20100705 Mormon Rocks
Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 11:36 pm
Johnny and I went to check out a possible route on a spur-of-the-moment kinda thing. We didn't find the route I found beta for on the internet (at least I seriously doubt we did), but we did find some ancient slab route that was lots of fun.
Since it's pretty much im-freaking-possible for me to know the damn name of this route (assuming it has one, which it probably does), I labelled (not named, labelled, dammit) it "The Old Route". It goes at 5.6 and is real runout if you lead it, since there are only 3 pieces in its 48 meters or so. There are two pounded in BOMBER pitons, and one hangerless 1/4" bolt down low that you'd either have to equip with a nut and hanger, or sling with a steel draw and nut or nut (chock) cable, aid climbing style. It's a fun, easy slab route that has plenty of chicken heads and good holds throughout, with two good bolts with rings and hangers up top.
http://www.summitpost.org/route/635123/ ... h-48m.html
VIJJA:
Selected pics:
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050197.jpg)
Route
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050198.jpg)
Approach gully
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050199.jpg)
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050200.jpg)
Inexplicable bolts. I see lotsa inexplicable bolts (I love that word) in our mountains, with my conclusion being that someone placed them practicing how to place bolts correctly.
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050206.jpg)
Big dropoff to the south
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050204.jpg)
Route from up top
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050213.jpg)
Throwing rope
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050218.jpg)
On rapp
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050224.jpg)
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050222.jpg)
Piton
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050228.jpg)
NICE! Hahahahah yeah, negative. It'll hold... no idea where the hell they went above this, if they did at all. Might've been an "oh shit" moment where they left this tat and "racing biner" here and boogied out.
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050231.jpg)
Piton low on the route
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050233.jpg)
Bolt
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050238.jpg)
Johnny rapps
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050249.jpg)
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050255.jpg)
Johnny climbs and pull tests pitons. Result...
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050259.jpg)
THEY'RE BOMBER!
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050260.jpg)
Go fast
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050267.jpg)
Climb
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050274.jpg)
Happy
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050276.jpg)
Sponsor dollars
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050281.jpg)
Haul
Album here:
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y222/T ... n%20Rocks/
Since it's pretty much im-freaking-possible for me to know the damn name of this route (assuming it has one, which it probably does), I labelled (not named, labelled, dammit) it "The Old Route". It goes at 5.6 and is real runout if you lead it, since there are only 3 pieces in its 48 meters or so. There are two pounded in BOMBER pitons, and one hangerless 1/4" bolt down low that you'd either have to equip with a nut and hanger, or sling with a steel draw and nut or nut (chock) cable, aid climbing style. It's a fun, easy slab route that has plenty of chicken heads and good holds throughout, with two good bolts with rings and hangers up top.
http://www.summitpost.org/route/635123/ ... h-48m.html
VIJJA:
Selected pics:
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050197.jpg)
Route
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050198.jpg)
Approach gully
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050199.jpg)
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050200.jpg)
Inexplicable bolts. I see lotsa inexplicable bolts (I love that word) in our mountains, with my conclusion being that someone placed them practicing how to place bolts correctly.
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050206.jpg)
Big dropoff to the south
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050204.jpg)
Route from up top
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050213.jpg)
Throwing rope
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050218.jpg)
On rapp
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050224.jpg)
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050222.jpg)
Piton
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050228.jpg)
NICE! Hahahahah yeah, negative. It'll hold... no idea where the hell they went above this, if they did at all. Might've been an "oh shit" moment where they left this tat and "racing biner" here and boogied out.
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050231.jpg)
Piton low on the route
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050233.jpg)
Bolt
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050238.jpg)
Johnny rapps
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050249.jpg)
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050255.jpg)
Johnny climbs and pull tests pitons. Result...
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050259.jpg)
THEY'RE BOMBER!
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050260.jpg)
Go fast
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050267.jpg)
Climb
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050274.jpg)
Happy
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050276.jpg)
Sponsor dollars
![Image](https://eispiraten.com/images-archived/photobucket/i6/albums/y222/TacoDelRio/20100705%20Mormon%20Rocks/P7050281.jpg)
Haul
Album here:
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y222/T ... n%20Rocks/