Chaos at Covington Flats (Joshua Tree)

TRs for desert ranges.
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Sean
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Post by Sean »

On Saturday Cecelia and I drove to Joshua Tree in the afternoon.
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She wanted to see the famous sculptures, Simi Dabah and Transmission, along Sunfair Road.
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I wanted to bag Quail Mountain, the highest summit in Joshua Tree National Park. Based on a small amount of research, I figured we could camp at Upper Covington Flat and hit the trail/route early Sunday morning.

After touring the sculptures, we last-minute shopped at the little market in town, then in the dark we drove to Upper Covington. One other car was parked at the remote trailhead, but they soon drove off, leaving me and Cecelia all by ourselves.

Now, since the moment we rolled into the desert, it had been very windy. The happy man at Simi Dabah even apologized for the weather (as if it was his fault). And sure enough, the cold wind followed us to Upper Covington.

Cecelia stayed warm in the car while I set up the tent, table and chairs in a clearing nearby. The weather hadn't decided to full-blown hate us yet. It merely annoyed us at frequent intervals.

Hot chocolate improved the situation. It usually does. And we moved our chairs next to the car, which blocked most of the wind. Three tasty beers from Coachella Valley Brewing Company, they helped too.

We gazed at the stars above. Cecelia pointed out different constellations. Then she pointed out some thick clouds barely visible in the distance. Was it supposed to rain?

Earlier I had checked the forecast for Joshua Tree and did not see any precipitation. However, we were camping several miles from the town of Joshua Tree, and 2400' higher in elevation. Oopsie.

We entered the tent and crawled inside our sleeping bags. Despite wearing ear plugs, the wind kept us awake. My cheap tent is not great at shielding wind. It flapped around fairly consistently. Note to self: Invest in a better tent!

Eventually the stressed tent stakes came out of the loose, desert sand, and that's when Cecelia rightfully gave up the fight. She abandoned the tent for the back seat of my car.

So in the middle of the night, in the cold, evil wind, I hunted for large rocks to place over the tent stakes. I managed to secure everything, even the empty beer cans that had flown away and were successfully tracked down like wild game. Feeling kind of proud of myself, I actually zonked out and slept for a couple hours.

I then woke to the sound of something lightly hitting the top of the tent. My sleepy brain assumed it was rain. Thankfully the tent's interior remained dry and water was not dripping through. Perhaps my tent wasn't as cheap as it looked.

I tried and failed to go back to sleep. After tossing and turning for an hour or so, I noticed that the constant wind had unzipped the vestibule, and my shoes were covered with ice.

It wasn't raining, it was snowing! I can be such a dumbass at times.

Now the brain started working. I finally poked my head outside. The ground and tent were already encased in snow, and the snow was already clumping into ice chunks. The wind-driven flakes were falling fast, too. If this kept up, maybe my old car wouldn't start and we'd be stuck in bad weather far from civilization. Apparently I had made a mistake checking the weather forecast, so now I had no clue what to expect throughout the rest of the day.

I decided to bail ... immediately. I put on the ice-covered shoes and entered a bit of chaos--a dark and frozen, gusting and snowing chaos of Covington Flats. Ice had partially consumed my car. Opening the door broke chunks and made a loud cracking noise that frightened Cecelia awake. She thought she was under attack. We *were* under attack, but not from any animal or man. Nature itself was trying to murder us. Why was it trying to kill us? No time for answers. Stuff needed to be put back into the car.

Thankfully the engine started. Praise Honda!

I informed Cecelia that we were leaving. She agreed that that was a good idea. Sheets of ice covered the camp table and chairs. I shook off what I could, then brushed off the rest with my gloved hands. The gloves weren't made for snow and immediately became wet, then my hands started freezing.

I quickly tossed aside icy rocks and pulled up the tent stakes. Then I folded and lifted the tent with all of its contents still inside. The whole package was shoved into the back of my SUV, like a huge burrito. Only this burrito was topped with ice and folded by a madman, and you wouldn't want to eat it, because its plastic tortilla was stuffed with camping gear.

I quickly double-checked the campsite for anything forgotten. If the snow concealed it from my sight, whatever it was, it's still there.

I removed my soaked gloves and began the process of warming frozen hands by the car heater. The car said that the outside temperature was 27 degrees. Does that factor in the wind?

We descended Covington Road with snow still falling sideways. Cecelia took a video.



After a few miles, the flurries stopped, but a fresh, white blanket now covered the desert.



We returned to the Park entrance on La Contenta Road, where it hadn't snowed much and the road was clear. We pulled into a turnout near the signboard and tried to sleep as the sky began to lighten.
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To be continued...
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Sean
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Post by Sean »

The Covington Flats area of Joshua Tree warms the soul, except when you're stuck in a snow storm in the middle of the night. Then it freezes the soul. But we escaped alive, and started fresh in the morning.

While Cecelia tried to sleep in the car, I walked around the Park entrance and enjoyed the sunrise. The San Gorgonio mountains stood tall and white in the new sunlight.
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A man parked next to us. He and his dog hiked up a rough road that split off from the main road and climbed a hill. I wondered where that trail went.

I let Cecelia sleep for a couple hours, then we drove back up the road, this time to Lower Covington Flat.
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Covered in ice, the picnic table sat unused. We drank hot chocolate and ate breakfast in the car. The wind still hadn't lost interest in us, even though the snow storm had. It was nevertheless a clear, beautiful morning in a wonderful place.

We enjoyed the area all to ourselves, again. This time the environment better resembled paradise, not the looming death of Upper Covington only a few hours ago. On second thought, maybe we did freeze to death up there and then reached heaven in the afterlife. Somebody drive to Covington Flats and search for our bodies!

We decided to hike a little. My dream of bagging Quail Mountain might have been crushed, but we could still mosey on down the trail and enjoy the post-storm, desert landscape.
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While researching a route to Quail, I had taken screenshots of the topo map.
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I noticed a landmark in Smith Water Canyon, and due to the low resolution of my screenshot, I misread it as "Covington Wall (Dry)." That sounded unique and interesting, so off-trail we went, looking for this "wall" thing. I figured it was a nickname for a dry waterfall or maybe a cliff wall feature. The canyon itself ended up being well worth exploring, with neat rocks and cliffs, and pleasant scrambling mixed with an easy wash walk.
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We seemed to reach the location of the "wall," but nothing obvious appeared. I figured I was being stupid again and had misjudged our location. We tried to verify the spot using Cecelia's GPS app, but its low-res map didn't do it for me.

We were having fun, though, simply exploring the beautiful canyon, so we decided to continue on.
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Our turnaround time came and went. I still hadn't found an obvious "wall" feature, and we were now *well* beyond where I thought the "wall" should be located. Cecelia indulged a few more minutes of me exploring down the canyon. I hit the top of a dry waterfall that looked semi-dangerous to down climb. Was this the "wall"? Nah, probably not.

We turned around here and backtracked to a nice, sunny rock for sitting, snacking and taking pictures.
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It wasn't until we got back home that I checked the map and realized my mistake. We should have been searching for a *well*, not a wall.

Before leaving the Park, we also drove to Eureka Peak. From the parking area, it's only a quarter-mile stroll to the summit, which provides a panoramic view of the entire area, including Quail Mountain seen across the flats.
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How does the saying go? You don't always get what you desire, but sometimes you get what you deserve. I didn't deserve Quail. Next time I'll be smarter and better prepared. Yeah, next time.
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tekewin
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Post by tekewin »

What a story! Glad you got out of the storm in time. And you salvaged the trip with some nice canyon exploration.

My wife and I camped at Cottonwood (southern entrance) in January a few years ago. It was uncomfortably cold and we learned January is not the best month to camp in JT.
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Girl Hiker
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Post by Girl Hiker »

That was some experience! Camping in freezing temps and unforgiving windchill.

I really enjoyed the canyon and the cool ass rocks. At least we bagged one peak that had some nice views.

I can also check off my list the sculptures that I've been dying to see.
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Tom Kenney
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Post by Tom Kenney »

I've never been to Josh in the snow, but used to go every winter for family camp-out. Looks positively magical in the snow, even in the dark. Thanks! I suppose you could show the videos to someone and tell them you snuck into Area 51 to look for bigfoot's UFO. :)

Long ago I attempted Olancha Peak, parked night before at the Sage Flat TH and laid out the mats'n'bags, konked out. Woke up later with several inches on top of my bivi sack and dropping temperatures. Pulled a massive poly-fill comforter into my already-massive Blue Kazoo (5*F) bag and slept quite well. The drive out to the highway in the morning was similar, surreal. It was still snowing and dark, blizzard conditions, coulda been Nebraska or Saskatchewan. Scary 20mph on US-395! We ended up hunting for petroglyphs at Fossil Falls instead, which was also beautiful and surreal.
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Post by Girl Hiker »

More pics
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HikeUp
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Post by HikeUp »

Weather be damned, I'm going to the high desert in the middle of winter!!!

Reminds me of a trip I took to Vegas about 35 years ago. I think it was February. I had my folding paper maps from AAA and noticed that I could take nothing but dirt roads to make the trip from Victorville to Vegas. 4-wheel drive, a Whisperlite stove, and a sleeping bag was enough to get me there. I made it to a campground in the middle of the desert near Mitchell Caverns. After heating up some couscous and veg and washing it down with some refreshing ale, I proceeded to set up bed in the back of the SUV. Who knew that the temp would get to about 20F and that the bottom of a vehicle has absolutely no insulation properties!!! Froze my acorns off. Had to run the engine every once in awhile. Luckily no one else was in the campground (duh!) and it didn't snow.

Glad you guys salvaged a nice adventure out it!
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Sean
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Post by Sean »

Tom Kenney wrote: Mon Jan 08, 2024 4:27 pmI suppose you could show the videos to someone and tell them you snuck into Area 51 to look for bigfoot's UFO. :)
Oh, I forgot that we actually bumped into Bigfoot in the canyon. Here's photographic proof.
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We said hi but he ignored us and kept walking.
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Girl Hiker
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Post by Girl Hiker »

😆 🤣 😂
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Nate U
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Post by Nate U »

A tent in a snowstorm can be ok if there isn't any wind. Snow insulates. Wind however makes quite a big difference.... you guys definitely made the right call in bailing!! Good adventure.
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wesweswes
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Post by wesweswes »

It took me several attempts to make it up quail; sure enough the first time it was a blizzard up there (and raining lower in the park) so we had to turn back, but came back later with better weather. It's worth getting up.
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