from the main area and checked some things out. I went up a 5.whatever chimney thing to look at some options. There's a kinda neat crack with pin scars in crumbly rock with a fun looking crack above. Terrible or no protection for the first 10ft or so. Not a good one to lead free at the moment. We kept going to another slab. This slab is on the south side of the gully south of the main area. We dropped packs and checked it out. Two cracks up top provide spots for anchors: hands (.75-#1 C4) on the left, and small-tiny cams for the right. We used both to do various routes. It appears we were the first to climb on this formation, as the rock was covered in 'eggshells' that crumble as you touch them. They were like scabs peeling off, crumbling with any weight. I don't know if this slab has a name, but I have called it Scab Slab as a result.
There's an east and north face. The south side is all class 3 or less, which is where we stashed most of our gear. The west side is a trail. On the east face is an arete at the southern edge, which is 5.6 or so with a slippery start that would probably be graded harder, but ratings are very personal and serve ego more than safety in a lot of cases. It's an easy, fun arete up cool orange intrusions you can really grab. Fun. Wish it was longer. No name on that one yet.
To the right is a face with lots of eggshell. From above and below, this and all the other routes appear quite low angle, but they're harder than they look (thankfully). This east face has some real cool features, mostly small crimps. If placed somewhere in Yosemite Valley, I'd say it would probably be rated 5.10c-5.11a, depending on eighty billion random factors and how much anyone anywhere had to drink, and if anyone was on the internet disputing the rating. I give it a 5.9+, which incidentally I gave to the other lines I felt were harder than 5.9. I don't like talking about ratings with folks I'm not close with, as ratings are probably my least favorite part of climbing, though they serve a central purpose. Such is the game for me. The route eases as you go higher. I call it 'Slab Jesus', an inside joke some cool folks I met and climbed at Glacier Point Apron while living in a tent in that place everyone goes in Yosemite with the bears and weed and too many damn guitars around the campfire while you're terribly ill and just want silence. Slab Jesus can walk up anything because he's Slab Jesus.
To the right is a bulge, which I think was a fair amount easier, but still good ol' 5.9+. Bigger features. Can't recall the name at the moment.
To the right of that, more on the north side, is an orange stain that goes straight up. This is harder than the previous route, and pretty desperate. My kind of climbing. I am quite happy toproping hard slab. One of my favorite things, actually. 5.9+ and about $0.38 or so.
To the right of that is a real neat thin route I've given a name to that will ruffle the feathers of folks who don't have much of a sense of humor. Another inside joke name, of course. Mummydick. Just tell those offended that it's the embalmed body of a man named Richard from long ago. It isn't, but it's just rock climbing. This one is pretty rad, with kinda crummy smearing on steepish gritty slab. It has a neat character, as there are quartz crystals about as big as marble shooters here and there, in all the right places. A couple cool holds for a fingertip or two, some neat balancey moves, pushing your way to the left or right. Very rewarding to climb. 5.9+ and a handful of change.
Right of this is the rest of the north face, which has some easier climbing that gets thin straight up. Can't remember how hard it was, as I only climbed this section once. Amanda went up and right through a dirty slab covered in grit and lichen/moss, where she pulled some Slab Jesus. Would be pretty cool if clean of grit etc, I reckon. Not out to really totally clean the whole slab though, just whatever scabs I could pry off with my fingers.
Had a good time. I really enjoy climbing with Amanda, as always. I'm trying to move back out of LA again and hopefully spend more time in Yosemite where I found I was happiest, soloing lots of moderate stuff every day I wasn't sick (which was most). Just getting out and being engaged in the act of moving over rock with no distractions and usually alone is really special, and allows one to zone out. I would usually climb a few laps on some of the routes on Manure Pile Buttress, passing parties as politely as possible (easy when you're happy). Taking a break at the huge flat top of the crag, you can sit and take in the view, clean air, and good vibes, and sort through the things on your mind and put them in order. Such a thing is rare here in LA where money is your god.
I will add some photos later. Cheers folks.
(Sender poser 
)