Gripping Half Dome Story
If I ever do Half Dome again, I would wear a climbing harness and clip into the cables. One of these days, someone up high on the cables will slip and knock the people below off like bowling pins. There is not much footing when the granite is dry. When it gets wet, it is like motor oil.
We did Half Dome the day after Labor Day, 2008. There were people around, but the cables were not crazy crowded. I had no problems going up, but on the way down both feet slipped out from under me. I was wearing a pair of leather palmed rope gloves bought at REI just for this hike. They saved the day. Here are the happy hikers on top with Clouds Rest in the background.
Gripping Half Dome story? And HOW! 
The best way to do Half Dome is to come up the day before and camp in Little Yosemite or somewhere near Half Dome. Then get up early and climb the dome early in the morning -- before the hordes coming up from the valley and even other b'packers get there.
So what kind of rig would clip into the cables well? Maybe just a lark's head knot or other hitch tied to the cable and the other end secured to one's harness? You'd have to untie and re-tie at each pole, which would suck. Maybe a loop in the end of your rope made with a butterfly knot and a carabiner. It wouldn't lock into place like a prusik or a bachman, but you wouldn't fall any further than the nearest downhill pole.
The best way to do Half Dome is to come up the day before and camp in Little Yosemite or somewhere near Half Dome. Then get up early and climb the dome early in the morning -- before the hordes coming up from the valley and even other b'packers get there.
So what kind of rig would clip into the cables well? Maybe just a lark's head knot or other hitch tied to the cable and the other end secured to one's harness? You'd have to untie and re-tie at each pole, which would suck. Maybe a loop in the end of your rope made with a butterfly knot and a carabiner. It wouldn't lock into place like a prusik or a bachman, but you wouldn't fall any further than the nearest downhill pole.
I do like a person with an open mind.I had been planning this trip with my 3 children, niece and nephew, along with a boyfriend, girlfriend, and a husband;
Nunc est bibendum
In the book "Deep Survival" the author covers this in detail, that a system can break down and break down fast, it also indicates that by chaos theory alone it suggest that their should be more "Deaths" from the breakdown of the "System" (in this case the cables as the safety net for getting up and down).
I cannot image a hundred people above me on those things on a wet or rainy day - it would scare the hell out of me that the biggest one would fall and start an avalanche of dominos (people in this case). And it scares me to think that someone did not suggest to that young lady that she would need better gloves, stick by her closer (someone with better skills) and that anyone would convince her to keep going when she was already fatigued as suggested in the story.
The only time I would consider going up those cables is at sunrise with only a few other people in dry conditions, I've taken a small tumble on wet "granite" it's no fun and it hurts - what's the point? How does the theme song for "MASH" go - "suicide is easy"
I cannot image a hundred people above me on those things on a wet or rainy day - it would scare the hell out of me that the biggest one would fall and start an avalanche of dominos (people in this case). And it scares me to think that someone did not suggest to that young lady that she would need better gloves, stick by her closer (someone with better skills) and that anyone would convince her to keep going when she was already fatigued as suggested in the story.
The only time I would consider going up those cables is at sunrise with only a few other people in dry conditions, I've taken a small tumble on wet "granite" it's no fun and it hurts
- what's the point? How does the theme song for "MASH" go - "suicide is easy" I understand one of the best reasons for an early start on Half Dome is the weather often deteriorates in the afternoon.Hikin_Jim wrote:The best way to do Half Dome is to come up the day before and camp in Little Yosemite or somewhere near Half Dome. Then get up early and climb the dome early in the morning -- before the hordes coming up from the valley and even other b'packers get there.
There's a video on YouTube somewhere of a couple of kids using quickdraws on the cables. They are pretty fast. I believe each kid had two quickdraws, one on each cable, so that when they unclipped one to get past a pole, they were still clipped in other other side.Hikin_Jim wrote:So what kind of rig would clip into the cables well? Maybe just a lark's head knot or other hitch tied to the cable and the other end secured to one's harness? You'd have to untie and re-tie at each pole, which would suck. Maybe a loop in the end of your rope made with a butterfly knot and a carabiner.
If I had kids and they were on that mountain, I for sure would have them using quickdraws. I think it would be a good idea to at least have a couple in your pack, in case someone was having trouble getting down and you wanted a secure way to rest. For an exhausted person to use the quickdraws in the way the kids in the video were using them would probably actually be more dangerous.
But I'm just handwaving here. I've never been on Half Dome and don't have any burning desire ever to climb it.
Nunc est bibendum
Last summer when I did Half Dome with my teen-age daughter, we wore harness and had two each of slings and biners. You don't want to see your loved ones die. Before leaving home, I let her practice, clip, climb, unclip. When climbing, I was too busy assisting my daughter and had no chance to use mine. 
When going down, I slipped once, but my right hand had a grip on the cable and wasn't scary at all. People coming up saw me slip and screamed.
When going down, I slipped once, but my right hand had a grip on the cable and wasn't scary at all. People coming up saw me slip and screamed. 
Wow, that is some story. I've only hiked Half Dome once and I did it at (you guessed it) 2pm on a Saturday in June. It was jammed packed and definitely more scary because of the crowd. It took a little over an hour to reach the top. I remember the granite between the cables was pretty slick. Some people would not move up until the slat above them was vacated. But usually you went up anyway. So you often had to stand still for a long time while in between the slats and on the slick granite. I tried different ways to orient my feet to get the best grip and I unweighted my feet a bit by using the cables. I took it seriously like any other climb so I was focused and conscious of all the normal things like where your hands and feet are, how much pressure you have on each and where to transfer that weight if one feels like it's going to let go, etc. Climbing is serious business. You really don't want to make a mistake.
Anyhow, Ze asked about that ledge. These are the only pictures I could come up with. She is very lucky she stopped where she did. As you can see, she was still a ways up.
Anyhow, Ze asked about that ledge. These are the only pictures I could come up with. She is very lucky she stopped where she did. As you can see, she was still a ways up.
Call me overly cautious but I'm planning on doing this and I will have my harness and Via Ferrata Lanyard
Even if I am able to successfully able to negotiate the cables if someone else slips and falls into me I could fall...Seems and unnecessary risk to me when I possess the equipment & know how to be safe
Is it overkill... Yes
Would it be bad if I fell..you bet
I suppose a couple Purcell Prussic's would work too, or a screamer and a couple lanyards or?
Matt
Even if I am able to successfully able to negotiate the cables if someone else slips and falls into me I could fall...Seems and unnecessary risk to me when I possess the equipment & know how to be safe
Is it overkill... Yes
Would it be bad if I fell..you bet
I suppose a couple Purcell Prussic's would work too, or a screamer and a couple lanyards or?
Matt
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glamisking
- Posts: 89
- Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 4:04 pm
that was an intense and personal story.
I have been up half dome more times then I can count starting about age 10. Personally I have always felt quite secure using the cables. I believe the system while potentially risky, is adequate. Thousands of people of every age, shape and skill level safely use them each summer. The few deaths that have occurred have been due to morons who go outside the cables to pass others. And I don't feel that the domino theory of one person slipping and taking out dozens below is probable.
One year I climbed it twice in a week with a cast on my left wrist. Still no problem. But as said cold and wet conditions can severely compromise the system.
Some would conclude we must eliminate this risk: an escalator would make access safe for all! But what's the fun in that. Adventure and calculated risk is the name of the game.
I have been up half dome more times then I can count starting about age 10. Personally I have always felt quite secure using the cables. I believe the system while potentially risky, is adequate. Thousands of people of every age, shape and skill level safely use them each summer. The few deaths that have occurred have been due to morons who go outside the cables to pass others. And I don't feel that the domino theory of one person slipping and taking out dozens below is probable.
One year I climbed it twice in a week with a cast on my left wrist. Still no problem. But as said cold and wet conditions can severely compromise the system.
Some would conclude we must eliminate this risk: an escalator would make access safe for all! But what's the fun in that. Adventure and calculated risk is the name of the game.