EISPIRATEN

A few of us left the 111 and Snow Creek Rd around 0420 this Saturday morning. We quickly skirted around the Snow Creek drainage and up towards the palm oasis before cutting up onto the eastern ridge opposite the DWA property.
Cresting the ridge was a bit disheartening, I thought we'd be well past the DWA property but instead we were just even with it. At about 4000ft we began traversing along the ridge towards snow creek proper. The ridge offers great views of Falls Creek and the plateau with the "normal" snow creek approach. Staying high on the traverse runs you through some mild 3rd class scrambling and a bit of bushwhacking (which chews up time) before crossing Falls Creek and putting you back on the normal route. Half of our party opted to descend into the Falls Creek drainage and back up onto the plateau (not sure which is easier).
We reached the bivy site around 1100 and took a nice looooong lunch. Gearing up, we headed onto the snow tongue to assess the chockstone snowbridge and (possibly) the 5th class alternative. The bridge was in lousy shape with fractures and sagging snow beneath it... not to mention a good 40-50 foot drop below. The 5th class was less than half its normal height but to get to it involved jumping across a gap between the snow and rock. That left us with the 3rd class bypass. Hopping off the bypass we were finally standing upon Snow Creek! Donning our crampons and ice axes we eagerly started up the route.
The snow was PERFECT. Steve and Fern's avalanche left a well groomed path to ascend I don't remember the times for each split but we steadily worked our way up perfect chute after perfect chute of snow. It was sublime. Our route led us to a direct finish atop the summit block. I felt euphoric after cresting... it was an amazing day. I was on the summit at 1840... over 14 hours since we started. On the descent to the tramway I finally hit the proverbial wall. Leg cramps and nausea made for slow going but arrived in time for the next to last tram ride No overnight bathroom bivy for me!
My thanks to Steve, Fernando, Tina, Miguel and Chris for sharing this adventure with me. You guys are AWESOME!
I think this new "legal" route raises the stakes on an already challenging route. Splitting the climb into 2 days would definitely make for a less intense experience although adding to the weight one would have to carry on the entire route. I guess it all comes down to how bad you want it

Great job! Any pictures of the approach through the desert, Zach?

I don't own a camera (yet) but I'm sure the rest of our group will post pics when they get a chance.

zach,

glad you all had an awesome climb and nothing tops the euphoric feeling of a hard-earned summit! sa-weeeeeeeeet! damn, i wish i had better foresight, but there is always next year...

yea Norma, very sorry, the weather we had this past week just worked out in our favor. check your pm's a little later

Zach, it was great spending the day with you and getting through the approach with you was great, your a real goat. Talking to Warren lastnight at the cars, he mentioned that a few of us were spotted on the plateau and that is within their property line. That settled it for me. the snow was really good yesterday, and the steps that had been kicked into the powder the week before, on the final section, were so nice to get to it really made for a nice ending

Are you saying that those of you who dropped onto the plateau instead of doing the bushwacking class three went into DWA territory? The route the others took was OK, though, right?

I wouldn't believe everything that comes out of that guy's mouth. I'm looking at the map right now and from what I can tell they WERE past the property. Whatever, let them waste more money (and time and energy) patrolling the entire perimeter. I don't really give a flying fuck.

Great TR Zach attack, it was a great day on the mountain and great getting to climb with you my friend. Topping out at the PEAK was ALmost as good as sex. We can now both say we have topped out at miller and the peak.

Hamik, here's some photos on the approach,

This picture was taken by the group that descended the ridge. If you stay high up (~4k ft) on the ridge and slowly traverse down and across you should end up at the confluence of Falls Creek right where the shadow and that clump of rocks at the top of the canyon. There are a few large boulders that look inviting to take a break on. Immediately after that you drop down to cross the creek and scramble up a short steep section (hopefully you'll see the cairns steve and fern put up) and you're RIGHT back onto the main trail. Sorry its so vague...



This picture shows the start of the ridge traverse at about 3800ft. You want to try to aim for the top of the red stained rocks (roughly) but there really isn't a wrong way. You'll hit a series of about 4 or 5 gullies that you have to traverse then the it turns into a mild bushwhack/boulder hop and ends when you cross Falls Creek.


The Bypass... its obvious.


Photo Credit: Chris J.

Good work, Z-man!