20100226 Baldy Brew Couloir
Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 7:08 am
Fritz and I headed out from Wanker Flats to do some climbing around Safety Dance. Upon reaching the base of the routes in the area, I saw that all the ice had melted, so we went up a route on the right side of the ridge on the right of Lightning Couloir.
Lightning was in really bad shape, with a huge stain at its base from all the rockfall. I've never seen such large rocks at its base before. That route is a no-go for a while, I think.
The route is named in honor of the awesome beer that Baldy Lodge no longer offers.
Getting ready
That gully starts a bit beyond the trail start for Ski Hut Trail, on Baldy Road/3n06 south. If climbed, it would cut out a huge chunk of the typical hike up to DBB.
Avy warning markers
Some comparison shots of our ice tools. The curvature of the Grivel Matrix tools (blue) is less extreme, which makes them better for alpine climbing. The Camp Awax tools have a more extreme angle, which makes them excellent for water ice and very steep routes.
Lightning left, Baldy Brew right
BB
Fritz getting used to using short tools on intermediate terrain
Movin' on up... to the top...
Mixed band at the top. While waiting for Fritz so I didn't dump (many
) rocks on him, I checked the solidity of it. Even large blocks could be moved without much pressure. I would do it roped if there was nobody below for a looooong way. We turned left.
The bushwhack section, one tree that made climbing interesting.
Looking down Lightning. Note that huge slide area where a shitload of rock took a vacation. This is a very risky route overall, but safe in early season during cold weather while moving fast and light. Otherwise not recommended.
Fritz on the ridge
Here we are just north of the wall/face that Safety Dance climbs. There are a series of gullies that drop you down above the small waterfall near Lightning Couloir, where Big Butch Wash turns north and connects with the bottom of the lift and slopes on Thunder. We glissaded down this gully and got going pretty fast! Had a friggin' BLAST. I love it.
Lightning
A great short day trip!
Route page here: http://www.summitpost.org/route/600725/ ... m-ai2.html
Lightning was in really bad shape, with a huge stain at its base from all the rockfall. I've never seen such large rocks at its base before. That route is a no-go for a while, I think.
The route is named in honor of the awesome beer that Baldy Lodge no longer offers.
Getting ready
That gully starts a bit beyond the trail start for Ski Hut Trail, on Baldy Road/3n06 south. If climbed, it would cut out a huge chunk of the typical hike up to DBB.
Avy warning markers
Some comparison shots of our ice tools. The curvature of the Grivel Matrix tools (blue) is less extreme, which makes them better for alpine climbing. The Camp Awax tools have a more extreme angle, which makes them excellent for water ice and very steep routes.
Lightning left, Baldy Brew right
BB
Fritz getting used to using short tools on intermediate terrain
Movin' on up... to the top...
Mixed band at the top. While waiting for Fritz so I didn't dump (many
) rocks on him, I checked the solidity of it. Even large blocks could be moved without much pressure. I would do it roped if there was nobody below for a looooong way. We turned left.The bushwhack section, one tree that made climbing interesting.
Looking down Lightning. Note that huge slide area where a shitload of rock took a vacation. This is a very risky route overall, but safe in early season during cold weather while moving fast and light. Otherwise not recommended.
Fritz on the ridge
Here we are just north of the wall/face that Safety Dance climbs. There are a series of gullies that drop you down above the small waterfall near Lightning Couloir, where Big Butch Wash turns north and connects with the bottom of the lift and slopes on Thunder. We glissaded down this gully and got going pretty fast! Had a friggin' BLAST. I love it.
Lightning
A great short day trip!
Route page here: http://www.summitpost.org/route/600725/ ... m-ai2.html
