EISPIRATEN

Trip Report, Tina Style...lol

This is a two parter, sorry, gotta work….keep in mind I am not a good trip reporter, but 17 hours deserved something.

We started a little before 4am, got a later start than expected, without naming names, fergie was a bit late (but he had the proper cookies so we forgave him). We parked across the street off the 111, walked along snow creek road and off onto the sand, then started walking towards what we thought was the ridge and realized we were now in between two ridges in a little cove. Uncertain as to which ridge to head up steve pulled out giga’s map and we decided to head up, straight up, next thing we knew we were at 2000 feet in less than half a mile (this portion was kinda of an ass kicker). We kept seeing the water district light, so I guess we were headed up the right direction. Once we reached the top of that ridge, it seemed to keep going, up and further up. We didn’t want to head too far to the left so we started going across, I remembered giga had mentioned to stay high on the ridge but it was sort of too late. We were already in high brush and rock scrambling, at least it was light at this point. We kept going towards snow creek as much as we could. We could see “that” plateau across the way (it looked quite nice, flat and without brush, I wouldn’t know). After a couple hours of that we ended up what was Folly creek/fuller creek???? There was so much creek crossing I dunno what water stream it was but we had to cross it. we were going to follow it down to the trail but it was rocky, good thing because we ended up doing some more bushwhacking up and ran into the trail. Followed that up and down then up again and finally came across the “tunnel” which I found to be quite nice because it was a tunnel of bushes where before we were really bushwhacking.
Now we came to a rest stop, thank goodness or so I thought, ants for days…as many of you know I love hiking/climbing when it doesn’t involve spiders or bugs or breaking a nail (before I forget I didn’t break a nail on this journey or ruin my pedicure which makes tina VERY happy). I drank the creek water, will eat dirt and even don’t mind snakes but what I mentioned above no can do. So I ended up standing a good portion of break time instead of sitting. I have to say, steve sat one time and I had to brush the ants off his back, they were on every rock all the way to the snow. Enough with the ants…we filled up with creek water, which was pretty tasty, especially if you are dying of thirst. We headed up following the rocks and heading up what I didn’t see to be a trail, just heading up rocks looking for the ducks. Honestly, don’t know how fergie or steve found this to begin with by themselves the first time they went up a month ago. Next thing I knew we were at “dougs” little camp site where we took another break. Believe it or not there were ants there too but not on the bench log so I got to sit for five minutes. from that spot you could see the tongue, honestly I thought that there was sand that connected to the snow, it was just dirty snow but looked like sand. Maybe I didn’t have enough water in me, although for only drinking 5 liters if that I did pretty good not getting dehydrated. I drank 3-4 liters two days prior and made sure I ate properly throughout the whole day. Two sandwiches, carrots, candy, chips, etc….by the time I got to the top I wasn’t hungry just thirsty. I have to indicate, by the time we got to the snow it was 8 hours. We only took like three breaks, one 30 minute break but I don’t think the others were beyond 15-20, I could be wrong. The majority of this time was bushwhacking trying to get to the original trail. Three hours more than it should have been but whatever we got there.
The snow portion will come soon….

Excellent TR so far!...

I love your stream of consciousness narrative style! Keep it comin, Tina--I'm dyin to know what happens next! 8)

Dave G wrote:I'm dyin to know what happens next! 8)

I think she lived. Unless her account is ghost written . . .

Part Two- the snow

As we approached the tongue of the snow we came across some odd random purple wickedly thorny vine running in and out of the rocks of the water. I mention this because it was just so out of place and something you would think to find in the desert vs right before the tongue of the snow. Anyway, we stopped on some rocks, that had more ants, in the snow to change boots out and put on crampons. I remember looking up the chute and it kept going and going and going...after 8 hours of getting to this point I was a little worried but the excitement squashed that right away.

So away we go, heading up, up and up. we turned the first corner and came across the chockstone that was still covered (thank gawd) although it was splitting forming a crevasse. We stayed to the right of it and continued upward. Thereafter we saw avalanche debris that had covered the entire left side. As I was going up steve had yelled to me (we all had our ipods in) to start traversing, I was burning up too much energy trying to go straight up, which was true. On the other hand the somewhat consolidated snow was in between the avalanche on the left and the smooth snow on the right, btw, smooth snow doesn’t mean consolidation.

We turned another corner and saw people coming down, three snow boarders at first then two skiers. Stopped for a moment to chit chat with all of them, then I headed back to my own “personal hell” of traversing back and forth. We reached a point where we were punching in up to 16 inches, upon occasion post holed to our thighs. We took two breaks on the way up, since I wanted to keep going I grabbed something to eat then continued, next thing I knew I had lead us up the miller chute not even realizing it. Once steve told me I was a little disappointed but then realized we were losing light and had to get up to the top asap so we wouldn’t be coming down in complete darkness. At that point I was also happy just to reach a top, but it was still nowhere in sight.

The third little break I opted not to take because I seriously just wanted to be done and figure out where we were topping out. Everything looks the same when you are up there, when you think you are almost there you reach another section that shouted back, NOT. Okay, I exaggerated that one but after being on the move for almost 14 hours I was kinda done. Steve and Fernando took a short break then caught up to me, steve looked at our altitude and we were at 10,000 feet…….YAY! At that time, climbing 10k instead of 10,800 was good enough for me. Let’s keep in mind we had elevation gain and loss during the middle trying to find the trail before the tunnel, so I am sure it was well over 10k.

Anyway, we took quick photos and got the hell down the mountain. We ended up walking as fast as we could down in our crampons trying to beat the light to find the trail. Headed over to sid davis and caught up with a trail. At this point, my lips were chapped I was thirsty (not dehydrated) although I had water in a bottle in my pack it seemed to grab it and/or lip loob at that point would have slowed us down so we kept trucking. Then we saw it, the tram light, it was like an angel in the midst. We ended up having to put our head lamps on the last 15 minutes, we were hitting dirt and snow, this was screwing up my steps. Then we hit the ranger station, sat on the steps and took our crampons off. Carried them up the cement switchbacks that never felt so good in my life. The whole time we were going up them I shouting, “snow creek baby!” Inside at 8ish pm. Since we started right before 4am that puts us in around 16+ hours not 17, sounds a bit better….LOL

I have to say once again thank you to fergie and steve, if it wasn’t for them I would have never made it. I know this whole trip kinda sounds rough, it is, there isn’t any sugar coating it. Would I do again??? HELL YEAH! The sense of accomplishment after finishing that climb was a high that lasted a couple days, no one can take that from you.

The End.

Glad you liked it. You took the same Miller chute we took last year. Regardless of where you top out, the views kick ass, especially at that time of day.

Hiked to SJ Saturday. Met those two skiers on top just before they dropped down the north face. One had a helmet cam. 30 minutes later met the snowboarders coming up to the top going to do the same thing. Thinking to myself the way this year is turning out they’ll probably run into someone climbing up. Guess I was right

I’m not sure which direction is becoming more popular. I think the up has a slight lead.
Strange Saturday. Didn’t meet one hiker the whole day going up or down. Had the peak to myself besides the skiers.

Oh yeah…..nice TR and congrats to you and your buds. Quite the climb, anything over 16 hrs is in epic or really long ass day category.