EISPIRATEN

Mitch and I headed up the MR route with Kurt Wedberg and friends last Thursday.

Since it was our first time on the Mountaineer's Route we figured it would be a good call to go with the company of experienced guides. It was the right decision.
The road was closed with snow about a mile short of the Portal but the good snow coverage made the trail up North Fork easy with snowshoes to Lower Boyscout Lake.

Our packs were also the heaviest we've carried on a trip at 64lbs for Mitch and 67lbs for me.






My new Backcountry 700ml Titanium mug, currently on sale. Got it in the mail the day we left ..

After a camp at Lower Boyscout Lake we headed up to High Camp at the Whitney Cirque, aprx. 12K


Ryan, Blue ice beckons!


We geared up for the summit in 3 man teams early Saturday morning







At the mantrel crux the SMI crew secured fixed lines for the final three pitches of 40-45 degree slopes with a Class 3 rock-band at the start








.. and back down again





Awesome trip. I recommend it for anybody serious in the MR route.
Special thanks to Kurt, Zach and April, our guides!

Very nice Fritz, glad you guys had such a good time Pictures tell the story as well

Sweet! I am so doing that next Winter. Thanks for sharing

Awesome images, Fritz. A trip to remember for sure. Did you need snowshoes all the way to Iceberg?

Most excellent. Great pics. Great to see your axe out there getting some action, Mitch.

Thanks, guys!

Dave G wrote: ↑Awesome images, Fritz. A trip to remember for sure. Did you need snowshoes all the way to Iceberg?

Pretty much. We put them on at the North Fork split and used them all the way to High Camp at the Cirque (12,300' or so).
The snow was deep and soft in the warm weather. Otherwise we'd have post-holed our way up carrying 65# packs.

Booted it back down because of crampon balling with the gobby wet snow. Glissaded as we could.
The whole way down was a minefield of possible postholes right down to the Portal.

Looked a tad nippy on top.

Way to go guys. A Whitney winter ascent is an accomplishment. 60+ pound packs is pretty good too.

HJ

Two more to close!

thanks for posting this TR! i'm supposed to head up to south lake for a two nighter next week and this tr totally got me amped up for it. looks like you guys had a lot of fun!

Beautiful pix, Congrats on your winter summit! It's so much harder with a heavy pack to get through snow...and you added a fee miles going up the road...

Hikin_Jim wrote: ↑Looked a tad nippy on top.

Way to go guys. A Whitney winter ascent is an accomplishment. 60+ pound packs is pretty good too.

Holy cow, it was the coldest I have ever experienced in the notch (at the top of the couloir, at the bottom of the "final 400 feet"). It was high and windy and mostly in shadow. But the right clothing made it not such a big deal (I bought that down jacket nearly two years ago and this trip was my first opportunity to use it. As you can see, we actually climbed the final 400 in our down jackets). Personally, only my hands and my feet were ever very cold.

And being able to hump that pack up to 12,000 feet gave me a real sense of accomplishment. Thanks to the pacing established by Kurt, it wasn't nearly as difficult as I would have expected.

As Fritz said, hiring a guide service is highly recommended for something like this. The climb is pretty standard fare all the way up to the final 400 feet, when it suddenly becomes very dicey indeed. But with the guide service's emphasis on safety, I think the most dangerous part of the entire adventure was dodging the rocks on the road up to the Portal. I'm not kidding. That drive was nerve-racking.

The packs were heavy due to a misunderstanding. After conversations with one of the other climbers, the guy who sort of set it up, we didn't realize how much "communal gear" each climber was obliged to carry. So I, at least, arrived at Lone Pine with more clothing and other gear than I would have had if I knew the whole story ahead of time. So for those who are considering this themselves: pack light (eg, one of everything, instead of two or three) because you will have to carry your share of the food, kitchen stuff, fuel and shelter. That's not a big deal, of course, it's what we are all used to doing. But in this case we didn't realize how it was going to be until we got there. I could have done better, and will, should I do this again.

We were incredibly lucky with the weather. Snow conditions could not have been better, and we had sunny skies and relatively still air for the entire climb (it only got windy late at night and at the top). The clouds started moving in as we broke camp on Sunday and snow flurries appeared. For most of our final day's descent Mt Whitney was obscured by clouds. The folks going up this week with SMI will not be experiencing the nice weather we had.

It was my first meeting with Kurt Wedberg. I was impressed by his casual professionalism. It's great having someone like him right in our backyard, as it were. He guides climbs all over the world, too. April and Zach proved to be experienced, knowledgeable and incredibly patient.

The only aspect of the climb I didn't really care for was being short-roped on summit day. It wouldn't be strictly necessary on a non-guided climb, but I understand why it had to be done in this case. The guides simply could not take any chances with the safety of their clients.

I know using a guide service is not for everyone, but they sure do provide great peace of mind. Don't ever believe they actually haul your ass up the mountain for you; they don't, you have to do it yourself. But you are left free to concentrate on the effort and not worry about routes and logistics. SMI is the first guide service I have ever used and after this single experience I would recommend them to anyone.

Wow, looks like you guys had a killer trip. I can't remember seeing folks so bundled up at the summit, it must have been really cold. The pics do a great job of taking us office-bound souls there, can't wait until I give this a shot later this season.

Burchey wrote: ↑The pics do a great job of taking us office-bound souls there, can't wait until I give this a shot later this season.

Dude, my body may be office bound, but my soul is not.

HJ

14.5k congrats Fritz and Mitch!! The MR in winter is a mighty challenge, especially so heavily laden. When i did an MR with SMI we did a gear share distribution at the Hostel. Did they not do that with you? We were all able to jettison some excess gear/weight as we took on the shared loads. Not to worry... the load carry will only make you stronger for Denali! Truly, you had some awesome weather for a winter summit. Very cool Eispiratens! 8)

simonov wrote: ↑ The packs were heavy due to a misunderstanding. After conversations with one of the other climbers, the guy who sort of set it up, we didn't realize how much "communal gear" each climber was obliged to carry.

I'm confused on this. Did you think they were going to pack and carry tents and food for you guys? What communal gear did they require you to carry that you wouldn't already need to take with you without a guide? It's very impressive that you carried that much weight to that altitude, it's just too bad you had to.

Did they give you opportunity to dump anything in the car before you set out?

Burchey wrote: ↑I'm confused on this. Did you think they were going to pack and carry tents and food for you guys?

Sort of. It was going to be a "special" arrangement. But as I said, it was a misunderstanding.

Burchey wrote: ↑What communal gear did they require you to carry that you wouldn't already need to take with you without a guide? It's very impressive that you carried that much weight to that altitude, it's just too bad you had to.

Nothing more than what you would normally carry. It's just that I sort of loaded up beforehand with a few things I didn't really need because I thought that would be it. I could have re-packed in the parking lot in Lone Pine if I had been concerned. It wasn't until we were at the Portal that we learned just how much our packs weighed. That was a real "Holy crap!" moment.

Of course, we've had this discussion before. I couldn't go winter camping with my Osprey Variante the way you do.

simonov wrote: ↑

Burchey wrote: ↑What communal gear did they require you to carry that you wouldn't already need to take with you without a guide? It's very impressive that you carried that much weight to that altitude, it's just too bad you had to.

Nothing more than what you would normally carry. It's just that I sort of loaded up beforehand with a few things I didn't really need because I thought that would be it. I could have re-packed in the parking lot in Lone Pine if I had been concerned. It wasn't until we were at the Portal that we learned just how much our packs weighed. That was a real "Holy crap!" moment.

Of course, we've had this discussion before. I couldn't go winter camping with my Osprey Variante the way you do.

After I typed that up, I thought of ropes/etc that they may have tried to stick on you guys, even though you might not want to rope up, etc. That would be a bummer. You guys have some strong legs and back to haul all that up. I do try to keep it a little more simple when I go, but I'm not sure if I could get away with my smaller pack - might be carrying the bigger Aether for that trip.

I may have missed it, but what was your total time into this trip? I'm trying to figure out a way to work in a sick day or something on a friday and do the 6 hour drive up/back and have enough time to get it done.

Burchey wrote: ↑I'm trying to figure out a way to work in a sick day or something on a friday and do the 6 hour drive up/back and have enough time to get it done.

Summit fever, no doubt. Tell your boss you've got chronic SDS*.

HJ

*SDS = Sierra Deprivation Syndrome.

Burchey wrote: ↑After I typed that up, I thought of ropes/etc that they may have tried to stick on you guys, even though you might not want to rope up, etc. That would be a bummer.

No, the guides carried all the ropes. I'm sure their packs were heavier than ours, because of that (except maybe April's, she is small!). We carried harness, slings, caribiners and ascender, of course. And there's no question of whether or not you rope up: the guides are running the show! But we were roped up only on summit day.

You guys have some strong legs and back to haul all that up. I do try to keep it a little more simple when I go, but I'm not sure if I could get away with my smaller pack - might be carrying the bigger Aether for that trip.

Burchey wrote: ↑I may have missed it, but what was your total time into this trip?

Day 1: Portal to Upper Boy Scout Lake

Day 2: Upper Boy Scout Lake to Camp 2 at 12,000 feet

Day 3: Summit day, up and back to Camp 2

Day 4: Back down to the Portal

Awesome, that looks like fun! I just read about the break-ins at the trailhead, that sucks.

he only aspect of the climb I didn't really care for was being short-roped on summit day.

If you guys were on your own, were conditions good enough that you would have been comfortable with out a rope?

hvydrt wrote: ↑If you guys were on your own, were conditions good enough that you would have been comfortable with out a rope?

Up to the notch, sure.

hvydrt wrote: ↑.. were conditions good enough that you would have been comfortable with out a rope?

Coditions were perfect!
However, I would not have been comfortable without a belay.

The snow was just soft enough to kick-step up and down that last 400 feet (at 40-45 degrees).
Other climbers up there without ropes definitely had a serious pucker factor going at the outset of down-climbing.
Only experienced climbers should even consider free-climbing that.

It would be similar to down-climbing the top of Telepgraph's NW Face.

Kurt did take issue seeing other free-climbers following in single-file the ladder-like steps up/down the top 400 feet without a stagger.
If anybody slipped, then a whole string of climbers would be knocked off the mountain.

I watched Kurt descend last after he and the other guides safely lowered us down three pitches to the crux.
He sent showers of snow down with multiple kicks per step as he free-climbed his way down facing the mountain.
Even in good conditions there just is no room for error and only seconds to make a self arrest.

If it were iced over (and supposedly it usually is) then I would NOT down-climb that from the top without belaying.
You'd slide so fast that you'd be in the rock-band just above the cux before being able to make an arrest.

In short, this was my first time climbing the MR and retrospectively the last 400 feet is precisely why I made the decision to climb with Kurt Wedberg!

I meant the short-roping up to the notch and back. That wasn't necessary for reasonably skilled climbers (in my opinion).

But for the final 400 feet, as Fritz said, I absolutely wanted a belay, up and down. That's why I went with SMI.

simonov wrote: ↑I meant the short-roping up to the notch and back. That wasn't necessary for reasonably skilled climbers (in my opinion).

But for the final 400 feet, as Fritz said, I absolutely wanted a belay, up and down. That's why I went with SMI.

Because I'm predicting most if not all of my potential climbing buddies to bail out on me for my attempt on this one, I think I'll probably rig up a sturdy umbilical system either attached to both spike ends if it's more icy, or pick ends for plunging if it is softer. Downclimbing solo in this manner might provide a little more safety if you slip - not perfect, but better than just using one like a cane on the downclimb.

Burchey wrote: ↑Because I'm predicting most if not all of my potential climbing buddies to bail out on me for my attempt on this one, I think I'll probably rig up a sturdy umbilical system either attached to both spike ends if it's more icy, or pick ends for plunging if it is softer. Downclimbing solo in this manner might provide a little more safety if you slip - not perfect, but better than just using one like a cane on the downclimb.

If you don't see yourself getting up there this winter, why not do the route in the summer? The final 400 feet are a Class 4 scramble in the summer. Then you will have a chance to check it out and decide whether you think you can do it unassisted in the winter.

Great stuff guys!



on topic....
Burchey if you have issues finding a committed confident partner.I would be game to head up and give you a belay wherever you felt needed.Though i would want a belay on the east buttress in mixed conditions. =)
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/califo ... /105789686

check your pm

I've seen plenty of trip reports/pictures/videos of the final 400 in summer/winter conditions. Plenty of lads have climbed up this portion without a belay and lived to tell the tale. I know the run-out over the cliff is the scary part, but the majority of the stories I've heard of injury/death are from something unusual, like trying to glissade down that portion. WHat?!

Johnny, thanks for the offer on the winter belay. I sent you a PM on the East Buttress issue. I think I'll be okay on the MR attempt.

I haven't done a winter summit via the MR, but I know how steep that final section is photos can't really capture just how steep and how far down you will end up if something went really wrong. It looks like you guys had great snow conditions. Love the photos! Congratulations again!

Judging by the photos, I don't think the group that went up after us last week made it past the notch.

And I think this is the reason why: http://www.kurtwedbergphotography.com/S ... jYMPE-A-LB

That video is a very good view of the "final 400 feet" (aka "the gully") from the bottom.

simonov wrote: ↑ That video is a very good view of the "final 400 feet" (aka "the gully") from the bottom.

Thanks Simonov, that looks tasty to me. I'm surprised at the lack of snow cover on the lower section, is that typical of this time of year? I'm assuming wind has a lot to do with that.