Mt Shasta in 2010
Looks like we've got the beginning of a group. . .
I have wanted to climb Shasta for a few years and I have never made it up there, but this is the year. I have never climbed the mountain but I have done a lot of research and the main route up is Avalanche Gulch - it seems pretty straight forward and maybe even a little boring.
Casaval Ridge is what I am interested in doing, my plan was originally to go solo but my wife was scared of this route because all of the guided climbs do this route in rope teams. There are some steep sections around 60deg, but other than that it is supposed to be the most visually stunning route on the mountain -- except for maybe the glacier routes on the other side.
This route is best and really only in shape when the snow is good so the attempt would most likely be earlier in the year (March - April).
I will keep some updates posted on here but if we get a group of people really committed to this then obviously we should all meet up, talk, whatever to work out all the details.
I am so stoked I am gonna make a run up Baldy tomorrow AM early just because. . .
I have wanted to climb Shasta for a few years and I have never made it up there, but this is the year. I have never climbed the mountain but I have done a lot of research and the main route up is Avalanche Gulch - it seems pretty straight forward and maybe even a little boring.
Casaval Ridge is what I am interested in doing, my plan was originally to go solo but my wife was scared of this route because all of the guided climbs do this route in rope teams. There are some steep sections around 60deg, but other than that it is supposed to be the most visually stunning route on the mountain -- except for maybe the glacier routes on the other side.
This route is best and really only in shape when the snow is good so the attempt would most likely be earlier in the year (March - April).
I will keep some updates posted on here but if we get a group of people really committed to this then obviously we should all meet up, talk, whatever to work out all the details.
I am so stoked I am gonna make a run up Baldy tomorrow AM early just because. . .
- tinaballina
- Posts: 182
- Joined: Thu Jun 18, 2009 11:28 am
i would be interested if i don't summit this weekend. the odds are kind of against me doing so, snow/snow and more snow.
Let's have an SGMDF dayclimb of it via anything other than Avy Gulch. 8) Food and drinks at the Black Bear Diner. They've got bad ass Eggs Benedict. 8)tinaballina wrote:i would do it in a day as well taco.
Casaval Ridge -- January 3, 2010
With more snow on it's way now through next Friday, the ridge is shaping up for a good early spring season.
PS: Just signed up for Rainier with IMG - May 21-24. I will have both of my New Year's Resolutions off my list before June. I guess I'll just take the rest of the year off after that!
With more snow on it's way now through next Friday, the ridge is shaping up for a good early spring season.
PS: Just signed up for Rainier with IMG - May 21-24. I will have both of my New Year's Resolutions off my list before June. I guess I'll just take the rest of the year off after that!
- tinaballina
- Posts: 182
- Joined: Thu Jun 18, 2009 11:28 am
We didn't get far because of the bad post holing and weather started up. Now i have to go back.
- tinaballina
- Posts: 182
- Joined: Thu Jun 18, 2009 11:28 am
A cool jet stream forming around shasta pic:
I have had a couple of PMs about this trip so I thought I would post some generic answers to what I was thinking about when I started this post:
DATES: April 16-19 or April 23-26
I am flexible on this and for me it depends on weather but if people who want to go need to start requesting work off then maybe we just pick dates and get something set.
ROUTES: Casaval Ridge or Avalanche Gulch
I prefer Casaval Ridge. I think if you have competent self-arrest and crampon skills this route should be fine. Guided groups rope up for safety but there is no technical climbing per se on this route. The danger is constant traverse on 40-55 degree slopes with long run-outs -- so if you fall and don't arrest you are in for a long and painful ride.
If the majority of the group is confident in their skills then Casaval Ridge is a good choice, if the majority of the group is not so confident I am not opposed to Avalanche Gulch -- I was going to solo this anyway when I first started thinking about this last year.
CLIMBING ITINERARY: 2 days. Day 1~ 6,000 ft to 10-11,000 ft and Day 2 early alpine summit push.
Some have suggested we climb Shasta in one day. . .that is not my speed. I will get there when I get there most days but I like to enjoy my suffering.
My plan is a little more leisurely. . .drive up on a Friday. Saturday climb from Bunny Flats to 10-11K feet, camp. Sunday alpine start and summit, back to Shasta for a good meal and either camp that night again or start the drive home and find a hotel. Drive home Monday. That may be too slow for some but that was my original idea.
These are my thoughts. I am for sure going one of these two weekends and I am happy to have the company so if this sounds good, PM me and we can firm up some plans.
Cheers,
Greg
DATES: April 16-19 or April 23-26
I am flexible on this and for me it depends on weather but if people who want to go need to start requesting work off then maybe we just pick dates and get something set.
ROUTES: Casaval Ridge or Avalanche Gulch
I prefer Casaval Ridge. I think if you have competent self-arrest and crampon skills this route should be fine. Guided groups rope up for safety but there is no technical climbing per se on this route. The danger is constant traverse on 40-55 degree slopes with long run-outs -- so if you fall and don't arrest you are in for a long and painful ride.
If the majority of the group is confident in their skills then Casaval Ridge is a good choice, if the majority of the group is not so confident I am not opposed to Avalanche Gulch -- I was going to solo this anyway when I first started thinking about this last year.
CLIMBING ITINERARY: 2 days. Day 1~ 6,000 ft to 10-11,000 ft and Day 2 early alpine summit push.
Some have suggested we climb Shasta in one day. . .that is not my speed. I will get there when I get there most days but I like to enjoy my suffering.
My plan is a little more leisurely. . .drive up on a Friday. Saturday climb from Bunny Flats to 10-11K feet, camp. Sunday alpine start and summit, back to Shasta for a good meal and either camp that night again or start the drive home and find a hotel. Drive home Monday. That may be too slow for some but that was my original idea.
These are my thoughts. I am for sure going one of these two weekends and I am happy to have the company so if this sounds good, PM me and we can firm up some plans.
Cheers,
Greg
The Mt. Shasta Avalanche Center - US Forest Service
Update on Wednesday, 1/20/10 @ 6 pm:
Well, this storm is starting to really show it's effects: trees falling left and right, major power outages, road closures and plenty of very wet snow! Due to power outages, we are unable to retrieve weather data from our remote stations. Needless to say, we have had 5-7 feet of snow over the last couple days and moderate winds near tree line. These have created dangerous avalanche conditions and an Avalanche Warning has been posted. Monday and Tuesday were precipitation records for Mt. Shasta City and our total has helped us catch up and pass what is normal for this time of the year - at least 113% of normal.
"Unusual weather creates unusual avalanches and YOU should use unusual precautions!" -Avy Guru, Doug Fesler Need I say anything more? Be safe out there!
Update on Wednesday, 1/20/10 @ 6 pm:
Well, this storm is starting to really show it's effects: trees falling left and right, major power outages, road closures and plenty of very wet snow! Due to power outages, we are unable to retrieve weather data from our remote stations. Needless to say, we have had 5-7 feet of snow over the last couple days and moderate winds near tree line. These have created dangerous avalanche conditions and an Avalanche Warning has been posted. Monday and Tuesday were precipitation records for Mt. Shasta City and our total has helped us catch up and pass what is normal for this time of the year - at least 113% of normal.
"Unusual weather creates unusual avalanches and YOU should use unusual precautions!" -Avy Guru, Doug Fesler Need I say anything more? Be safe out there!
- tinaballina
- Posts: 182
- Joined: Thu Jun 18, 2009 11:28 am
hey greg, you still planning to do shasta? In particular april 16-18th? my climbing partners flaked i am looking to do this.
Did anyone climb Shasta?
I'm going to be up in the Sacramento area for a big part of May, so I'm going to climb Shasta at least once while I'm up there. I'd like to do Casaval Ridge, but I have some concerns with route finding, so I might do Avalanche Gulch instead, and if I have time, go back again and give Casaval Ridge a try. The more I think about it, the more I want to climb Casaval Ridge instead of Avalanche Gulch. Has anyone here climbed Shasta via Casaval Ridge?
My plan is to do the climbs in a day, but no set date. Since my schedule is flexible, I'm just going to keep my eye on the weather forecast, and go when conditions are favorable.
I'm going to be up in the Sacramento area for a big part of May, so I'm going to climb Shasta at least once while I'm up there. I'd like to do Casaval Ridge, but I have some concerns with route finding, so I might do Avalanche Gulch instead, and if I have time, go back again and give Casaval Ridge a try. The more I think about it, the more I want to climb Casaval Ridge instead of Avalanche Gulch. Has anyone here climbed Shasta via Casaval Ridge?
My plan is to do the climbs in a day, but no set date. Since my schedule is flexible, I'm just going to keep my eye on the weather forecast, and go when conditions are favorable.
- tinaballina
- Posts: 182
- Joined: Thu Jun 18, 2009 11:28 am
WINSTONNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN,
Long time my friend. I am going to attempt shasta again may 22nd. doing CR and coming down AG most likely. Email me and i will give you my details.
Miss ya.
Long time my friend. I am going to attempt shasta again may 22nd. doing CR and coming down AG most likely. Email me and i will give you my details.
Miss ya.