South-North loop

TRs for Sierra Nevada ranges.
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JeffH
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Joined: Sun Nov 28, 2010 7:09 am

Post by JeffH »

Aug 28 - Sep 2, 2019
I bailed out. I had planned to go from South Lake to Duck Lake over the course of six days but cut the trip short and exited via Piute Pass instead.
I drove up to Lone Pine and easily got a walkup permit for Thursday via Bishop Pass. Sitting at the McDonalds later I talked to a young lady who had bailed from her NOBO attempt after reaching Crabtree, she said she couldn’t take the elevation. When I asked about mosquitos she just smiled and generously offered me her headnet. That turned out to be a great piece of gear! I paid back a little hiker karma by taking two hitchhikers to Horseshoe Meadow so they could complete their PCT effort.
The next day I parked behind the Police Department in Bishop and caught the shuttle to South Lake where I began on that familiar trail. While taking the obligatory photo at the Pass, I got jabbed by a sharp rock in my left instep. I didn’t think too much of it at the time since the rest of the day was downhill to Little Pete Meadow. It took a long time to travel the next six miles, I chalked up my slow pace to first-day fatigue along with the amazing views in Dusy Basin. I also stopped for water a couple of times and took a nice long lunch break.
Day two was an issue, as my foot was bothering me some and I just wasn’t making any time. Every little bit of uphill - which was pretty much the entire day - just wore me out and I had to stop frequently just to collect my breath and thoughts once again. I stopped for a long break at the lowest lake (tarn) before Muir Pass and left some of my breakfast behind. I don’t think that was altitude sickness, since I don’t usually notice it until well past 12k and I didn’t have any symptom of general nausea. Anyway, I struggled on to reach Helen Lake by about 4pm and felt like I just couldn’t go any further. While sitting on a rock feeling sorry for myself I decided to just stay there and see how I felt in the morning. When I was changing socks I noticed my foot was very red and starting to bruise. I did spend the night in one of the best campsites I have ever used, and that evening officially decided to bail from my original plan.
The following day was all downhill, so I managed to cover a little more than 16 miles while cruising through Evolution Valley and over the two bridges spanning the San Joaquin River. The afternoon creek ford was less than knee deep and I felt stable enough to stop in the middle and take a couple photos. That view coming down into the valley from Muir Pass is spectacular! Every time I passed by water, the bugs were out in force so I couldn't take any nice shady breaks. I did find a couple of spots in the sunshine where a light breeze kept them away.
Day four was a short downhill and then plenty of up, as I trudged past Hutchinson Meadow in the afternoon. Near the Pine Creek Pass junction is a group of stream crossings, at that time they were very confusing to follow with alternate locations above and below the regular trail. I got a bit lost and then attacked by bugs, I brushed off my legs and arms and ran back the way I came. When I sat down to zip on the pant legs and roll down my sleeves I counted 17 fatalities there. Adding the head net I felt better prepared and set forth again to make the five crossings. This time I paid closer attention to the ground immediately below and managed to get through the little wet area on the actual trail. I was attacked once again later while refilling water so I didn’t quite finish that job. Later in the afternoon I got concerned about how much water I had, since with no map on an unfamiliar trail I did not know how much I would need. I decided to dry camp at the first likely location, which turned out to be well above Little Golden Trout Lake at 10,800 feet. I had about 20 ounces of water so I just had licorice for dinner and a couple sips during the night. Even at this spot the bugs were out, I had to kill two more that snuck inside the tent with me. I guessed that I was about three miles from Piute Pass, and I knew there was a lake just this side of that spot.
In the morning they were still hanging around, and I hurriedly packed up and hit the trail by 6am, hoping to get a couple miles toward the Pass before it got hot. I reached a watering spot in about 25 minutes, so I polished off a full bottle and the rest of my Camelbak bladder before refilling. Just before reaching Summit Lake I had a Clif bar breakfast, which did wonders for my psyche. Reaching Piute Pass was almost anticlimactic, I was expecting to see a sign or something to mark the location. Walking down Piute Canyon was pleasant, as an overcast day kept the temperature down.
I met up with a couple from Colorado near the campground, and we hitched a ride in the back of a pickup out to the highway. From there four cars passed us before two nice folks in a Chevy Volt managed to get all three of us plus our packs loaded up and down to Bishop. That was my first hitchhiking as a passenger experience.

Pic set 1:
What I learned:
Know your level of fitness, I thought I was in better shape - especially the second and third days.
Make sure to eat, I wasn’t hungry and skipped out on replenishment. The Bear Vault didn’t get lighter either.
Be aware of alternates, I don’t know if this qualifies as a Plan B since I didn’t plan for it.
Even the downhill miles are long.
I really dislike mosquitos.
Don’t spit while wearing a headnet.
Bailing isn’t failing.
Looking down on the moonscape just below Muir Pass, Lake Macdermand on the right and Wanda Lake below.
Looking down on the moonscape just below Muir Pass, Lake Macdermand on the right and Wanda Lake below.
Obligatory photo of me approaching the hut at Muir Pass. Someone left a bag of weed inside to inspire other hikers.
Obligatory photo of me approaching the hut at Muir Pass. Someone left a bag of weed inside to inspire other hikers.
Helen Lake in the early morning, a few steps away from my campsite. There was frost in the meadow and ice on the trail.
Helen Lake in the early morning, a few steps away from my campsite. There was frost in the meadow and ice on the trail.
Small lake/tarn below Muir Pass. There was so much water that the trail became a little stream which helped with route finding.
Small lake/tarn below Muir Pass. There was so much water that the trail became a little stream which helped with route finding.
First view in the morning, the heights look daunting from here. Muir Pass is out of sight to the left.
First view in the morning, the heights look daunting from here. Muir Pass is out of sight to the left.
Middle part of Dusy Basin, I still get to descend to the bottom of the valley today.
Middle part of Dusy Basin, I still get to descend to the bottom of the valley today.
Unnamed lake in Dusy Basin, I stayed here a few years ago.
Unnamed lake in Dusy Basin, I stayed here a few years ago.
Posing at the pass, the sharp rock is probably jabbing me right now.
Posing at the pass, the sharp rock is probably jabbing me right now.
First break, up on those rocks overlooking Long Lake and eyeing Bishop Pass in the distance.
First break, up on those rocks overlooking Long Lake and eyeing Bishop Pass in the distance.
Morning in the Buttermilk area, I spent the night here next to a creek and four other groups.
Morning in the Buttermilk area, I spent the night here next to a creek and four other groups.
"Argue for your limitations and sure enough they're yours".
Donald Shimoda
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JeffH
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Joined: Sun Nov 28, 2010 7:09 am

Post by JeffH »

Pics set 2:
It was really hard to narrow these down....
View back to where the last photo was taken, on that shelf in the middle of the pic.
View back to where the last photo was taken, on that shelf in the middle of the pic.
Looking up the way towards Piute Pass, still another 10 miles or so ahead through this canyon.
Looking up the way towards Piute Pass, still another 10 miles or so ahead through this canyon.
Crossing Piute Creek, which would be my companion for the next few hours. This is also the border of Sierra National Forest and SEKI NP.
Crossing Piute Creek, which would be my companion for the next few hours. This is also the border of Sierra National Forest and SEKI NP.
Morning hiker, I spent the night about 2.5 miles from the Piute Creek junction.
Morning hiker, I spent the night about 2.5 miles from the Piute Creek junction.
Evolution Creek begins to run quicker downhill towards the meeting with the San Joaquin River below.
Evolution Creek begins to run quicker downhill towards the meeting with the San Joaquin River below.
McClure Meadow. It looks so peaceful with Evolution Creek flowing gently through. What you don't see are the crazy man-eating mosquitos.
McClure Meadow. It looks so peaceful with Evolution Creek flowing gently through. What you don't see are the crazy man-eating mosquitos.
Looking back over Evolution Lake, Muir Pass is in the background of the photo.
Looking back over Evolution Lake, Muir Pass is in the background of the photo.
Pictures don't show this very well at all. This is the inlet of Evolution Lake, the whole section here - about five or six miles - is spectacular.
Pictures don't show this very well at all. This is the inlet of Evolution Lake, the whole section here - about five or six miles - is spectacular.
Sapphire Lake, somewhere around here is considered the headwater of Evolution Creek. Evolution Valley is around the bend to the left.
Sapphire Lake, somewhere around here is considered the headwater of Evolution Creek. Evolution Valley is around the bend to the left.
"Argue for your limitations and sure enough they're yours".
Donald Shimoda
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JeffH
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Post by JeffH »

Obviously I can't figure out what Tapatalk is doing with photos, when I preview the post it seems random whether or not they will be put inline and also random if the captions show up. Seems if they are missing and I add text in line then the caption shows up and it's doubled. So I go back and delete what I had just typed and now no caption - and I know everyone misses my witty comments.....

Last group:
Almost to the end of the hike, the distinctive red color of the Piute Crags is on display.
Almost to the end of the hike, the distinctive red color of the Piute Crags is on display.
Below Piute Lake, Loch Leven is below. This canyon was also very green and full of wildflowers.
Below Piute Lake, Loch Leven is below. This canyon was also very green and full of wildflowers.
Piute Lake.
Piute Lake.
View the other direction from Piute Pass. There was a 50-foot snowfield to skid down here.
View the other direction from Piute Pass. There was a 50-foot snowfield to skid down here.
Last look at Humphreys Basin from Piute Pass, Summit Lake directly below. This place was a pleasant surprise.
Last look at Humphreys Basin from Piute Pass, Summit Lake directly below. This place was a pleasant surprise.
Piute Pass in sight. I was trying not to get too excited since I thought it was further and I guessed wrong a couple times before.
Piute Pass in sight. I was trying not to get too excited since I thought it was further and I guessed wrong a couple times before.
A little daybreak alpenglow on the peaks opposite the trail.
A little daybreak alpenglow on the peaks opposite the trail.
Morning as I hit the trail, first view of Humphreys Basin. The clouds hung around and made for a nice cool hike.
Morning as I hit the trail, first view of Humphreys Basin. The clouds hung around and made for a nice cool hike.
Consolation prize for bailing out, I had this great campsite high above Lower Golden Trout Lake.
Consolation prize for bailing out, I had this great campsite high above Lower Golden Trout Lake.
"Argue for your limitations and sure enough they're yours".
Donald Shimoda
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Uncle Rico
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Joined: Thu Mar 20, 2008 7:48 pm

Post by Uncle Rico »

If that's failing, my goal is to fail like you.

Super nice trip. I've been up to the Humphrey's Basin but not further. That snow patch just below the pass was there when I went as well. That whole North Fork Bishop Creek drainage is gorgeous.
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Sean
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Post by Sean »

JeffH wrote:Obviously I can't figure out what Tapatalk is doing with photos...
First, thanks for the beautiful report! Second, we need a pic of you wearing your net--so we can turn you into a bugnet serial killer. Third, I cleaned up your photo sets. When you use the caption feature, it works differently on the desktop view versus mobile view. The captions are embedded in the mobile view.

Screenshot_20190922-083015.png


But in the desktop version you have to click on the photo to see the caption and other details in a gallery format that you can flip through like an album.

If you want your comments embedded in the main body of the report across all versions of the site, I don't recommend using the caption feature when you upload photos. Just place the photo inline, then write your comment above or below the photo (or image coding), depending on the flow of your text.

Also, a reminder to select a "featured" image from your first post in a report, which will be used in thumbnail view links across platforms. If you don't select one yourself, Tapatalk will do it automatically. I selected a more scenic one for you this time.
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JeffH
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Post by JeffH »

Sean wrote:
JeffH wrote:Obviously I can't figure out what Tapatalk is doing with photos...
..... we need a pic of you wearing your net--so we can turn you into a bugnet serial killer. ....
:) :)
I didn't get one of those pictures. Might need to dig it out of the gear closet and pose for a new one.
"Argue for your limitations and sure enough they're yours".
Donald Shimoda
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JeffH
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Post by JeffH »

And I didn't know about the featured image, that's pretty cool.
Generally when I compose this stuff it's on the desktop, also that way for most of my viewing. I'll use the iPad/iPhone app once in a while.
So for now I will not put captions into the attachments, hopefully the inline part will work.

This is a nice excuse to share one of my favorite performers, the greatest rock and roll band in the world:

"Argue for your limitations and sure enough they're yours".
Donald Shimoda
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Sean
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Post by Sean »

That reminded me of this Weird Al parody.



I'd rather have first-world problems than third-world ones.
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Girl Hiker
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Post by Girl Hiker »

Wow! what an adventure. I bought these pills from Amazon called ALTITUDE RX they work miracles. All you need to do is take 2 the night before and 2 the morning of your hike. They worked great for me when I hiked to Kearsage Pass.
"Never limit yourself to what you can do!"
--Bart Yasso, my hero
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David R
OG of the SG
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Post by David R »

I was up there about a month ago and hiked to Piute Pass as a day hike. The mosquitoes even at the pass were really bad. The next day we went up to The Hunchback out of South Lake. Green Lake was the worst mosquito swarm I've seen, they got in places that my wife has never looked at.
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tekewin
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Post by tekewin »

So many great photos to take in. Thanks for a great report. I've read a lot of reports about people fighting with mosquitoes in some parts of the Sierra, sounds awful. Is that mostly a function of the place (near water) or time of year, or both?
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JeffH
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Post by JeffH »

Mosquitos this year were bad because of so much water due to the heavy snow. Most years they are gone by late August. I've gone up there backpacking in September and not seen any mosquitos.
"Argue for your limitations and sure enough they're yours".
Donald Shimoda
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