Where Koreans Kongregate: Kelly's Kamp 20-21 June 2009

[simonov]

As part of my series of noob backpacking trips for the OCHBC, this last weekend I took a small group up Icehouse Canyon to Ontario Peak and spent the night at Kelly's Camp. I made a couple of unexpected discoveries over the weekend that I thought I would share.

Because it was a noob hike, I scheduled a 9:00am start, which is a lot later than I like. When we got to the trailhead the parking lot was full, with scores of middle-aged Koreans milling around.



They were waiting for a 9:00 departure themselves, though I saw a least a few couples just drive back down the mountain when they couldn't find a place to park. After I parked my Yukon down the hill a bit on a turnout, I walked back up to the trailhead and got there a little after 9:00 and all the Koreans were gone.

No matter, we spent the entire hike up to Icehouse Saddle mingling with other groups of hikers, mostly Koreans. It was a real zoo.

But the weather was gorgeous while, as we could see, the rest of SoCal was socked in under the marine layer.



The noobs were a little surprised by how steep the trail was, but I found, having spent every weekend for the last month or so backpacking, that I had no problems. My pack was the lightest it had been for a long time.



It took us a long time to get to Icehouse Saddle, because a couple of the noobs were moving slowly, but when we eventually pulled into Kelly's Camp, I made the first crucial discovery of the weekend: Kelly's Camp is where the Icehouse Canyon Koreans go! At least 30 or 40 of them had preceded us into the camp, where they set up a big tarp to sit on and were chatting animatedly over their trail lunches. More Koreans drifted in as we set up camp.

I got a new tent this week and set it up fly and all, which is unusual for me, since the weather forecast had been uncertain.



There is plenty of water right now flowing from the upper pipe.



After we set up camp and rested for a while, four of us began heading up to Ontario Peak.

The climb up to Ontario Peak along the trail is my favorite hike in the San Gabriel Mountains. The forest of snags is eerie and strange, a unique SoCal landscape.





The noobs were as impressed as I was with the scenery. In due time we made the summit, though none of us was brave enough to climb to the top of the pointy rock for photo ops. We were too mindful of the consequences of a fall, so far away from any help.



We headed back down after 4:00pm, which was the latest turnaround I'd ever done. But we were camped only a couple miles away and it was the day before the solstice, so there were no worries. We got back with plenty of time to make dinner and play Hearts until it was dark and it got too cold to stay outside.

While we were fooling around with our evening meals, I made the second discovery of the weekend: Kelly's Camp is really a very nice trail camp. I have never heard much about it, since I think we all dismiss it as nothing more than a stop on the way to Ontario Peak, and maybe a little too close to a busy trailhead. But it is quiet and pretty and sheltered from the wind. As the shadows grew long I decided I quite liked staying there. I especially appreciate the proximity to Ontario Peak.

During the night, however, the airliners seemed to fly overhead almost constantly. I guess the Cucamonga Wilderness is right under the approach path to LAX.

The next morning we broke camp and started back down the trail:



Heading down, I decided to explore the Chapman Trail, which I had never hiked before, and check out Cedar Glen trail camp. The Chapman Trail adds two miles to the hike to Icehouse Canyon trailhead, but it has a gentle slope and is pretty much deserted. Since it remains much higher than the traditional trail, you also have some really nice views of Icehouse Canyon far below.



When we got back to the trailhead a little after 10:00, the parking lot was again full of cars, be we only met four people on the Chapman Trail. So it seems to be a quiet alternative to the crowded Icehouse Canyon Trail.

Cedar Glen is a pretty trail camp surrounded by tall trees. It seems to be appropriate for large groups, which, given its close proximity to the trailhead, suggests a lot of scouts and church groups go there. There was no one there when we passed through:



One downside to the Chapman Trail, for people (like me) with tender feet, is that much of it crosses talus slopes and so for a lot of the trail you are walking on rocks. It's rough going at times.

There is a sort of brush holly growing along the Chapman Trail that was in bloom in the lower elevations:



Can anyone identify this flower?



When we got back to the parking lot, I walked down the road a ways and was gratified to see my Yukon still in its turnout, windows intact, no citation. I went back for the noobs and we had a late breakfast at the Buckhorn Lodge which has the following points in its favor compared to the Baldy Lodge:

1) The Buckhorn Lodge is open at 8:00 (maybe sooner), whereas the Baldy Lodge doesn't open until 10:00 or 11:00. WTF?

2) The Buckhorn Lodge serves absolutely divine home fried potatoes cooked in butter, whereas the Baldy Lodge's hashbrowns are those horrible frozen things cooked indifferently and soft and watery when they are served.

3) The Buckhorn Lodge has outdoor seating.

4) The Buckhorn Lodge has more than three parking spaces.

Simonov recommends the Buckhorn Lodge!

Moar photos (uncaptioned as yet)

[mattmaxon]

Fremontodendron mexicanum; Mexican flannelbush

Can anyone identify this flower?

[RichardK]

simonov - We just missed you Saturday. My wife and I hiked Timber Mtn. leaving the trailhead about 10AM going up the Chapman Trail (the best little trail in the west, I call it) and returning via the canyon. The Korean Hiking Club discovered Icehouse Canyon a few years ago increasing traffic on the trail dramatically. Unfortunately, the trail is showing the increased wear and tear from all of the switchback cutting. Where the trail crosses steep slopes, the edge is being worn away by people stepping down the slopes. New use trails are being cut across the shallower sections. You would think that, of all groups, a hiking club would know better. Oh well. Nice trip report - thanks for posting.

[simonov]

Thanks, mattmaxon.

Unfortunately, the trail is showing the increased wear and tear from all of the switchback cutting. Where the trail crosses steep slopes, the edge is being worn away by people stepping down the slopes.

I haven't made a careful study of it, but I don't think I've ever seen one of those middle-aged Koreans cut a trail. They do tend to stamp out new "turnouts" when lots of them decide to take a break at the same time, as, for example, next to Columbine Spring.

However, there was a group of young Indians on the trail with us on Saturday that was cutting switchbacks at every opportunity. I also know from history and experience that Boy Scout troops can be notorious trail cutters.

[outwhere]

2) The Buckhorn Lodge serves absolutely divine home fried potatoes cooked in butter, whereas the Baldy Lodge's hashbrowns are those horrible frozen things cooked indifferently and soft and watery when they are served.

Now you're talking my hiking language Great TR but when you go into home fries, my feet get real happy.

One of my favorite memories of Buckhorn, we roll in for breakfast, about the only ones in there, first thing we see coming out of the kitchen area, a huge St. Bernard!!

The big old dog comes right over to our table and lays down by my feet! OK, aint ever seen that happen before...

Then, our waiter appears, and why shouldn't he be wearing a purple bath robe, tussled hair added more proof that he just woke up --- and why shouldn't he pull up a chair and take our order

Those two scenes mighta ran off most people, not us, grub was on our minds! Food was great, probably not the best idea to stuff the belly before a Baldy hike, but oh well, we made it, despite pancakes making us slower.

Went there for lunch one time, patio setting was quite nice, hamburgers weren't too good though. Hope they improved on those.

Very interesting to hear that planes fly over ya throughout the night - woulda never guessed that.

Cool TR Simonov!!

[Taco]

Excellent TR. I still haven't been to BH Lodge.

[Hikin_Jim]

Good stuff. I too think Kelly's is one of the nicer trail camps in the SG's.

[Richard N.]

Nice photo's of your hike.
I was over on Throop Hawkins and Burnham Saturday and we had the Koreans as well. They seem to be everywhere.
Although Ice House Canyon has seen an increase in the Koreans over the years. If you want to park in the main lot, you should plan on a 7:00am start.

The snags as you so eloquently put it on Ontario is what left of the forest from the 1976 fire. When I hike Ontario in 88' we didn't even see any new seedlings. Are there any pines growing today??
Over on Hawkins where the Curve Fire swept over, the forest is really full of new seedlings. Some about 3' high. That forest will look nice again some day but not in my lifetime.

I'm planning a hike up Ice House to Ontario, Big Horn, Cucamonga and the Etiwanda.
It will make for a nice full day.

[simonov]

The snags as you so eloquently put it on Ontario is what left of the forest from the 1976 fire. When I hike Ontario in 88' we didn't even see any new seedlings. Are there any pines growing today??

Very few. We commented on it as we climbed. It seems very strange that it should take over thirty years for the new forest to begin taking root.

[Hikin_Jim]

Cedar Glen is a pretty trail camp surrounded by tall trees. It seems to be appropriate for large groups, which, given its close proximity to the trailhead, suggests a lot of scouts and church groups go there.

Did you notice if the little creek was flowing or not ? I'm thinking of heading to Cedar Glen sometime soon.

The snags as you so eloquently put it on Ontario is what left of the forest from the 1976 fire. When I hike Ontario in 88' we didn't even see any new seedlings. Are there any pines growing today??

Very few. We commented on it as we climbed. It seems very strange that it should take over thirty years for the new forest to begin taking root.

I've been going up Ontario for a number of years. Very little progress in terms of reforestation has occured. I think that the recent sightings of trees finally springing up is the first real progress. I just hope the drought doesn't kill them now that they've gotten a start.

[Ze Hiker]

However, there was a group of young Indians on the trail with us on Saturday that was cutting switchbacks at every opportunity. I also know from history and experience that Boy Scout troops can be notorious trail cutters.

man I even had some people in my group suddenly try to cut switchbacks on the way up to Baden-Powell. had to give a stern lecture. especially on these nice and well used trails, gotta keep them in good shape.