Ontario Peak North Face - Sheep Canyon West Ridge Rock Route

[Taco]

My computer at home is down, so I'm typing from my buddies place. Pics later when things are fixed.

Sheep Canyon has a bigass 260ft or so headwall which I went to go check out. I'm going again. The rock quality is pretty damn good. Climbed up along the right side of the canyon itself, which is loads of fun, with scrambling and good solid class 5. Switching from trail runners into La Sportiva rock shoes made things 110% better, and I wasn't sketched the whole time, despite how cool the whole thing was. I highly suggest rock shoes for this route. If one chooses to protect it and grab a better line, small cams would come in handy, and if you're not a super-clean dude, pitons would be great. Most useful spots for pro are about 1/4 inches, up to Big Bro size. Lots of chockstones here (all are as big as a small car), and some good natural anchors, mostly strong bushes, but I wouldn't count on any of these, or trees, or rock horns, or whatever.

Anywho, refreshing real rock climbing up a very nicely exposed arete/ridge with bigass dropoffs either side. Loads of fun. Route tops out opposite Sheep Flat. Gonna do this in the winter as a good hard trad mixed climb, if I can get new tools that don't suck.

Changed back into runners, and hit the summit of Ontario for the first time in two years. New register, didn't recognise any names except for the Korean Radio Club deal.

Headed down the ridge to Sugarloaf, which I didn't have the water or health to climb, so I headed down Falling Rock Canyon for the 800th time (figuratively speaking). The scree/talus on the upper part is horrible. Fine the rest of the way. Lotsa bugs all damn day.

Was out of water when I hit the trail and took the short hike back to the car. Drank boiling hot water out of my waterbottle in my car, then went to Baldy Lodge, where I drank two glasses of ice water rather quickly, felt sick, left, went outside, and threw it all up into the street. Drove home feeling much better though. Felt great afterwards.

Pictures, video, info later. Got a couple of projects lined up based off of what I saw. Lotsa cool stuff for those who like more adventurous rock climbing on less-than-spoiled-quality rock.

[HikeUp]

Sounds like you had fun. Looking forward to the pictures.

Changed back into runners, and hit the summit of Ontario for the first time in two years. New register, didn't recognise any names except for the Korean Radio Club deal.

I'm curious if you took any pics of the register book. When I was up there last week I didn't bother to open up the container to sign the register, but the other guy that showed up did (I think). I'm curious if he actually signed it...sir. It would have been dated June 15th.

[Hikin_Jim]

My computer at home is down, so I'm typing from my buddies place. Pics later when things are fixed.

Sure. Likely story. You were off playing SOF in Afghanistan or the like.

...I drank two glasses of ice water rather quickly, felt sick, left, went outside, and threw it all up into the street.

We'll be looking forward to that video!

[Taco]

HikeUp, no photo of the register, sorry bud!

I wish I had the puking on video or something. I thought of taking a picture, but it was just a dark wet spot, since I didn't throw up any solid stuff.

No SOF stuff, unfortunately.

[Taco]

Pictures:



Heading towards the headwall


Telegraph


Some good rock


Heading up a crack. Loads of fun, good stuff right here.


Looking right


Tight squeeze for tall guys on the left of the block, crappy looking on the right. Went right up the edge on the right half of the shot.


The right crack. Too tight, turned around and did the edge two photos previously.


Towards Baldy


Foot


Self portrait


Not the best time for photography


More fun, more highly-featured granite, though moss is a problem when not frozen.


Nice photograph for photography purposes


Continued up this ridge, with the crux being squeezing between small, very strong sub-trees (not quite bushes) with very strong branches, to hold on to the rock. Climbing was about class 4 on those spots, but the bushes kicked it up a notch, though they were stable enough for holds.


Looking back down onto Icehouse Canyon


Cool tree


More ridgeline


Looking down, came up center. Awesome rock.




COUGH*futureproject*COUGH. Badass spire-ish deal (not truly a spire, as it is connected to the ridge, but is near vertical on two sides, with the right edge being just beautiful.


Top out of route, with class 1-2 left to the summit.


Win


Leg shot


Constant "companions". A few biting flies as well, but mostly those annoying little black flies that drink sweat and get in your damn ears.


Awhile later, going to the summit.



Summit




Probably un-named bump south of Sugarloaf. Looks awesome for climbing. Headed back very soon.

Video way later when it's edited and stuff.

pictArs R dun.

[FIGHT ON]

I like the fifth from the last pic. The one that looks like Half Dome on the right.
AllanK? Wonder if the gps would work for Taco on his climbs. Distance traveled? I think it would get confused.

[Taco]

It would probably record about 1/4 mile of horizontal distance travelled in about 3.5 hours... then suddenly a mile 30 minutes... it would explode.

Maybe someday I can afford the money and patience to buy GPS devices, as I'd probably break a few.

And, here are more smilies:

[FIGHT ON]

DUDE! YOU NEED MONEY? I could use some extra cash too. I GOT AN IDEA! Start charging people to post here. like a buck a pop. I'll split it with ya.

[Taco]

HAH!

NEVER!

[AW~]

Good job on that one...strenuous route you took. That arete I wouldnt climb though...bad quality. Headwall left offers a decent climb for say 100ft or so(might be a dead-end as well). Before reaching the headwall is a small climb upcanyon on the left side as well(and thats the only one Ive done).

Wasnt it hot outside?

[Taco]

It was acceptable outside, 70-80 something.

Have you gone down the headwall?

[Taco]

Route page is up, and undergoing final touches: http://www.summitpost.org/route/414534/ ... 4-5-6.html

Woot.

[AW~]

>Have you gone down the headwall?

One time. Its a route listed on Brennan's website that I lived through last year.

[Taco]

How'd it go? It looks awesome! I'm trying to get one of my buddy's to give it a shot, but I don't think we can pull it off, equipment-wise. DOn't have the right rope.

[FIGHT ON]

How'd it go? It looks awesome! I'm trying to get one of my buddy's to give it a shot, but I don't think we can pull it off, equipment-wise. DOn't have the right rope.

I got $10 bucks to start the ROPE FOR TACO fund. LET'S ALL CONTRIBUTE!

psst, hey Taco. It worked for that plane ride right? who knows.

[AW~]

Trip report to Sheep Canyon 4A (alternate approach) 5/20/07 Message List

Reply | Forward | Delete Message #97 of 326

Arrived at Icehouse Canyon trailhead at about 7:30am to a nice
looking day compared to the haze of the valley below. My first visit
to this quad, terrain was open/forested moutains with plenty o scree.
After the previous Browns Gulch, it would be nice to view water from
a distance and descend a nice clear rock canyon...and off we went.

First off we got bamboozled by a side trail but navigated back to the
main trail. Then I walked right past Fir Draw, luckily that was
quickly pointed out with a GPS. Fir Draw is before the trail gets
steep with wooden steps built in and water was flowing from springs
creating muddy conditions for that part. I did not like the look of
Fir Draw at all.

Its exit is a lush spring fed area and finally we were in the creek.
Thrown out to the right and finally the lush area ended with no
bushwack and up ahead was a large steep scree slope...arrgh...

Just could not mesh with the beta this trip..shucks...my thoughts
were to turn back as it was only misery ahead. Luckily there was a
greater purpose to this canyon and we were in get it done mode in no
time. I think we only made the first left turn correct as we
encountered some dangerous exposed areas...I cant even imagine what a
mess the other way was though as it had turned into super steep
dirt&scree, a most unpleasent mixture. The ridge bypass wasnt too bad
compared and about 300 ft from the top at least my frustation was
over.

Finally at the top, a great view(not that the view from Fir Draw was
bad) and we were only 1 hour behind the beta....then I saw Sheep
canyon...arrgh...just not my style...more of the same just downhill,
and now brush. All avoidable by using the left side of the drainage.
Near the dropoff, it turned much better/clearer. A downclimb past a
pool to the rap....

The small tree that serves as another rap station was easily sighted
as there was no other tree. Our pratice was to lower me to the tree
(with the help of 2 way radios) and then I would rap from there on an
attached rope above my rap device. As I started down it was just a
matter of ignoring anything read and just concentrating on the task
at hand. Too bad I made the mistake of starting to just downclimb a
section and all of a sudden there was about 10 to 15 ft of
slack...not that I knew that until I weighted the rope again and
started the fall.Fall was 5 ft at most as my hand finally wrapped the
rope. Then it was just getting lowered on my hand to this traverse
where I could unwrap my hand. I imagine with a regular glove that
would be painful...just kidding I happen to know it doesnt work with
a leather glove. Rope was reset(slack taken out) and got the pine
tree..sketchy pine tree that is.

Orginial plan was modified to just go safe as possible and the rope
was reset again. 2 people at the tree, yeah..not good. The next rap
couldnt be set soon enough and I got to the next ledge where the
setup was completed. A nice rap to end this headwall.

After that we went ahead with using me as human anchor for one small
drop (with a longer downclimb/contour for myself) and the rest of it
was a boulder filled, scree filled steep drainage intersped with
minor downclimbing until the Icehouse canyon creek. Total route time
was about 6.5 hours.

All in all, me thinks a lot of work was put into this route and we
were glad to have selected it at the end of the day for our practice.
Webbing for both anchors was in great condition.

Back on Mills Rd, the area was covered in haze......

Rest in Peace Friend

[Tim]

Nice TR and SummitPost Page, Taco.

[Taco]

Thanks AW?

(BTW, mind if I ask who passed away?)

Thanks Tim. Gonna clean it all up over time, adding more info as more trips are done.

[Sean]

Route page is up, and undergoing final touches: http://www.summitpost.org/route/414534/ ... 4-5-6.html

I couldn't find your route page for Sheep Canyon. Could you trace the path on one of the images below? I'm curious about the extent and degree of exposure. I might try the east side, hoping to find a less frightening way up. Thanks.

[Taco]

I left summitpost, so all of those pages are gone.

In your last photo, you just take the right ridge up, staying close to the spine or whatever. Class 4 plus.

[tekewin]

Crazy, freaky, route. Nice climb and nice photos.

I am content to stand on the sidelines and applaud.

[hvydrt]

I went down this canyon last month with some canyoneering types that knew what they were doing. Here are the pics. I wouldn't try climbing the headwall, the rock is not great, some large blocks that look ready to go. Just below, and just above the headwall are a few short sections with some fun class 3. You can also go up Fir Draw, taking the left forks up to a small saddle by Pt 7046 on the ridge between Sheep and Fir Draw. You can drop into Sheep Canyon from there. That puts you about 300 vertical feet above the headwall.

[Taco]

Those are some pretty incredible photos.