EISPIRATEN

I blew off work and joined fellow slackers Ellen, Norma R, Ryan (Taco), Patrick (lilbitmo), Zach, Matt and Vitaly (mve) on a fun climb up Mt Baldy via Baldy Bowl. Ryan tried a gnarly chute he'd been eyeing on the West side. He almost pulled it off unscathed before bringing down some good ol' San Gabe choss on him just before topping out which mangled up his arm a bit. The rest of us followed various paths up the main bowl. This was Ellen's first Bowl climb and she made it look as easy as Skyline!:) Conditions didn't warrant glissading down--a couple of inches of snow over blue ice in spots --so after tagging West Baldy we descended the normal ridge route back to the ski hut trail. Awesome day with a great group! Pix are here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/21042415@N ... 022429388/

Nice pics Dave. Some of those pics make it look pretty hard pack, but I guess it was still soft in spots for rock fall.

Nice job ladies and gents.

My thanks to Norma, Dave and all the participants

I recorded a GPS track, and wrote a bit of a tr: here

What a fine day on Baldy! Wish I could have joined y'all. Thanks for the great report and pictures.

wow, really nice! I'm very jealous.

and falling rock on Taco? that's deja vu all over again

Nice photos, looks like fun.

What time did you pass the ski hut on the way down? Did the snow get soft above the ski hut?

406 wrote:What time did you pass the ski hut on the way down?

I arrived at the Ski Hut @ 12:30pm, started back down @ 12:45PM

406 wrote: Did the snow get soft above the ski hut?

Yes or at least IMO

You can download my GPX file from Everytrail

Matt

406 wrote:What time did you pass the ski hut on the way down? Did the snow get soft above the ski hut?

i can't remember the time? noonish i think. the snow was even getting soft on the bowl on the way up. the blue ice was not. and yes it was mostly soft above the hut.

i left my camera in the car, so no pix's from me except for the ones i took with Patrick's camera.

great day for all except for Taco's arm.

Cool, thanks for the info. Figured it was getting soft with how warm it has been. Was asking because I'm thinking of skiing this weekend, will watch out for the blue ice...

Elwood and Gregp909: Thanks for getting us all sick so we could miss a day at work (I mean nice trip reports and pictures which kicked in our disease and glady got us all to miss work )

Ellen: Really proud of you for going up the bowl, I know it's scary for you after what happened in the past - and thanks for laughing at my bad jokes. It was my pleasure helping you navigate the "Blue Ice areas" on the way down, what goes around comes around and we all help each other, nice work.

Norma: Multiple thanks - one for sharing the camera - all the pictures came out great, two thanks for waiting up for me on the slug up the "Bowl" I'm the "Slow Poke" in that group (you guys rock), third thanks for being "Dave's Target" on all his bad jokes and for inviting me out to be "Sick" from work and then calling Ellen to include her. - I almost forgot, thanks for catching some of that "Ice Fall" with your leg's, if you had not it would have hit me in the face

Matt Maxon: Great to finally meet you, good talking with you on the trail, and nice job on your first winter ascent of the Baldy Bowl.

Dave G.: Thanks for starting the tred on this particular Trip Report, always fun sharing bad jokes with you on any trail and thanks for taking Ellen and Matt up with you ahead of Norma and I on the bowl You might want to start wearing your climbing helmet more when you make fun of Norma - she does carry an Ice Axe you know

MVE Vitale: Nice work on your first winter acent to the summit, that's always special, it was good to meet you and glad you got to know some of the more "insane hikers" on this message board

Zach: Glad you got a chance to try out those Ice Tools, good to do the bowl with you, we'll hit it again soon - or maybe do the ridgeline over to Iron, I know it's calling your name and mine.

Taco: What can I say, you are an animal out there on those "tougher Couloir's", I'll say it again (but I mean nothing bad about it) thanks for coming with us up the bowl as the rock and ice fall went "winging past" me on my ascent and approach (not the same one that he and Zach did) I felt so much safer knowing you were on the mountain as you know that all that rock/ice fall tends to find you before me, so it makes me feel safer. But at the same time I feel bad that you come away with blood dripping from an elbow or an arm, that part sucks, hope you are OK today

Bertfivesix: it was great to finally put a face with all your post, good to talk to you at the Ski Hut on the way down. Will see you out there again soon. Sorry you took a couple of shots from the "Ice Fall" as well, it's never fun to get hit in sensitive areas

Steve: Not a member of this board but good enought to chat with all of us at the summit and thanks for taking the group pictures of all of us - hope to see you soon and hope you join this board we are a fun group.

In general that was one of the best days on that mountain I've ever had, great fun people to hike with, great conversations, fun challenging conditions on the bowl, conditions were perfect in most other areas with just a little blue ice to watch out for, nice to hit West Baldy after the summit and everyone came away safe with only Taco's scrape on his arm - so it was a very successful day - nice work everyone and see you out there again soon.

Norma/Patrick's pictures here: http://s728.photobucket.com/albums/ww28 ... =slideshow

Nice going everyone! I wish I could of played hooky from work.

Can anyone tell me how the snow coverage was on the backbone ridge to Pine Mountain?

Howdy All

Thanks to everyone for taking me up the bowl 8)

Dave -- regarding my uphill pace -- dude, I was following you I really appreciated the route guidance.

Norma -- loved your howling on the bowl. I'm looking forward to spending more time in the mountains with you.

Patrick -- it was great to rmeet my goal of reaching a summit with you before the end of the year. You are hilarious and I look forward to hiking with you again soon. Thanks for your assistance and patience on the descent.

Ryan -- it was wonderful to finally meet the Big Kahuna Taco and congratulate you on your numerous climbing exploits. Really, you didn't need to impress me by sporting a bloody body part Hope it heals quickly and doesn't interfere with your climbing.

Zach -- great talking with you while I slipped and slided on the melting snow as we came down from the hut. Thanks for hanging with me.

Matt -- congratulations -- nothing like doing Baldy the hard way

Vitaly -- great job and sorry I called you by the wrong name at the summit. I'm going to blame the hypoxia.

Miles of smiles,
Ellen

GigaMike wrote:Can anyone tell me how the snow coverage was on the backbone ridge to Pine Mountain?

Dave G is the only one that wondered over to the sign and thus the ridgeline leading down to Pine and Dawson, I'm sure he took some photo's over there so try to get him to tell you what he saw, pictures don't always tell the whole story, if the ridgeline between Baldy and West Baldy are any indication, it was very icy at the edges, very icy. Everyone stayed on the downhill side (safe side) while traversing over to West Baldy. The wind has made the narrowest parts very slick. Are you going over Baldy to Pine or going to traverse from the Acorn Trail in Wrightwood over the top of Pine, Dawson to Badly?

Sounds like fun either way

Thanks, Patrick!

I'll probably head up the Baldy Bowl then over to Dawson & Pine and back. Maybe a few others too if the snow doesn't wear me out.

GigaMike wrote:I'll probably head up the Baldy Bowl then over to Dawson & Pine and back. Maybe a few others too if the snow doesn't wear me out.

That's a trip report I look forward to. Are you going Saturday? Cannot wait to see those pictures.

Great trip guys! Lots of fun hanging with the whole crew...

Interestingly enough, when I went back to the summit to meet what I thought was Taco and Bert I ran into calicokat and his friend instead. (It was nice meet you two.) After chatting I turned to leave and was shocked to see the bloodied and battered Taco (and an unscathed Bert) walking the last few steps to the summit.

Also, with literally fumes in my tank (stupid miscalculation) I was able to cruise the ENTIRE way down the mountain until I hit a light at Padua

I had great time and truly enjoyed meeting everyone! Here's my version of the TR (can't wait to read Ryan's account of the climb!):

-- Strapping on the Crampons --

Strapping on the crampons and having a quick bite at the Ski Hut before heading out for the top.

Left to right: Matt, Dave, Ryan, Zach (in the background putting on crampons), Patrick


-- "Rock & Roll" --

While everyone in our party attacked Baldy head on via various routes directly up the Bowl I took the normal (easier) route up to the summit across the "Rock & Roll" basin of the Baldy's Bowl and up to the Western ridge.

This is what it looks like now in the winter -- and it's much easier to travel through then it was in summer.


-- Ellen, Norma R, Dave and Matt? --

Can you see the tiny four specks on the slope of the Bowl?


-- I thought it was Zach ... --

I was trying to spot Ryan and Zach on the West slope of the Bowl when I noticed this climber, I was pretty sure it was Zach until I got home and was able to zoom in to see the blue shovel strapped to the back of the pack so it was actually bertfivesix (sorry can't remember the real name).


-- Looking down at the base of the ridge I am on ... --

As I gained the base of ridge from the "Rock &Roll" basin I took my new La Sportiva Nepals EVO's off and tried to dial in the lacing to stop the dreaded "heel lift".

I then approached the ridge and decided to travel right on the crest so I could enjoy the views of the Bowl (the normal trail stays a bit to the left).

At this point it got so hot that I took my jacket and hat off. I was wishing I had side zips on my pants because it was still too hot.


-- Zach topping out at the ridge --

I reached the top point on the ridge and started making my way up towards the summit when I heard screams behind me ...

I turned and saw Zach topping out on the ridge -- he was alone. I was pretty far out and didn't want to down climb back to him so I started to shout bunch of questions at him wishing to know what happened and if he and Ryan were OK.

I quickly realized he was so taxed by the climb that he couldn't master the strength to shout back at me so I just waited till he regained his breathing ... In few minutes he managed to climb up to my position and tell me that Ryan and him split up with Ryan attempting a very steep and dangerous route.

I also learned that bertfivesix had met Ryan and Zach at the Ski Hut right before they attacked the Bowl and was now somewhere on the Bowl possibly with Ryan. Zach was concerned about them saying that the route they were attempting was extremely steep and dangerous.

The route Zach took also ended up very steep and it taxed his calves. He told me that the only time he was able to get some rest was when he found a flat dent in the slope created by a huge rock that fell from the top.


-- Surreal --

Sun and two trees


-- Zach plodding ahead --

Despite having completed a steep route Zach managed to floor it on this section.


-- Snow covered trees --

The huge chunks of ice that keep on falling from the trees are massive, don't even think of getting anywhere near them.


-- Entering the Alpine territory --

As the trees recede so is the oxygen -- this is the area where I start to feel the effects of high altitude. Hydration is the only remedy and I was glad I brought my 3L camelback with me instead of two Nalgene bottles I was planning switching to in the winter.


-- Summit team --

Left to right: Zach, Norma R, Matt, Dave, Ellen and Steve


-- Topped out --

Self "mug shoot" at the summit of Baldy


-- West Baldy --

Dave suggested we visit "West Baldy" which we did ...

-- Frozen sign of "Devil's Backbone Trail" at Mt Baldy --


-- Looking down from the Summit of West Baldy --


-- Summit break at West Baldy --

Left to right: Ellen, Matt, Norma R


-- Getting ready to head back from West Baldy --


-- Frozen landscape on Mt Baldy --


-- Going back to Mt Baldy Summit from West Baldy --

At this point our party broke up into two groups -- Dave, Norma R, Ellen, Patrick and Matt decided to descent bypassing return to Baldy Summit.

Zach and I headed back to Baldy Summit to check if it was Ryan and bertfivesix that were now at the summit.

The two specks on the left are what I thought were Ryan and bertfivesix and the third one on the right is Zach approaching. Zach seemed to have some kind of supercharger -- we'd start off together and the next thing I knew he was out ahead of me.


-- Finally Ryan and bertfivesix! --

The two guys that were at the baldy Summit (see previous picture) were not Ryan and bertfivesix so Zach and I decided to head down the ridge to see if we run into them.

Sure enough we did ...

-- "Bloody" Ryan --

Ryan was covered in grime and blood and his left elbow seemed a bit larger than the right one but he seemed just fine smiling and telling us that eventually the Mountain told him it was time to back off. He still wanted to tag the summit so we turned back towards Baldy (for the third time today).


-- Back at the Baldy Summit --

Left to right: Most friendly dog, [Dude with the big camera, sorry forgot the name], Ryan, Zach, bertfivesix

After Ryan and bertfivesix tagged the Summit, bertfivesix attempted to test this tent setup with the deadmans to no avail -- the snow was ice. It was getting too cold and we decided to head just below the summit for a quick bite to eat.

Right around this time I realized that my water supply was on the last few drops so I didn't eat anything. We stayed just below the summit for 15 or so minutes and headed back down the ridge.


-- Snow covered Ridge of Mt Baldy --

Once again I tried to stay right at the crest of ridge enjoying the views and untouched snow. It was exhilarating being on the crest and looking down these steep chutes.


-- We meet again --

Somehow we managed to meet with the rest of the team back at the hut. They just finished taking off their crampons and were getting ready to head down the Ski Nut trail when I arrived. Zach arrived before me and was getting everyone up to speed with Ryan's adventure.

Ryan and bertfivesix were 2-3 minutes behind me. Apparently bertfivesix was fighting nasty case of leg cramps and Ryan stayed with him the whole time despite his own, shall we say "less than optimal" condition.

When Ryan and bertfivesix arrived the rest of the group took off with Zach after making sure Ryan was OK. Ryan, bertfivesix and I stayed for another 15 minutes during which I foolishly took my crampons off and Ryan ate some cheese sticks he had in his pack.

Ryan invited me to join him, bertfivesix and Zach at the Baldy Village for beer but unfortunately I had to decline as I wanted to beat the traffic heading home to LA.


-- Ski Hut trail below the snowline --

It was pretty mushy down here after the snow melted away and left the soil moist and soggy.


-- Views from the Ski Hut trail --


-- Back at the Ski Lift road ... --

We exited the Ski Hut trail and headed back to the parking lot taking a quick break at the falls. Looking back at Baldy towering over us ...


-- Winter vs Summer Ski Hut Trail GPS Track --

Here's an overlay of Summer vs Winter GPS tracks on the most difficult section of the Ski Hut Trail (West Ridge). Notice how the Winter ascent (blue track) is much more direct.


For larger versions of the above picture you can visit my flickr album:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mvephotos/ ... 898115253/

Vitale, way to capture the day, great pictures, thanks for sharing them.

That was quite a group! Hey Taco and Zach, which couloirs did you climb? You truly are a rock magnet Taco, anything more than a little blood and swelling? Take it easy dude.

If you're facing the bowl, Taco climbed this narrow, chossy split in this jutting rock (i wouldn't even call it a couloir) almost at the very western end of the bowl. I climbed up the second chute to the right of that between 2 prominent rocks that form a notch-looking thing. Taco can probably put up a photo with the lines overlaid...

Lilbitmo: thanks for those tools, they came in quite "handy"

Norma: that hot chocolate was dee-lish, thanks!

Ellen: thanks for chatting with me as a hobbled back on that sore heel

Sorry I missed the festivities. Looks like you all had a blast, except for Taco who had (yet another) San Gabriel bang up.

Love the surreal sun and two trees shot!

Hello all.....I am in the guy with the big camera in the picture.....I went solo up to the summit yesterday upon meeting a few of you on top. I have some photos of Taco's arm that I will post as soon as I get them uploaded.

It was a beautiful day, there is some solid ice (Ice Axe and Crampons barely penetrated) mixed in with loose snow so be careful if climbing this weekend

I have GOT to get out more ! That looked like a blast. How do you bums get out of work in the middle of the week !?

Awesome! Looks like you all had a great time!

It's strange, at dinner tonight I was telling my brother-in-law about winter climbing and the gear needed and I mentioned a helmet and that surprised him so I told him about Ryan's rock accident on lighting and then I get on here tonight to see the "Redux" picture. . .

Ryan, sorry you have to keep being our safety reminder -- get well soon.

Anyone on skis?

Nice job guys. I think I saw a bunch of you coming down that day. I started around 1:30pm and only had time to get to the ski hut before I had to turn around. I brought my Border Collie with me.

Great TR's everyone! they were fun to read. it was a wonderful day on old San Antonio and really nice to meet others from the board. what a great and supportive group we had.

one more thing i wanted to mention... that rime ice that is falling off the trees is dangerous. ice was whizzing by constantly. i didn't bring my helmet but wished i had after i got hit in the face, arm and finally the calf. i am sporting a bruise on the calf. at one point Patrick and i heard what sounded like rockfall as we were climbing only to see a HUGE chunk of ice falling. those going to climb the bowl this weekend, might consider wearing their helmets.

and Winston, we saw you on the road and that was me that commented on how pretty your dog is.

This was borrowed from someone here probably Taco. And so the route he climbed was further to the west (left) than even this picture shows? Is your route on here zach? They all look so much fun that I just want to make some laps (2 or 3Xs) in a day before the sun warms it up and starts dropping crap.

bluerail wrote: How do you bums get out of work in the middle of the week !?

I'm enjoying my 3rd month of funemployment!

But my refrain on the summit was "I wonder what the poor people are doing today?"

This tune was in my head....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hallelujah,_I%27m_a_Bum

I don't mean to name a route or line after myself (especially since I didn't finish it), but when you put enough blood on a route, it kinda makes sense. Taco Sauce. STEEP snow to 75 degrees, ice in short vertical steps (consistently 70 degrees-ish), easy mixed steps. SUPER cool route. Did not complete it, as part of the crux headwall or something as big as me tore off above me. I had both of my tools planted in hard ice on the crux when I heard a very loud noise. I got down to protect myself, but then realized I was partially airborne or something. I feel about 6ft down on steep hard ice and self arrested with my hammer in hand and my adze still planted on the crux, partly holding me up by the leash. That was the first real rockfall I'd seen during the day. Go figure. It felt and looked like a cheap, dramatic climbing movie. I would've been in trouble if I didn't arrest.

Downclimbed, then traversed out onto a steep fan of good hard snow and some ice, trying to bypass the route or something. It looked like it was going to turn into some mega exposed mixed climbing, and I wasn't feeling up to that for obvious reasons, so I backed off, downclimbed, and carefully made my way out of the route without incident.

Traversed right, climbed up Dostie's Dare, then towards summit, where I met up with Bert, and later Zach and Vitaly.


Some pics from the rock magnet:


Topo


Zach doing some high end climbing a few trillion feet of the deck


The gang going up to the Hut


My route, with Dostie's Dare to the right


Dave n' Zach


Met up with Bert


Heading to the route



Zach


Bert being Bert


The route

Right side




Steepness








Good ice all around


Spur on right



Nice view


Climbing


Exit (nope)


Self check


Evidence of prior rockfall


Crux up ahead


Down


WHAM!




Crux, which I fell from.


Cool bloody pic


Climbed this to try to bypass. No go. Steep snow, felt good.


Exit, and Dostie's Dare



Dostie's Dare


Out of the Bowl


Battle Damage


Bert


A look back from the hut



It was great meeting y'all! Had a great time. I've got more to say but I can't think worth a damn, as I just had nose surgery and my face wants to explode, and the "good pills" make me vomit a lot.

Thanks for the memories, guys!