EISPIRATEN

Telegraph NW Face via Lightning Couloir Detour - 3.6.10

I've been wanting to climb Telegraph's NW Face for a long time now and after looking at it last weekend only to retreat due to unconsolidated snow, I knew this weekend would be a good time to climb it and with the weather system moving in today, the temps stayed low and made the snow conditions optimal. The cold temps would also help contain the rock fall to a minimum.

I started out from Manker Flat at 6:40am and aimed for Lightning Couloir. I was part way up the couloir when a good size chunk of rock came flying down the middle, good thing I was off to the side. After looking up the couloir and noticed a cornice was protecting the exit, I decided to climb over to the East where I found another nice couloir that had no cornice at the top. The exit was steep and fun, a great alternate route.

The route over to Telegraphs NW was easy, just follow the ridge over Thunder Mtn and drop down to the saddle. Here I took a quick snack break before climbing Telegraph's awesome NW Face. I studied some pictures the night before of the route I wanted to climb and although I thought I was in the correct chute, I actually went too far East and didn't notice it until about halfway up. No problem, I just zig zagged my way up through various mini couloirs and eventually climb out just to the East of the summit. A little section of mixed climbing near the top was exciting and overall the climb was one of my favorites.

I retreated from the summit using the NW Ridge and then back over Thunder Mountain where I descended to Manker Flat via one of the ski bowls and Big Butch Wash. I was back at Manker Flat just before 11am and was able to avoid the heavier snow fall that was on the way.

My route I call "Lightning Couloir Detour"...


My route up Telegraph's NW Face...


My pictures:
http://www.digitalalpine.com/2010-Pictu ... 3717_CARiC

Giga, nice work, from the summit of Telegraph Thursday morning Sam and I were looking for ways into the backside from Coldwater Cyn/Stockton Flat area. Great pictures, nice time up and down

You still meeting Taco and company for the race up the bowl tomorrow?

Maybe everyone should carry a baseball glove on Lightning Couloir and see how many rocks we can catch - maybe keep score - on the way up

Lightning Couloir Detour = http://www.summitpost.org/route/593960/ ... M-WI2.html

Hehehhehehehehe

Thanks, Patrick. Ask Taco about the Coldwater Canyon/Stockton Flat area. I believe he knows that area well. Yep, Baldy tomorrow. I just hope the road isn't too icy.

Taco, I knew you would have the correct name for my route. Safety Dance does sound right because I danced my ass outta the Lightning Couloir!

Nice. The snow conditions are perfect now.

Is Baldy Brew the big couloir to the right of Safety Dance and Lightning?

Yep, Baldy Brew is to the right of Lightning. I agree, the snow condtions today were just about perfect.

Great job Mike! Thanks for posting the route with your TR. It's great when cold weather keeps the snow in good condition. I wonder how long this little perfect window will last? Wish i could join you all tomorrow, but i am heading out of town. I'll keep my fingers crossed that the NW routes up Telegraph will still be climbable when i return. Have fun tomorrow to all that are going and i look forward to the TR's.

Ooh, if the road "sucks" tomorrow morning, which it probably will, I'll be doing a fair amount of drifting going up!

And yes, I know the Stockton Flats area better than the back of either of my hands.

lilbitmo wrote:... from the summit of Telegraph Thursday morning Sam and I were looking for ways into the backside from Coldwater Cyn/Stockton Flat area.

Curiously enough, I was in the Lytle Creek area today and discovered that the road to Stockton Flats (3N06) is closed about 2 miles past where the pavement ends at Lytle Creek Firing Line (that leaves you about 1 to 1.5 miles short of Stockton Flat area). Also Road 3N06A which goes up into Coldwater Cyn. is closed at where it splits from the road to Stockton Flat. Anyway, thought that might help (here's some pictures of the area too).

Mike, here's a picture I took of Telegraph (just to the right of the tree) from the east at about 9:45 am - about the time you were up there I think. Ya never know who's lurking in the canyons and on the peaks!

Is it closed at the gates where it crosses the river, heading WSW? I've never seen them close 3n06.

TacoDelRio wrote:Is it closed at the gates where it crosses the river, heading WSW? I've never seen them close 3n06.

Yes, that's the spot. On this map A marks the spot where 3N06A is closed and B marks the spot where 3N06 is closed.

Harumph.

Nice work Mike. You made some great time. 5 hours'ish? Sweet.

Thanks Dave. The snow conditions were great and I was able to move pretty fast. Plus I needed to get back to Manker asap before the heavy snow arrived.

How long until your able to climb again?

Hey Mike, good to see you got this one done! That face has filled in a lot since January. From Thunder the face looks so straightforward, but once you're in there, it's easy to get those mini-ridges mixed up. I remember being further right than I thought.