20110105 One Nut Wonder

Post by **Taco** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 6:53 am

BIFF BAM BOOOOM

JJ from Summitpost wanted to climb this route, so I offered to go up with him to show the way to it, and off the damn thing. The approach is a bit of a pain in the ass, and descent typically sucks a tiny bit as well. Patrick also wanted to go, so we met up at Ricehouse CYN parking lot and headed out before dawn.

We would get back to the cars before dusk. I think we were out for 11 hours. It was a nice hike and climb, but the new snow hadn't yet consolidated so we were going slower than normal.

Pics:

The gang headed up the un-named ridge to the base of the route. There are a few different ways to approach the base of the route. I chose this method as I figured it's better to posthole on a ridge than in deep snow in a gully.

In the usual approach gully

Getting to the base of the climbing

Crux pitch, bad ice.

Crux, and some ice on right.

Stomping down a belay platform

Looking down the approach gully

The crux fell apart (bad ice), so we went around to the left up an awkward mixed pitch on rock, snow, OK-ish ice (technical term), and stout bushes. Patrick moved off right up easier terrain to meet up with us a bit later.

Above the awkward bit

Artsy belay stance shot

We headed up the second pitch, through the narrow section which had some solid AI3 ice. I got bombed on and was hit by some big fast chunks of ice. Luckily, the big stuff wasn't flying when JJ came through. Gave him a break since he led the awkward pitch.

Down

Up

All above is 45-50 degree snow and alpine ice, so we started up. A lot of postholing this early in the season, so the going was quite damn slow.

On the face

I called out to Patrick where I figured we might be able to communicate clearly. You can see him on the spur in this photo...

He was having a lot of "fun" with deep snow.

Downtown LA

Almost there

Done!

Bowlers out there in their funny shoes.

LO! Patrick hath arriveth!!!

We moved north and descended to the south of the 3T's trail. Easy terrain, but the snow was too fresh to glissade.

In Cedar CYN

Golden Pacific

One Nut Wonder is the obvious couloir on the left, Patrick's spur in the middle, Cool Fun Route on the right leading to the top.

Fin

Dave G · Post by **Dave G** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 7:52 am

Nice! With better conditions that would be a fun route! 8)
Good on you for not killing off Patrick.

Post by **Taco** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 8:35 am

I'll get him next time!!!!

Yeah, the first time the route was a bit different. The lower part wasn't as fun, but the upper half was easier. Less postholing... until we got into good old Cedar Cyn!

Burchey · Post by **Burchey** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 8:47 am

Looks like a basket of fun, I can't wait to get back to the hills. This cubicle is killing me.

It's interesting how much the snow quality can make/break your trip. Hanging in the mountains is such a game of chance as far as current/past weather goes.

lilbitmo · Post by **lilbitmo** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 1:04 pm

Taco, thanks for leading the way, great route, great fun, lots of post holing, typical right after a few good days of fresh snow.

@Dave - without the harness I didn't feel comfortable doing the pure rock and ice sections, I paid the price in deep snow, some of it up to my waist and had to use the ice tools just to pull myself up one step at a time.

The ridge itself had mixed conditions, west facing (wind side) was icy and firm, east side was deep powder, both had their challenges. It was physically exhausting when you are in 40+ degree slopes taking one step up, then sliding slightly backwards on each step, those Ice Tools sure helped though, they are easy to bury with each plunge then use them to pull yourself upward enough to kick in the next step, then repeat the process, cannot wait to get a better pair and try it on ice with the right gear

I was thanking the heavens that it wasn't too sunny or too windy, I lost 5 pounds yesterday from the sweat that ran out of me, not kidding, glad this old man has been visiting the gym lately, at one point 3/4 of the way to the top I looked down at my choices of going down, then looked up and the less painful way was to continue up

All and all a fantastic day, hope that the snow firms up some more so we can all get out and enjoy it - see everyone Saturday.

My Pictures Here(some are copies of Taco's)

Post by **Taco** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 1:22 pm

Just in case anyone is wondering, I'm not slamming my pick into that sign, just trying to daintily rest it in a letter cutout.

lilbitmo · Post by **lilbitmo** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 1:24 pm

Taco wrote: ↑to daintily rest it in a letter cutout.

I'm glad you don't use that term "Daintily" too often, scares me to think of you doing so

Post by **Taco** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 1:27 pm

haha, I paused for a sec when I was typing that up!

Zach · Post by **Zach** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 3:02 pm

shizzle! Patrick's Spur looks wicked

secondlizard · Post by **secondlizard** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 6:55 pm

Congrats on a great day in the mountains. After what Patrick has done to me the past year I am glad to see that someone can kick his ass!!

Elwood · Post by **Elwood** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 9:09 pm

Just spectacular !

mve · Post by **mve** » Mon Jan 10, 2011 11:15 am

WOW that spur Patrick took seems like a nasty route especially from where you were standing.