20140722-23 Lone Pine Peak South Face Attempt

[Taco]

Aysel and I had planned on climbing the Beckey Route on the big south face of Lone Pine Peak (IV, 5.8 or so, 16 pitches or so). We headed up the north side of the canyon on sandy slopes with some bushwhacking to reach the base. Slept under a huge boulder about a couple hours from the base on the first night. I wasn't feeling so great, I guess from being at 9,000ft or so since I rarely hike at elevation right now.

Next day, hiked to the base and told Aysel I didn't feel so great about everything. I was to lead all the pitches and I did not think we would finish the route in one day, and I wasn't feeling fit at elevation nor equipped for several days on the route. We bailed and headed back to Lone Pine where the temps were in the 90's or so. Climbed a few sport routes in the Alabama Hills before driving home.

Some photos:
Parking by TacoDelRio, on Flickr
Starting our hike

Stonehouse Buttress and SF by TacoDelRio, on Flickr
Stonehouse Buttress and part of the South Face

DSC01919 by TacoDelRio, on Flickr
Looking up the South Face, a few hundred meters left of our route. South Corner and other routes in this shot.

Album:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/tacodelri ... 902151305/

I will be ready to go back sometime. I am in great climbing shape and am very fast on technical ground, but as I said I don't hike at elevation with a pack often so that got me down. After spending some time in Yosemite and evolving a bit, I don't like doing these sorts of routes in multiple days. When I am in shape, I predict I could solo the route with a light rack using a light rope and a clove hitch for self-belay on the sections I'd be uncomfortable freesoloing, I could probably climb the route in a longish day. I don't like freesoloing exposed pitches above 5.8, or slab above 5.6ish, so the crux pitch would be the longest time expenditure for me. Those grades reflect Yosemite, not the Sierra which is a tad different. I always figure 5.x in the Sierra will be harder for me than 5.x in Yosemite. I learned some limits as well as how many pitches/how much ground I can cover ropeless there, but I haven't really applied it in the Sierra except for on Lone Pine Peak's North Ridge, which I did ropeless with Ingrid K 4 years ago when I was not as strong.

Point being, I know I can solo say, 16 pitches of easy-moderate ground with secure jams/movement in an hour and change without trying to go fast (assuming I make no routefinding mistakes, of course), but to do the same with a partner would take significantly longer, with cleaning, belaying, traverses, etc in the mix.

Anywho, cheers.

[atomicoyote]

Cool! 8)
Q: How were you planning to come down from the summit? Via the normal 'hiker' route? If so, it might have been a good time to hike the three miles up the Meysan Lakes Trails (up to the Grass Lakes) to get an idea of where the best (easiest) decent route is. If you were planning to rap off back down the south face . . . can't help ya there!

IF you've never been to the summit of Lone Pine Peak - the view is spectacular (north up the Owens Valley,east towards the Inyo and White Mtns, and south towards Owens Lake), better than the view from the top of Whitney. .

[Taco]

We were going to descend a major sandy chute to the east, which would drop us off near Stonehouse Buttress. One crosses this gully on the hike in. Supposed to be all class 3 and below.

I went to the top when I did the north ridge. I descended the north face on accident and was seperated from my partner. Lots of loose class 4-5 downclimbing with big blocks and rockfall as well as one or two rappels. Left a stiff Petzl whatever sling behind and found an old Choinard #3 C4 as well as a previous generation Camalot C4 #4 as an anchor. Woo! Expensive anchors, some of y'all leave behind! Musta been a scary descent.

[Sewellymon]

Always wanted to do that giant rock slog. Still do.

Get a partner who you can simul-climb with. Almost as fast as soloing but safer. We used to simul a lot BITD.

Did do the central chimney on Stonehouse Buttress. Sort of a poor man's Steck- Salathe. Worthwhile. As is the Keyhole Wall one canyon south (you cross the stream to access it right B4 the Stonehouse).

I got to meet the guy who built the Stonehouse a couple times ('77, '81). Real life philosopher/ metaphysical ascended master.

I love it up there....

[Taco]

Always wanted to do that giant rock slog. Still do.

Get a partner who you can simul-climb with. Almost as fast as soloing but safer. We used to simul a lot BITD.

Did do the central chimney on Stonehouse Buttress. Sort of a poor man's Steck- Salathe. Worthwhile. As is the Keyhole Wall one canyon south (you cross the stream to access it right B4 the Stonehouse).

I got to meet the guy who built the Stonehouse a couple times ('77, '81). Real life philosopher/ metaphysical ascended master.

I love it up there....

Yeah that would be the ticket (simuling)!

I looked up at the chimney on the way in and home. You can keep yer Steck-Salathe type fun! Yeech! Not yet.

Haven't been to the house yet, and I always manage to amaze peopel with how little I know of it!