20080111 Sugarloaf Peak Mixed Climbing Attempt

[Taco]

An attempt, rather. Got the idea by looking up from Icehouse Canyon over the past 800 times going through there, and seeing the cool rock up on the southern side, north faces. Yadda yadda yadda.

On the short walk in, I just picked one that looked good, and moved towards it.


That couloir up there looks good...



That big crack would be the one.

It looked like it might hold some ice (HAH!), and provide some stemming or otherwise somewhat secure form of ascent. Just to ruin the surprise, the water was flowing, and there was no ice, just snow with a weak crust over it. YAY! Crap.



The approach. Short, but on the way back, I fell down kinda hard due to not being able to see any rocks under the crappy snow. Too slippery for boots, and uneasy with crampons. Crampons won out.



Telegraph Peak looking awesome.



Looking up at the waterfall.


Axes and stuff for rappelling, since I was alone. Though I did not rappel, I was VERY glad I brought my harness, rope, runners, etc, as the terrain here is very technical in lotsa places. Ended up ditching the tether system I put on my tools in place of their leashes, as it gets in the way. Gonna try a shock-cord style setup.


Me, on timer.


Lower down on the waterfall. I didn't get up far, but feel that either on TR with canyoneering style anchors, or just protecting the pitch with larger nuts or cams (if you can get a dry spot) would yield good climbing.


Drytooled up to a stance, snapped this shot. Downclimbed and passed on the right side of the waterfall.


The second "pitch", where it dumps out here and goes up a second waterfall. I made it up into the second waterfall to the dark area, then turned back and made slow progress while fooling with gear, and generally losing my temper. Got very pumped on some parts, as I couldn't keep my heels low with crampons on.


Looking up.



Looking down, deceptively easy looking.


More of the waterfall.




Soemone musta been doing some canyoneering... not the best looking "rope"...

Took me an hour plus to move about 100 meters. Stopped constantly to fool with my giant old digital camera, crappy ice tool tethers, and all sortsa crap bugging me.

With a rock rack (larger nuts and chocks), a partner, and a COOOOLD day, I think this would kick ass.

Second attempt on Sugarloaf, and no cigar. Such a short peak with such cool climbing.

Ended with Elvis leg.

[Hikin_Jim]

cool TR, Taco. Good to see the snow is still sticking pretty well even though it's been hot.


Be careful out there on solos in Winter, bro. My pa died on one of those, and I came pretty close doing some back country skiing in '01 in Canada.


Looks like a fun day ... climb on!

[Taco]

I hear ya, and I remember reading about your Father.

I am careful. I turn back somewhat often. Haven't reached a summit since December 23. But, they'll be there for a long time.

[Augie]

Great TR Ryan. Looks like you were prepared for almost anything. That rope you found hanging out there looks like it would be good only for wrapping garbage! As for not getting to the peak, I can take or leave getting to a peak, as long as you have some adventure--and it looks like you did.

[Taco]

I learned what I need for the next time out. Gotta build up my rack.