A friend got permits for Mount Goode, but couldn't go because of some injuries (that's no Goode....), so I recruited Jim last minute to come with me. We hiked in Friday night in the dark to set up camp at the south end of Long Lake, so as to get an early start and beat the threat of thunderstorms predicted the next afternoon. That next morning we woke up bright and early, before 6, and got hiking by 7 or so, making it the 2ish miles cross country across Margaret lake, and then through a big talus field, and then through a bit of snow at the base of the north buttress. Luckily with the sun on the snow it was soft enough to kick in steps, and my nut tool allowed me to carve in some foot steps. Apparently later in the season this thing is icy solid and needs crampons, but I guess we timed it well. It took a little over 2 hours to get there from camp, but Jim is recovering from a foot injury so was moving slower than usual. The climb itself was pretty exciting: with a 70m we could link the first two pitches with a tad bit of simulclimbing, in order to establish a belay at the base of the headwall. Typically the normal 5.9 route would call for traversing climbers left, but instead we decided to do the harder and more direct 5.11 variation that went straight up, and around left of an inverted slab roof. It did not feel like 5.11, but the next 5.10 pitch up an orange headwall did. It had some overhung if not straight vertical off width movement which topped out upon a column, after which I traversed behing a pinnacle to set up another belay. From there it was 1 or 2 more 70m long pitches to the true summit, where I took this video below. Apparently some day hiker from across the way got some pics of us, but I don't know where they are. Really awesome climb, very scenic trailhead and hike, and relatively easy, at around 2k ft gain from trailhead to base of climb, and 1k of climbing, then a descent upon some talus but mostly soft sand (to the south west) and then back to the main trail which took us back to camp. Next time I gotta bring my fishing pole, because Long lake had some big ass trout (no big ass ham was spotted unfortunately).
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/1 ... -variation
mount goode, north buttress, deluxe variation, 5.11 1000ft
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wesweswes
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Matthew
- Supercaff
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Yooo you look hot af in that pic on the peak!
I'm so stoked to have tried alpine climbing so now we can just post tons of that on this forum and make it poppin on here again! That looks so beautiful to climb up, added it to my to-do list for when I get good. I backpacked to that area when I was a young child with my dad and brother and the scenery was especially gorgeous. Well done!
I'm so stoked to have tried alpine climbing so now we can just post tons of that on this forum and make it poppin on here again! That looks so beautiful to climb up, added it to my to-do list for when I get good. I backpacked to that area when I was a young child with my dad and brother and the scenery was especially gorgeous. Well done!
stoke is high