EISPIRATEN

On Sunday I climbed the gully right of the Falls which connected to the ski hut trail. It was pretty sketchy with a lot of mixed climbing. I want to do the other side to the top of the ridge. Any recommendations from people who've done this route before? It looks pretty steep and sketchy near the top and if you fall it's over.

I did the lower part several years ago with a rising traverse towards the normal ski hut trail. It was an adventuresome little variation! A little bushwacking, which is a fantastic character-building exercise with a snowboard strapped to the back, a couple of 70-80 degree, 5-7m rock bands to be climbed in crampons, and steep snow galore. It really was quite fun, and I do recommend it, but remember that the huge apron of that gully exist for a reason: the couloir is a notorious conduit of avalanches, both sloughs during storms and wet slides when it gets warm.

That's what I figured it to be. The gully on the other side of the falls was a lot like that except more like 50 degree 3-4m sections rock climb in crampons. Snow was very loose especially near the top in the steeper sections. It's tough since you know the only safe way down is to go all the way up through sketchy areas. Truly character building as you state. Perhaps right now is not the best time to climb this route since it seems like a lot of snow has melted this week exposing more loose rock to traverse and thinner snow to commit to while climbing the 70-80 degree point. Thanks for the 411

Hey, what's that finger pointing at?

Got any photos you took on the fun/dicey parts?

I was pointing to the route I climbed a couple weeks ago.

I didn't take very many pictures near the top since it required all of my concentration but here are a few about half way up.




This crack went all the way to the other side.


This is pretty much what you're holding on/ pushing off of.

I've had an eye on that same route for some time now. When we get a cold spell, we should go up and take another look at it. I know one other person who is interested in doing it.

FWIW (not much) the first half of this album shows you generally what to expect. You can probably skip the cliff bands if you're clever (don't have pictures of them).

Great pictorial story Hamik.

Which route did you climb several weeks ago?

EnFuego, Sounds like a plan keep me in the loop.

TacoDelRio, I climbed between the little rocks and the big rock on the left side.

Ah, gotcha. Dostie's Dare I reckon.