20120127 Baden Powell Ice

Post by **Taco** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 11:54 am

Hey guys

Ty, Patrick, and myself went up to check out conditions on Baden Powell. I knew there would be a little ice to play on, but since the weather has been bad I wasn't expecting much. Otherwise I would've invited more folks. We got enough to have a great time.

My girlfriend's car was stolen from right behind my house in broad daylight while I was in the mountains, so I'm pretty bummed right now. Mind the brevity in this TR.

Route page: http://www.calimountains.com/content.ph ... I-WI2-780m

Selected pics:

Questionable anchor

Patrick on the first ice step

Ty on the first step

Patrick on the second step

Ty on the 2nd step. We protected it, because half of the step broke and fell off. The rock underneath is really nice, in that there are no cracks or anything, just slab.

Me cleaning up

Big falls, close up. Click the route page link and you'll see what the falls look like from afar.

Ty climbing

Climbing the mixed route

Nosebleed

Hiking out

Patrick!

Old buttonhead next to the first ice step. Odd placement.

Album: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y222/T ... 0BP%20Ice/
(hopefully it's public... yes?)

Cheers

cougarmagic · Post by **cougarmagic** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 3:48 pm

That looks good!

Dumb question: when you place ice screws, do you get them back later or are they left there?

lilbitmo · Post by **lilbitmo** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 4:20 pm

cougarmagic wrote: ↑That looks good!

Dumb question: when you place ice screws, do you get them back later or are they left there?

CM - they screw out just like they screwed in, I had the same question before I saw them being used. When the ice is in good condition they are fairly easy to place and remove, what's important is that they don't crack the ice and pull out under the load of the climber - that makes for a unfun day

Post by **Taco** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 4:47 pm

They're quite expensive.

Here's the fancy one I was telling you guys about.
http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... LQBEPMCMAQ

Also of interest:
(that allows you to make an anchor in ice without leaving screws behind, just webbing or in some cases, nothing)

jmac · Post by **jmac** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 7:06 pm

This route looks AMAZING!!! A little beyond my skills and abilities I'd say. It makes my trip up BP today look like childs play. Good stuff Taco and sorry about the car.

Funyan005 · Post by **Funyan005** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 10:23 am

Is one axe enough or are ice tools required? If one axe I want in on the next trip!

norma r · Post by **norma r** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 8:32 pm

Cool beans, maties! Nice to see you using protection.

Funyan, you need a set of ice tools to climb ice.

jmac · Post by **jmac** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:42 am

Funyan005 wrote: ↑Is one axe enough or are ice tools required? If one axe I want in on the next trip!

According to http://www.calimountains.com/content.ph ... I-WI2-780m , the gear description reads "-Axe or two tools: One can bypass the pitches of ice." Sounds like you may be able to work with just your axe. Maybe someone with actual knowledge of the route could confirm. Seems like a good excuse to go out and pick up some ice tools, though.

Then you won't miss out on any of the fun. I'd like to check this route out one day, too!

Post by **Taco** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 12:15 pm

You can go up the mtn that way with one axe. You can climb the ice with one axe if you're accomplished in older ice climbing technique, which very few people around the world are nowadays because everyone uses two tools because it makes infinitely more sense. Much safer, more secure, better if your feet blow out, etc.

Funyun, if you want to come along, you only need one axe. If you want to CLIMB, you need two tools. However, you can make it to the bottom of the big falls with that one axe, and you can borrow some tools since only one dude will be climbing it at a time when we toprope it. Does that make sense? I'm not the best with words.

Burchey · Post by **Burchey** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:50 pm

Taco! On screws, loving my 360s so far

Couldn't talk my friends into the Matrix Lights, though. He's looking at the 52cm Sum'tecs when they come out with a hammer in March.

Blah.

Post by **Taco** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 4:10 pm

I need to play with the 360's. I've only ever used BD, Salewa, and Camp screws before. Cling clang!

TracieB · Post by **TracieB** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 4:37 pm

Wow nicely done

I'll just watch from the safety of my screen.

Burchey · Post by **Burchey** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 5:16 pm

Taco wrote: ↑I need to play with the 360's. I've only ever used BD, Salewa, and Camp screws before. Cling clang!

They are a thing of glory, Taco. Glory. They don't bite quite as quickly as the BDs do, but they go in SOOOO nice, and you can put them everywhere - even in your butt. Cheek, that is. What kind of a guy do you think I am???

Glute anchor FTW

Post by **Taco** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:19 pm

Lemme dull yers up. The screws, not your ass.

Burchey · Post by **Burchey** » Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:49 am

Dude. You can dull my screws ANY TIME

Post by **Taco** » Tue Jan 31, 2012 10:58 am

OK big boy make the drive all the way up here next time. It's even further than Lee Vining!