20140201 SugarLedge yeehaw

Post by **Taco** » Sat Feb 01, 2014 7:58 pm

Went for a walk with a new forum member and a rack and rope. Did some crummy climbing to about 5.8 to reach a really cool spot. Found a better way up that's way more spectacular to climb if there's a next time.

It was very windy and very cold for me, since I've been spoiled by our 'winter'. Felt like 30-40's? Didn't hang out on top for too long because of the wind. Shoulda worn long johns and brought another layer.

Used:
70m rope (60 would be best)
LONG slings
Cams to 1"

approach

climb

goal!

gettin dat snacks

Rest: http://www.flickr.com/photos/tacodelrio ... 398357296/

Post by **Sean** » Sat Feb 01, 2014 9:41 pm

That's a cool shot of the ledge. Do you start from the bridge before Icehouse where the cinder pile is kept and then go up the gully?

Post by **Taco** » Sun Feb 02, 2014 6:24 pm

Aye laddy!

Post by **tekewin** » Mon Feb 03, 2014 3:56 pm

Was the rock not crumbly crap? I think that is the direction my friends and I started errantly last year but turned back before any 5.x sections.

And yes, awesome ledge shots.

Post by **Taco** » Mon Feb 03, 2014 10:50 pm

Some good, lots of bad. First steep section is good with lots of loose baseball sized ones wedged between flakes and in the crack. Gets less steep and you cross lots of loose stuff, like a whole lot, but it's not that dangerous because it's basically class 3 at that point before the ledge.

There are alternative ways up on much better stone. You usually find that out after you climb the bad stuff. That's how this game works.