EISPIRATEN

Looking for beta in 2 areas:

Pt Dume: the guide book says its not a "destination" climbing spot. If anyone's been there and climbed, is it worth making it a destination (is the beach nice enough to spend the day there?)

Big Rock: I'm a newbie. Is this crag too crowded or doable (let's say on a friday morning)?

Appreciate it!

Big Rock gets hot, so go on a cool day. It can get crowded, so weekdays are best, if you can manage. It's mostly (or all) slab climbing. Only trad route there I've tried or known about is Rat Crack 5.9 on the left. One aid route as well, a traverse.

Point dume: climbed there a few times. Get there early, the easier face (5.8's and such) gets booked up pretty early on, and they tend to sit there all day. The rock is greasy but still pretty fun, ocean side even more greasy. MOST people top rope all of the routes, need a good chunk of webbing for that. If all you are looking to do is climb all day and do some leading, then malibu creek is a better option in the area. If you're lookin to hang out at the beach do some climbing and look at chicks this is the spot for you.

Also, if someone is filming at the base of the cliff (happens often), they cannot kick you out, even if they have a permit. Don't take their shit!