EISPIRATEN

This one was on the list for a loooong time. Cancelled over the years because of lack of funds, too much work or school, bad weather, etc... finally made it up with Torrey yesterday.

I did not enjoy it much. The climbing was easy, save for several unprotected 5.7 slab moves for a distance. It was very windy (think Baldy during a windy day). We descended the cables (which were down) at dark. The hike out sucked. 18hrs round trip focusing on slower pace for hiking (trying to retrain myself to land on my forefoot and not my heel, as I have been having problems with my heels and Achilles tendons).

The runouts were more comical than dangerous, even in the wind. I feel like a safety nazi for saying this, but I did not like how I couldn't protect the belay, as there are rarely any placements for gear on a dike like that, and the next bolt is like 100ft above.

I don't see myself doing this again, but I said that about a ton of things before (like Fish Fork), and we all know how mountaineers think... erm, don't think. "Hey, that sucked ass! Dave almost died and you lost a lot of blood! Wanna do it again?"

Anyway, pics and shit:

Gear:

70m rope: I have been using a 70m here and I like it. I typically combine pitches with it. It's an older rope and pretty fat, so belaying in guide mode with a R3 was a lot of work on the low angle terrain. I'd like a thinner, lighter rope for this kind of route.

Cams: I brought 6, mostly small cams. I ended up using an orange Mastercam, a #5 and #6 Wild Country Longstem Zeroes (big favorite). I brought a green #9 Mastercam, but I don't think I placed it. I might have early on or high up to protect the belay. I had a #3 and #4 Zero along, and didn't think I'd use them. I brought them as insurance, as they weigh nothing and would be handy to augment an anchor. They're pretty tiny.

Nuts: I brought a handful of offsets and I used a large grey DMM offset nut (aluminium), and a mid-sized one (blue or gold?).

Draws: 6 very light alpine draws, Camp Nano 23's with BD Dynex slings. Ended every pitch with 2 or more left on my side at the belay. Very very light so who cares if you have extras.

We remained roped up and protected a pitch or two above P8, and did a running belay to just shy of the top because the wind kept knocking us over.

Heres my pics too!

Ryan on Mist Trail



nevada Falls



Melvin! on his first adventure! hes my squirrel Ryan got me



ryan leading



view from a ledge





my foot












El Capitan



North Dome looking small!



Royal Arches and the meadow near our house

Great shots Ryan and Torrey, looks like a great fall day in Yosemite other than the wind. Thanks for sharing that.

Glad to see it's still knobby and run out. Is a fun climb. -Stillman
I like 70m ropes too.

This one's on my list too. Great to see good pics of it and snow too!

Thanks for the post.