Baldy North Face Kinda Stuff

Post by **Taco** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 11:39 pm

Looking to do a few 1-2 day (as work allows) ascents of some stuff I've plotted out on Mt Baldy's North Face in the near future. Looks like some winter weather this week of January 20th, guess we'll see how it goes. I've got about 4 or 5 different lines lined up, just curious if anyone wanted to go.

Still iffy as to where to start the approach.

1. Manker Flats, hike up Baldy, to Dawson, down Dawson's west ridge, then go into the canyon and start from there. Route ends on Baldy or West Baldy (depends on route), go back down Bowl to Wanker Flats.

2. Wrightwood, over Wright, Pine, and Dawson, down Dawson west ridge, etc, and back out.
3. Lytle Creek to Dogbone Canyon (if that road is in any condition.... 3n06C or something?), up Dawson (another possible new route up NE side with big gully), down Dawson West ridge, top out and head back. Not so cool about the canyon between Dawson and Pine, from negative experiences in canyon between Dawson and Baldy/Harwood in past.

Or anything else.

-=Route details=-

-Routes (the actual "fun" part) are between 700-900 meters of sustained climbing, with several routes going through a sort of "black pyramid", which should be some tough traditional mixed climbing, probably all less than M4-M5 as the rock here doesn't support much of anything.

-Special Equipment: One axe and crampons, hardshells as it's probably gonna be really friggin' windy, snow pickets harnesses etc for steep snow/easy alpine ice climb.

-Etc

Should be fun. Probably a long approach, a sustained and tough route in my opinion, by any option. Looking for partners. 8)

He219 · Post by **He219** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 7:26 am

What about up that Iron Mountain Needle Couloir west ridge route to Baldy over Harwood onto Telescope Peak and back RickKent camel style with no water but lotsa beer and some fried Spam?

simonov · Post by **simonov** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 7:38 am

TacoDelRio wrote:Should be fun. Probably a long approach, a sustained and tough route in my opinion, by any option. Looking for partners. 8)

I wanna do this, but I don't yet have the gear or the experience.

Post by **Taco** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 1:29 pm

He219 wrote: What about up that Iron Mountain Needle Couloir west ridge route to Baldy over Harwood onto Telescope Peak and back RickKent camel style with no water but lotsa beer and some fried Spam?

Nexte Mittwoch, mit keine Wasser. 8)

Travis · Post by **Travis** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 8:43 pm

I really love the idea of climbing Baldy's north face, but also fall into the catergory of lacking gear and experince. I have never done any mixed climbing with a rope or pro. I am comfortable on sustained 3rd class unroped with sections of 4th class. I have only used ice axe and crampons a couple times. I hope to get a little more practice this weekend in Baldy's bowl and practice self arrest. I also am going to buy a harness (had one, got stolen before I was able to use it).

Plus with my family commitments I am limited to day climbs only (might be able to squeeze out an overnighter for my B-day next month).

I have been envious of your adventures and feel like I am missing out on some awsome winter climbing. If I can get some practice and a little more experience I would love to join you,

Post by **Taco** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 10:39 pm

Suxxorz.

Hopefully you can go on some of the ones this Spring.

Might go do this tomorrow, with the winter-ish weather we're having. Got a little bit crazy with the cappucino machine tonight, so I've got a ton of espresso shots through me... won't sleep for a while.

"Hooah"