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Fixed Rope? Top Rope? Static?
Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 11:20 pm
by CMC-OC
I'm not quite sure what to call this:
A rope that is anchored securely to the top of a section of area to climb. It then hangs down the climbing face and is in front of the climber where he/she can begin climbing.
Is that clear? It's not doubled up or anything, just a rope that hangs from the "ceiling" to the "floor." (though this situation isn't in-doors).
How would one go about belaying yourself as you climb up?
The rappel would be a simple: thread it through ATC and feed it through as you walk down, correct? Assuming you don't need to worry about the anchor after the fact.
Re: Fixed Rope? Top Rope? Static?
Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 1:26 am
by platypii
If I'm understanding your set up correctly, that's a situation where you could top rope solo. (not sure if there is a better term than that, but "top rope solo" gives plenty of correct results on google...) The rope is generally called a fixed line.
Basically you attach a gri-gri or a jumar (one-way belay device), and then feed the rope through as you go up. If you fall the device will hopefully lock-off and you will be held by the fixed line. DISCLAIMER: Very few devices are "approved" for this kind of use!
The best way to get the rope to feed through the device is if you anchor the bottom of the fixed line, either to the rock with protection, or even just hanging a haul bag on the bottom. This tension on the line allows the rope to feed through the device without you having to pull it thru by hand.
Of course once the rope is fixed at the bottom, rappelling back down on it may no longer be an option (because of the tension). There are several techniques that work for getting down a tensioned line, which I will leave as an exercise for the reader
Re: Fixed Rope? Top Rope? Static?
Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 1:28 am
by CMC-OC
Exactly the information I was looking for! Thanks alot.
Re: Fixed Rope? Top Rope? Static?
Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 5:30 am
by Taco
Re: Fixed Rope? Top Rope? Static?
Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 6:03 am
by mattmaxon
CMC-OC wrote:I'm not quite sure what to call this:
A rope that is anchored securely to the top of a section of area to climb. I
Yeah you're ascending a fixed rope....
Lots of ways to do it
The least expensive is using Prussics, depending on how much you're gonna do (caving) there are more elaborate (efficient) setups
But ascending a fixed rope with prussic's should be in everyone's tool box.
I for one prefer
Wild Country Ropeman Mk 2 The Mk 2 accepts ropes to 8mm while Mk 1 is limited to 10mm