20100705 Mormon Rocks

Post by **Taco** » Mon Jul 05, 2010 11:36 pm

Johnny and I went to check out a possible route on a spur-of-the-moment kinda thing. We didn't find the route I found beta for on the internet (at least I seriously doubt we did), but we did find some ancient slab route that was lots of fun.

Since it's pretty much im-freaking-possible for me to know the damn name of this route (assuming it has one, which it probably does), I labelled (not named, labelled, dammit) it "The Old Route". It goes at 5.6 and is real runout if you lead it, since there are only 3 pieces in its 48 meters or so. There are two pounded in BOMBER pitons, and one hangerless 1/4" bolt down low that you'd either have to equip with a nut and hanger, or sling with a steel draw and nut or nut (chock) cable, aid climbing style. It's a fun, easy slab route that has plenty of chicken heads and good holds throughout, with two good bolts with rings and hangers up top.

http://www.summitpost.org/route/635123/ ... h-48m.html

VIJJA:

Selected pics:

Route

Approach gully

Inexplicable bolts. I see lotsa inexplicable bolts (I love that word) in our mountains, with my conclusion being that someone placed them practicing how to place bolts correctly.

Big dropoff to the south

Route from up top

Throwing rope

On rapp

Piton

NICE! Hahahahah yeah, negative. It'll hold... no idea where the hell they went above this, if they did at all. Might've been an "oh shit" moment where they left this tat and "racing biner" here and boogied out.

Piton low on the route

Bolt

Johnny rapps

Johnny climbs and pull tests pitons. Result...

THEY'RE BOMBER!

Go fast

Climb

Happy

Sponsor dollars

Haul

Album here:
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y222/T ... n%20Rocks/

Post by **Hikin_Jim** » Tue Jul 06, 2010 8:43 am

Happy Taco

Sad Taco

Pissed off Taco

Glad to see you Taco

Depressed Taco

Elated Taco

Post by **Taco** » Tue Jul 06, 2010 4:38 pm

Looks about right.

tinaballina · Post by **tinaballina** » Tue Jul 06, 2010 5:05 pm

funky looking rock. when are we going somewhere that i can practice repelling?

PackerGreg · Post by **PackerGreg** » Tue Jul 06, 2010 8:10 pm

Inexplicable bolts...

Johnny Bronson · Post by **Johnny Bronson** » Tue Jul 06, 2010 10:53 pm

http://www.route66ca.org/traveler/towns ... 18toc.html

Man those pitons were quite stout!Gotta head back there soon and find the 5.9 "unknown route" and the original recce 5.8 route.Very fun place,the rocks are quite mesmerizing.Always wanted to climb there since I was a very young kid,thanks mr taco for accompanying,always good times.

PackerGreg · Post by **PackerGreg** » Tue Jul 06, 2010 11:06 pm

"Locally known as the Mormon Rocks, but officially called Rock Candy mountains, the strange rock formations are most unusual with holes everywhere poked out by the wind and weather through centuries..."

[/b]

Post by **Taco** » Wed Jul 07, 2010 12:51 pm

Tina, go with us here and you'll get good at raping fast and forwards and backwards and all that nonsense.

Post by **Hikin_Jim** » Wed Jul 07, 2010 1:01 pm

TacoDelRio wrote:Tina, go with us here and you'll get good at raping fast and forwards and backwards and all that nonsense.

This looks like a job for spell check!

Post by **Taco** » Wed Jul 07, 2010 2:15 pm

Hikin_Jim wrote:
TacoDelRio wrote:Tina, go with us here and you'll get good at raping fast and forwards and backwards and all that nonsense.
This looks like a job for spell check!

Obviously you've never gone camping with Tina before.

Yeah, I meant rapping. I screw up once amongst all the other Americans my age who can't spell worth a damn.

Post by **Hikin_Jim** » Wed Jul 07, 2010 2:29 pm

It was the backwards and forwards that got me. Never turn your back on Taco!

EManBevHills · Post by **EManBevHills** » Wed Jul 07, 2010 2:58 pm

You forgot to mention that Tina also finds it repelling.