Ice Axes!

Clothes, tools, technology, nutrition, training, techniques, etc.
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Funyan005
Posts: 203
Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2008 11:17 pm

Post by Funyan005 »

So theres a sale going on at REI right now, and they have this ice axe..

http://www.rei.com/product/736535

for 49.93.

Now, I'm curious, since I haven't seen this axe in store, if anyone knows anything about it, the company, whatever. It seems it has a shorter head(I believe thats what they call it) compared to say this...

http://www.rei.com/product/767353

I figured that I'd just go in and buy one of BD or Petzl's axes, but if they have one for that cheap, its worth picking up. I'm not worried about the extra weight that some of the reviews have, but just curious about functionality and all that jibber jabber.

What I'm really kind of looking for as far as your guys' opinion, is a few things

I'm 5'11, what height should I be looking for? I plan on doing just basic mountaineering, baldy, the like, nothing fancy.
As far as the price, should I be worried? Not as well made? Anything?

Thanks in advance! Crampon questions coming next!
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Taco
Snownado survivor
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Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:35 pm

Post by Taco »

My buddy Bert has the REI Brenva. It is made by Grivel. Grivel makes great stuff, and you really can't go wrong with their gear.

I like it MORE than my Black Diamond Raven.

It is rather hard to screw up a general mountaineering axe. The Raven is right as it should be, and there's really no room for improvement on it, IMHO. That said, the Brenva feels better in my hand, has a nicer adze, and a better spike (all my opinions, obviously).

Steel head and spike, aluminium shaft, and you're good to go. These both have those features.

Hold the axe by the head, and generally if the tip of the spike goes down to your ankle, that's about right. I'm 6'4", I use a 75cm and an 80cm axe, and for most stuff, I really like the longer one (hits the floor for me). You might find you like a shorter or longer one. For what you like, the easier stuff, I go with a longer axe.
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406
Posts: 324
Joined: Thu Jan 17, 2008 10:36 am

Post by 406 »

In theory the REI CroMoly could rust and also weighs a little more than the black diamond. But if your just day hiking a few times each season, probably doesn't matter.

Don't know anything about rei quality, but black diamond makes good stuff.

You can get a bd raven for $49, plus no sales tax:
http://www.backcountryoutlet.com/outlet ... mv_pc=r126

Disclaimer: I'm a black diamond slut ( and don't like rei ).
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Funyan005
Posts: 203
Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2008 11:17 pm

Post by Funyan005 »

Awesome. Thanks for the info and the link to the webpage for the 49% raven. I'll likely be buying that. Now to just go figure out my size
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KathyW
Posts: 212
Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 9:00 pm

Post by KathyW »

Here's a good place to comparison shop:

http://www.spadout.com/c/ice-axes/

sometimes you can pick up really good deals at steepandcheap.com, but you never know in advance what they'll have for sale.
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Tim
Posts: 560
Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 8:55 pm

Post by Tim »

I have a Raven Pro. I like the lighter weight, especially when plunging and lifting the axe over and over again while climbing. To me it feels comfortable while holding in the self-arrest grip (adze forward) but not so comfortable in the self-belay grip (pick forward). I normally hold my axe in the self-arrest grip the whole time anyway, so it's not an issue to me.

The stainless steel head is nice for not having to worry about corrosion. With my chromoly steel Grivel crampons I have to disassemble them after each trip, wash them down and then dry them to prevent rust.
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phydeux
Posts: 58
Joined: Thu Nov 22, 2007 5:52 pm

Post by phydeux »

REI's axes are good for general use. I've got a 20 year old REI model made by La Prade thats got a stamped steel-alloy head and spike (probably heat treated), riveted to an aluminum shaft. I carry it even in summer, since it makes a great all-around tool (digging, tarp pole, monopod, etc.). Some superficial rust on the ends, but the rivets are still tight and I'm not worried about if failing. Strange thing about it: until recently it was lighter than most of the axes on the market.
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bertfivesix
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Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 3:29 pm

Post by bertfivesix »

Like Taco mentioned, I have the REI Brenva.

I'm about 5'11" and I've found it just right (I can't remember for sure, but I think I have the 65cm - when held standing upright, the spike touches my ankle). From trying it out in-store, I liked it better than the Raven (price wasn't really a concern), especially the spike.

I've beaten it up pretty good in one short season, and it's held up beautifully. Through neglect it got a few tiny specks of surface rust, but nothing a wipedown with CLP can't fix. Doesn't affect it functionally.

The BD Raven is nice, but I liked the spike design and gripping comfort of the REI/Grivel more. Try it out for yourself, though - YMMV.
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