EISPIRATEN

This is more of an "adventure climb", than a pure rock climb. i say this because we all know the rock quality up in the SG's, and there is a small amount of bushwhacking to the "base" of the climb.

My buddies Marc and Dustin and I are planning on climbing this route pretty much as soon as the ANF opens up. Just a clear, warm weather climb. Should be done in half to three-quarters of a day, tops.

Route image:

Parking near that porta potty on R39. Route goes up Lost Canyon, then heads direct west up towards the rock section, then if all goes well, up the rock to the south summit. Probably bushwhack down southeast ridge.

Pictures:






Anyone up for this?

(Will be done prior to Twin Peaks climb... conditions and USFS opening pending)


Meeting at my place at 0600. I can fit two people aside from myself in my truck... so yeah... Takes 30min or so to get from my place to the spot.

Out of curiosity, what's the class?

Class 2-3 up to the base (bushwhack), and probably low-5th class on the way up. Best guess is average 5.6 on the way up the fun part. I usually pick an easier, safer route on the first time up any given section.

Are you planning on going up that drainage in the last picture? Much steeper than 5.6!

AW wrote:Are you planning on going up that drainage in the last picture? Much steeper than 5.6!

Steeper than 5.6? I usually think of class as referring to the technical difficulty of a particular route, not the steepness. If the hand holds/foot holds are obvious and easy, then vertical can be class 3. For example, I recently went to the base of upper Devils Canyon falls, descending a ~20' near vertical wall. The hand holds and foot holds were fairly obivious and didn't require a lot of technique. I think that I'd classify that near vertical wall as high class 3, maybe low class 4.

Grading is a very personal system. 8)

I'm guessing around 5.6. Low fifth class, basically.

Ryan,

Do you plan to take any protection for this route?

5.6(http://www.climber.org/data/decimal.html)is 2 footholds&2handholds on a vertical climb, but thats besides the point since there arent any holds on the 50+ft dropS in that drainage. Its one thing to say things are always easy once you get there and then another thing to say theres a way up when you are looking at a steep cut in a wall.

I am thinking some of the stuff suggested here in the forums is bordering on ridiculous. Ive seen this drainage with my own eyes and this is no 5.6 climb or even close to a climb. These are high-angle drops with a lack of natural anchorage that drop quickly(and quite smoothly) into a wash and should be treated with the proper planning of bringing ropes and technical equipment.

Whatever AW. I'll find out soon enough. it's not the first time I've done this kinda stuff. As said, I used 5.6 as a round figure.

Learn by doing.

Augie wrote:Ryan,

Do you plan to take any protection for this route?

Slings and usual rappelling gear. If it looks like it'll be too much, then it'll be bypassed and I'll use the time to take photos for later.

Looks quite interesting. Nevertheless, to avoid an epic....be prepared!
Motto of the boy scouts.....

Scout trip coming up... soon as the ANF opens!

Going on a scout tomorrow... machete sharpened and ready.

Might find a way to TR this thing, hopefully to that big block.

Putting this trip off for awhile, when I regain some motivation. Just kinda not feeling it (or anything).

Yeah, there are definitely days like that. Of course sometimes a "down day" is pretty good.

Had a lot lately. In a bit of a funk. Oh well, more time to research more junk.

Ooooh, rhymes. 8)

TacoDelRio wrote:Had a lot lately. In a bit of a funk. Oh well, more time to research more junk.

Ooooh, rhymes. 8)

What you need is a good adventure. I am trying to get my wife to be OK with me hiking all day this Sunday so I can hike Olancha with Tom and others, but it doesn't look good. I am also still planning to give Baldy via Bighorn a try. I did get an OK from my wife for a morning hike Sunday, as long as I am back by noon. I figure I can start hiking at 5:30 am and still get in a decent hike. Do you want to do something with me? No definite plans yet. I wouldn't mind hitting a few of the San Gabriel peaks I have left to hike and grable lunch at Newcomb Ranch (have you done up a page for this yet?).

Chear up man! and join us for our Thanksgiving San Jacinto peakbagging trip on 11/24.

TacoDelRio wrote:Had a lot lately. In a bit of a funk. Oh well, more time to research more junk.

Been there, bro. Sux. Two words of advice:
-Isolation is the solution to nothing
-Get out there

At least that's my experience for what it's worth.

Travis... sounds neat! I'm up for Bighorn Ridge after this weekend.

I should make that Newcomb's Ranch page... still haven't put pen to paper with it. Gonna hafta put up a few route pages, such as the strenuous Chiliburger (5.13b)... or so it felt coming back up.

Hikin_Jim, I'm headed out tomorrow to do some light climbing up on Smith Rock near this area. Might give this a shot if I feel it.

Go for it, bro.

Guess that isn't happening! Got a tad sick last night. Damn screwdrivers.