20071023 Keller Peak - Trad Climbing

Post by **Taco** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 4:09 pm

My buddy and I were bored at 10pm on the 22nd, and had nothing to the next day. Every so often, we go off on random trips, sometimes to the desert to go shooting, or camping, etc.

We decided to go check out some rock climbing opportunities around Big Bear, so I could use the guidebook (SoCal Sport, by Mayr). We headed up to Keller Peak, parked in front of the Hungover Wall, and aimed the Baja lights onto the wall to light it up. I tried to do a 5.10c or something, but failed pretty much right away. We camped out further uproad, and temps were nice.

Almost contacting the ground

Typical affair for redneck midnight trad/sport climbing

Artsy stuff

Breakfast

Went back to Hungover Wall, and went north and around it to the west to see what else was out there. Found a nice crack, so I went up it, placing two nuts, with no real options for an anchor up top. It was about 5.7 or whatever, with the crux lower down, which I aided with a sling because I suck or something, etc. Top anchor for rappel was a chockstone about the size of a baseball, which I wrapped a sling around. The sling is still there. I'm sure the Toyota Prius gods will kill me for leaving one up there.

Slanting crack far right

Closer

Looking down

Looking around from up top of the Hungover Wall formation...

More pics from somewhere nearby

Went to Children's Forest or something, and took the wrong way to the climbing area. Short detour. Go straight, don't go right, at this sign:

Some pics

A fun night and day. The rock is similar to what I can remember of my two trips to Joshua Tree, except not 120 degrees. It's a bit sharp, lotsa crystals and whatnot, with some unexpected features.

This outing was sponsored by Sig Sauer, Coors Light, and Russian Standard Vodka.

Post by **Hikin_Jim** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 4:45 pm

TacoDelRio wrote:We decided to go check out some rock climbing opportunities around Big Bear...

What?! Taco Del Rio outside of Icehouse Canyon/Hwy 39? Unthinkable!

TacoDelRio wrote:...This outing was sponsored by Sig Sauer, Coors Light, and Russian Standard Vodka.

Thank God it wasn't non-standard!

Cool pix, bro. Looks like good rock.

Not that I'm a climber, but I'm looking forward to doing the standard class 3 route on Castle Rock near Big Bear on 11/1.

kgw · Post by **kgw** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 7:53 pm

Get around, get around, We get around! 8)

Post by **HikeUp** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 7:55 pm

Cool stuff. Taking it up a notch - climbing at night, on purpose!

Post by **Taco** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 10:28 pm

Jim, I didn't have to pay for gas, so I could afford to go far.

I am a mooch.

406 · Post by **406** » Fri Oct 24, 2008 8:47 am

TacoDelRio wrote:The rock is similar to what I can remember of my two trips to Joshua Tree, except not 120 degrees. It's a bit sharp, lotsa crystals and whatnot, with some unexpected features

Yeah some of it is a bit hard on the hands, but you can find more fine grained stuff, sometimes right next to the sharp stuff. Have you climbed in the Holcomb valley area ( just north of Big Bear lake valley)? I love it up there.

406 · Post by **406** » Fri Oct 24, 2008 8:48 am

p.s. nice pics, looks like fun! But I like PBR better than coors

Post by **Taco** » Fri Oct 24, 2008 5:18 pm

I haven't been to Holcomb Valley in a long time. That was our backup plan if Keller Peak Rd was closed.

Coors is good drinking beer. I prefer Asahi Kuronama myself, but it's too expensive. I haven't actually had PBR!!! Last time I tried to get some, it was after 2am, so they wouldn't let us buy it (thank you, California!).