Cucamonga Peak & A Question

kristo5747 · Post by **kristo5747** » Mon May 31, 2010 1:59 pm

Went to Cucamonga this past Sunday.

All went well until about 300 feet from the top. The trail was taken over by hard packed snow covered by a solid sheet of ice.

Harmed with an ice axe and crampons, I marched on. But the angle of the slope got steeper. There was no boot print for me to follow. The responsible thing to do was to turn around and call it a day. That pissed me off,

I am 100% clueless when it comes to mountaineering and climbing but I am 100% willing to learn.

Walking pigeon-toed with my crampons did not get me far. Could I possibly have setup a safety line or Is there a solo rappelling technique I could have used to get by and make it to the top?

I googled ice climbing techniques but the stuff I got was way over my head.

Any advice?

Thanks.

Al.

Post by **Taco** » Mon May 31, 2010 3:00 pm

I'm not quite sure what you mean. AFAIK there's no terrain on the north/regular side requiring any ropework.

How steep was it? What crampons are you using?

kristo5747 · Post by **kristo5747** » Mon May 31, 2010 3:38 pm

I just found that what I am talking about is called Top roping.

kristo5747 · Post by **kristo5747** » Mon May 31, 2010 3:43 pm

TacoDelRio wrote:I'm not quite sure what you mean. AFAIK there's no terrain on the north/regular side requiring any ropework.

How steep was it? What crampons are you using?

It looked like a 30 degree angle. To my untrained eye. And I have a pair of Camp Stalkers.

What I am trying to say is that, since I am by myself, is there a "safer" way to negociate this icy patch safely in case I wipe out? And I wonder if top roping would be the way?

Maybe top roping is complete overkill and I am a complete chicken s**t...I dunno.

I could use some advice.

Post by **Taco** » Mon May 31, 2010 4:07 pm

I think you're just uncomfortable with it, that's all. They should do fine, though I can only think of the slope you mention from the comfort of my chair.

Have you been able to do much snow climbing this season?

I think the best way to do this is to be there with you.

Cheers

kristo5747 · Post by **kristo5747** » Mon May 31, 2010 4:31 pm

TacoDelRio wrote:I think you're just uncomfortable with it, that's all. They should do fine, though I can only think of the slope you mention from the comfort of my chair.

Have you been able to do much snow climbing this season?

I think the best way to do this is to be there with you.

Cheers

This is the very first season I have done snow climbing.

You're probably right as far as being uncomfortable with it. I don't have a feel for it yet.

I agree that having an experienced guy like you to spot me would help. No doubt.

Post by **Taco** » Mon May 31, 2010 5:11 pm

Do you have any pictures of the slope?

You should come out to one of the trips I hold next season. Nothing tough, but you'll likely learn some things and gain some more confidence.

Sorry I'm not much help at the moment.

Hard to say things without being there.

Cheers

kristo5747 · Post by **kristo5747** » Mon May 31, 2010 5:32 pm

TacoDelRio wrote:Do you have any pictures of the slope?

You should come out to one of the trips I hold next season. Nothing tough, but you'll likely learn some things and gain some more confidence.

Sorry I'm not much help at the moment. Hard to say things without being there.

Cheers

Afraid not, no pictures.

Count me in on your trips (do you post the info here on the bboard?). I won't flake: I got to like snow climbing and I want to learn more.

BTW, I need tough trips. I am 45 y/o with a semi sedentary life style. Sweating does the body good.

Post by **Taco** » Mon May 31, 2010 6:08 pm

Posted up sometimes, though I try to keep it somewhat low profile.

You'll have a blast. We'll go up Baldy Brew couloir or something. A good climb.

kristo5747 · Post by **kristo5747** » Mon May 31, 2010 6:37 pm

TacoDelRio wrote:Posted up sometimes, though I try to keep it somewhat low profile.

You'll have a blast. We'll go up Baldy Brew couloir or something. A good climb.

That sounds fun. Looking forward to it.

hvydrt · Post by **hvydrt** » Mon May 31, 2010 7:10 pm

Do you have a copy of Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills? You can get a used copy on Half.com for like $3.00 http://product.half.ebay.com/Mountainee ... QprZ786679 Scroll down to the bottom.

Sounds like up were unsure of being able to self arrest if you slipped.

kristo5747 · Post by **kristo5747** » Mon May 31, 2010 8:21 pm

hvydrt wrote:Do you have a copy of Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills? You can get a used copy on Half.com for like $3.00 http://product.half.ebay.com/Mountainee ... QprZ786679 Scroll down to the bottom.

Sounds like up were unsure of being able to self arrest if you slipped.

I do now. Thanks for the link.

You're correct about self arrest. No idea how to.