20090102 Telegraph Peak West Face FINALLY!!!!!!!
Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 2:33 pm
"One Nut Wonder", 640M 5.7 AI3
ROute page: http://www.summitpost.org/route/476799/ ... 7-AI3.html
YAESHT!
Fourth shot at this route. Alex was interested in it and called me up, so we headed up there early.
Either a funnelweb spider or a young tarantula at Cedar Glen CG. Really cool.
Alex moving up
Myself in lead battle gear, full battle rattle
Alex
"...over yonder!"
Alex
Looking up
Approaching the crux
Tried to send the crux on the right side. Made it up a short bit with no crampons on, fired in a #4 TCU under a flake, and ended up backing off so Alex could try his hand/s at the left side crack.
Alex lead up, put a Metolius #8 curve nut in the crack, and made it up in crampons. Really badass job, Alex! I followed, fell three times, smashing my left testicle, which felt like I had my balls in a burning vice. This is where the route get's it's name. One nut in, one nut gone.
Alex sending
Belay ledge
Easy stuff beyond
Us moving up beyond
Bizzniss
Neat towers
Alex resting
Moving up
My ass
Alex's ass
Alex topped out
Views
Alex brought bagels, and tuna. Also, some oranges. I brought a few cereal bars and the other half of the Ritter Alpine Milk Chocolate bar I had on Lightning Couloir.
Ah, the descent! Do you like Buckthorn (or Buckhorn, whatever)? A lot? Well, look no further! We'll even throw in we submerged rocks and logs under a few feet of powder snow, sometimes covered in an inch of thin ice that supports weight for a moment! Claw your way through these friendly plants while the other bits try to snap your legs!
Kudos to Alex for postholing his way through the day. That part sucked quite a bit..
WOOOOOOO
ROute page: http://www.summitpost.org/route/476799/ ... 7-AI3.html
YAESHT!
Fourth shot at this route. Alex was interested in it and called me up, so we headed up there early.
Either a funnelweb spider or a young tarantula at Cedar Glen CG. Really cool.
Alex moving up
Myself in lead battle gear, full battle rattle
Alex
"...over yonder!"
Alex
Looking up
Approaching the crux
Tried to send the crux on the right side. Made it up a short bit with no crampons on, fired in a #4 TCU under a flake, and ended up backing off so Alex could try his hand/s at the left side crack.
Alex lead up, put a Metolius #8 curve nut in the crack, and made it up in crampons. Really badass job, Alex! I followed, fell three times, smashing my left testicle, which felt like I had my balls in a burning vice. This is where the route get's it's name. One nut in, one nut gone.
Alex sending
Belay ledge
Easy stuff beyond
Us moving up beyond
Bizzniss
Neat towers
Alex resting
Moving up
My ass
Alex's ass
Alex topped out
Views
Alex brought bagels, and tuna. Also, some oranges. I brought a few cereal bars and the other half of the Ritter Alpine Milk Chocolate bar I had on Lightning Couloir.
Ah, the descent! Do you like Buckthorn (or Buckhorn, whatever)? A lot? Well, look no further! We'll even throw in we submerged rocks and logs under a few feet of powder snow, sometimes covered in an inch of thin ice that supports weight for a moment! Claw your way through these friendly plants while the other bits try to snap your legs!
Kudos to Alex for postholing his way through the day. That part sucked quite a bit..
WOOOOOOO
