Went up Big Butch Wash (sounds like a coin laundry for lesbians), climbed partway up Lightning Couloir in order to access a side route. Climbed some easy ice to a long face of snow, into a narrow couloir of yet more snow. Thought the name "Safety Dance" was appropriate, as you weren't getting shot at by the mountain on this route. Also, since there was a short step of waterfall ice at the start, you got to dance.
I've had the idea of an enchainment on my mind, since I didn't feel the same challenge I had when I sucked more at climbing. I went to go check out the couloir to the right of One Nut Wonder (http://www.summitpost.org/route/476799/ ... 7-ai3.html). The approach to the real west face of Tele blows ass. It sucked even more with a ton of snow. The postholing wasn't extreme, but moving up 40 degree snow sinking to your knees is a bitch, and it lasted for a longass time.
The route was easy, and I couldn't think of a name then, except One Knee Blunder, because my left knee felt like shit the entire day. I dunno. Anyway, there are a few steps of ice climbing on the route, up to WI2, and most of the route at the moment is soft snow, up to your ankles, nothing too bad. Route goes up a couloir before it jumps onto the southwest ridge of Tele, then to the south summit of Tele.
Hike over to the wide, low angle not-as-west face of Tele, and went down without much pain. Hiked up Thunder from the saddle, straight up the east ridge, in a lot of pain. Hike down south bowl or whatever to Big Butch and my car. Knee felt horrible. Oh well, big deal.
Some pics.
Lightning in the morning
Ice to the right of Lightning was good, under a buncha powder.
Up Lightning
First ice step of Safety Dance.
Looking down while on Safety Dance
The face Safety Dance climbs
Good ol' foot shot
Looking down Lightning after climbing Safety ~~~~.
Slim Jim was a bad idea.
See the specks moving? Party of three, one dude owns an Audi TT and another an A4. You guys on here?
West Face of Tele. Route I took this time starts at those three trees just right of the middle of the picture, and heads up the couloir.
Looking at the crux of One Nut Wonder. Bigass rock yeah blah blah im tired gimme a friggin' break.
This pic was taken way the hell up the route. Finished a short section of WI2 or whatever damned numerical value people want to attach to some damn fun ice off the deck.
Yay weather! Zero precip.
Down, with my arm.
The ridge
Tree on ridge.
Summit of south side
Time for BEER! A happy time.
Funny picture.
Boring, "mature" picture with but a smile.
Cornice with Tele's NWF.
Whiteouts on Baldy are lots of fun.
Lightning at sunset.
Sunset pics
Drove home on Glendora Ridge Road to Glendora Mountain Road. I love these roads. I killed many furry innocent animals and laughed. I also sent a bus full of politically-correct lesbian nuns over the edge with my reckless driving. Went at a cruising pace, and stopped at the saddle with GMR with my front brakes pouring out more smoke than I'd ever seen. Took a break and went slow(er) down GMR. Almost hit a few people in Glendora on the street who decided tonight would be an awesome night to play "invisible pedestrian", and go for walks in the street wearing dark colors.
First time I'd driven these roads in a long time. Sucks being broke. The time will come again.
