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Tahquitz Traditional mountain rock climbing 9-15-2010

Posted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 11:30 pm
by Johnny Bronson
Zach and I headed out to Tahquitz(Lilly rock) around the town of Idyllwild for a beautiful day of traditional rock climbing.The drive up was very nice and relaxing,weather couldn't have been better.Stopped by ihop for the champion breakfast early in the am =D We then geared up for a classic route.

The approach is STEEP,just imagine high stepping 800 feet elevation gain in about 20 minutes haha needless to say it was a great warm up exercise =).Awesome climbing,very fun,Zach leads,I follow/clean(collect stuck cams from previous ascents :P hahaa,loads of laughs and a beautiful run out slab summit.Climbed about 450-500 feet total to top out on the western face.

"wikipedia: Tahquitz, also called Lily Rock [8,000+ ft], is a granite rock formation (33°45′36″N 116°41′01″W / 33.76°N 116.68361°W / 33.76; -116.68361) located on the high western slope of the San Jacinto mountain range in Riverside County, Southern California, United States, above the mountain town of Idyllwild. Tahquitz has a steep approach hike (approximately 800-foot elevation gain in a half mile), leading to a roughly 1000-foot face. Tahquitz, which can refer to both the rock outcrop and the outcrop's parent peak, is a popular hiking destination and rock climbing area. The area was named after Chief Tahquitz of the Soboba Indian tribe, and first appeared in print on a 1901 USGS San Jacinto topographical map.[1] A second popular rock face, called Suicide Rock, lies across the valley."

Photo Disclaimer,Photobucket sucks and I tried rotating the pics before and after.Some of them will not post properly.Sorry for the few eye strainers,I cant be bothered about it anymore lol) =D


Organizing the gear/essentials
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Heading up
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ahh ha!
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Hello kind sir!I see you have the new flextrex2020593205325 belly pack!
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Lets do this =D
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hmmm thats a bit tight dont you think ;)
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ughhh yes,yes it is
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Bomberder!
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oldie piton
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When BIRDS ATTACK!
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moving on up...
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topping out,Suicide rock in the backround
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heading back down and home
trailhead Humber
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ski tracks,see ya next time =D
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Enjoy life,smile =)

Re: Tahquitz Traditional mountain rock climbing 9-15-2010

Posted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 6:53 am
by turtle
Very nice... thanks for posting the report. I desperately need to get out to Tahquitz before the snows arrive.

The Trough is definitely the stoutest 5.0 I've ever climbed! I had to z-rig a fellow climber over the "crux" just below Pine Tree Ledge. He frustratedly remarked that he should cross out the "5.10" on his shoes and replace it with "4.9". :wink:

Re: Tahquitz Traditional mountain rock climbing 9-15-2010

Posted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 7:53 am
by Johnny Bronson
As far as climbing goes,The proper crux was the approach.lol =D

Re: Tahquitz Traditional mountain rock climbing 9-15-2010

Posted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 10:55 am
by mve
Cool stuff dudes! I'd love to get into rock climbing -- what's the best way to approach this? Climbing school? Gym? What shoes are most appropriate for our So Cal rock, like found in Joshua Tree and Idylwild?

Re: Tahquitz Traditional mountain rock climbing 9-15-2010

Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 3:50 am
by Taco
VITALIY EEZ BACK!!!

What kinda shoes, like what kinda rubber or something? Pretty much any shoe is fine, just depends on what shoe for what kind of climbing, and your own personal preferances once you've done a bunch of climbing.

Heck, I do all of my rock climbing in those 5.10 Guide Tennies you see at REI.

Re: Tahquitz Traditional mountain rock climbing 9-15-2010

Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 8:09 am
by mve
Thanks Ryan! I'll check the 5.10's seems like a good all around shoe.

Re: Tahquitz Traditional mountain rock climbing 9-15-2010

Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 8:50 am
by Taco
They did kinda wear out a tad faster than I thought they would, but I used them for everything. I don't know what else to suggest.

Re: Tahquitz Traditional mountain rock climbing 9-15-2010

Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 10:01 am
by Johnny Bronson
Mve, sweet man! Climbing is extremely fun.To get into it,it all depends on your ability to absorb information mentally and apply it physically.If you want to start indoors or outdoors,it all depends on what you want to do.The climbing gym can be a good outlet to learn and get the basic "ropes" down or starting outside teaching yourself/learning with friends and/or getting professional instruction is another way.
It all comes down to the individual and their comfort level in what they are willing to do.

As far as shoes for technical climbing routes,If you are seriously interested in technical climbing and using the techniques (edging/smearing/jamming etc)rock climbing shoes are the only shoes to use.

The best mix is to have a hiking/approach shoe for easier scrambling class 4/5 terrain.Then bust out the sticky climbing shoes for the routes that involve technical higher grade face/crack climbing.

Any of the recent years to current model la sportivas,boreals,5.10,evolvs etc area good choice.Just try on a bunch of shoes and see what fits you best.(you can also rent shoes from sports chalet/rei for cheap to see what style/brand/shape you like)Climbing shoes wont be too "comfortable" so to speak,but they are made to be more "comforting" doing not so comfortable technical moves.

Re: Tahquitz Traditional mountain rock climbing 9-15-2010

Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 4:19 pm
by mve
Thanks Johnny!

Re: Tahquitz Traditional mountain rock climbing 9-15-2010

Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 4:48 pm
by norma r
:D Cool beans Johnny and Zach!! Looking forward to rockin' it at Tahquitz in 2 weeks. I'm a working girl again, so let me know if you have any weekend climbs i might join you on.