EISPIRATEN

I went up Baldy yesterday (2/2) via the Ski Hut trail and the middle of the bowl. While descending the west side of the bowl I nearly got taken out by a boulder the size of a toaster tumbling just 4 feet to my right. This thing was really moving, maybe 20-30 mph? Never heard or saw it coming since I was facing downhill.

So what do you guys do to minimize the ice/rock fall risk, other than not climbing in a bowl/chute? Is the risk higher during certain times of the day? Is it just a matter of luck? Why do you think so many people choose to climb the center part of the bowl if ice/rock fall is such a high risk?

Go when the sun isn't out, or go up a route where the sun does not hit any portion of the route. This is a problem on couloir routes and gullies etc. The sun thaws the ice holding rocks together... and ZOOM. I've got a few scars from recent rocks like yours hitting me. 8)

When rockfall is heavy, I usually stick to a ridge route, as the rockfall danger there is minimal, though you can end up sending rocks down on other folks if there are any in the area.

So, dawn, and dusk. No sun, typically less rockfall threat. Just gotta wear a helmet everytime.

About 25-30yrs ago a guy was killed by a large rock at the bottom of the bowl. He was with a Sierra Club group who were practicing self arrests during white-out conditions. No one saw nor heard the rock coming.

You can count on rock fall happening when the temp is above freezing and especially below the cliff bands to the climbers left side of the bowl.

The earlier you are out, the safer it is.