20090314 Telegraph Peak FIGHTING BEARS WITH MISSILES

Post by **Taco** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 5:53 pm

Snazzy title.

Just got a new pair of Grivel Matrix Light tools in yesterday, and I wanted to scratch them up and go get hit by falling rocks. They're nice, just have to do something with hard ice.

Started up Lightning Couloir at dawn. Heard that sickening sound of rocks whizzing past, so I got the f*ck outta there and went to Miner's Bowl and onto the road to that overpriced ski lodge at the notch where they now play really loud music over loudspeakers that can be heard atop Telegraph Peak with wind. Totally sweet wilderness experience.

Went on that road that eventually ends up at the stunning summit of Thunder, and stopped at that first notch north of Thunder where you get the view of Telegraph Peak's NW Face. Took a break, looked at my options, and went down from there into Coldwater Canyon. There were a handful of steep sections where you have to Tarzan off of some bushes to get down without twisting an ankle.

The snow down in the canyon was real nice for boarding and such (I don't ski or board, just saying). Started up the large and most prominent couloir to the north of the NW face, and that was easy and done before I knew what hit me. Up, hang a right just before hitting the ridge, go up a second gully, that drops you on the ridge, go up and you're at the summit. Easy peasy.

I wasn't expecting to go this fast (real fast and safe with two tools instead of one axe), so I stayed up there for a few hours. Talked to a guy who's name I cannot remember (wearing Trango's). Watched Miguel climb up the Northwest Face. We talked for a long time about all kinds of mountain stuff. Met LD (herro sah!), everyone ate, then we all headed down. Down the west side (easy side with 3-T's trail), to Thunder Summit, down the west side of Thunder into Big Butch Wash/Miners Bowl, then south, passed Lightning Couloir, and straight to the cars. Bam.

Photobucket is being incredibly retarded (SURPRISE!!!!!), so no pics at the moment.

Post by **Taco** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 6:34 pm

Holy crap, Photobucket is working. The end is near.

The start of Lightning Couloir. More rockfall, big surprise, right?

Ze moon

AXES OF EVIL in Lightning

Axes near the reservoir on Baldy Road near the lodge.

The gully I "survived" to get into Coldwater Canyon.

Big gully left of the rockiest part of the Northwest Face...

Up

Moar

Moar moar

PUNCH

New watch.

Bam.

LD · Post by LD » Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:28 pm

Taco, you beat me to it. I was going to call the thread the 4 T’s. Timber, Telegraph, Thunder and Taco.

Nice picts. I like that route up the North gully. Looks clean.

What are the odds of having 3 climbers from three different directions meet at the same peak? One more and we could have had all 4 points of the compass.

I’ll save a thread and put my TR here. (Hope that’s cool)

I headed up Ice House past the wilderness sign then up toward Telegraph Wash to gain access to Timber’s North side. Climbed the wash for a little bit to about 7000’ until I found a chute that went up to the West ridgeline. Climbed the ridgeline to the peak and then headed over to telegraph. Climbed the ridge until I made it to Telegraph where I was surprised to meet Miguel and Taco. I remember meeting Miguel a few years ago on a peak. We just couldn’t remember where.

Taco was nice enough to lead us down to Thunder then on to the cars.Taco then gave me a ride down to my car. Thanks a lot Taco, I owe you one.

Timber's North Ridge

Telegraph Ridge

Telegraph Peak

Baldy and backbone

EnFuego · Post by **EnFuego** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:36 pm

Taco - Sweet tools of destruction. Nice TR. So you got some new tools, sounds like you got a car, and a new watch. Congrats on getting some dough.

You got some nice routes in your back pocket. NExt time you're going out, shoot me a PM. I need to get some climbs in before April.

I was on Baldy this morning, got my eye on a couple routes I'd like to do next weekened very early. I'll download you later. A couple are short but very steep. 75+ degrees. Clean lines, no rockfall.

LD and Miguel - congrats on your climbs. Nice pics LD. Maybe I'll see you somtime.

Post by **Taco** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 7:45 pm

Cool pics. Good meeting you out there!

WE NEED MOAR SNOW!

Post by **Taco** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 8:37 pm

YUH
http://www.summitpost.org/route/497918/ ... 3-ai2.html

lilbitmo · Post by **lilbitmo** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 11:30 pm

Taco, I now know why you sold me the small ice axes, you had your eyes set on some new fancy ones. It's great to see you out doing what you love to do, head uphill. Yourrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr an animal

Good to hear that the Rock Magnet has been hung around someone else's neck for awhile, must have been getting heavy to carry.

Great pict's as well. You must have shown up right before Enfuego, Liz, Bryand and I stated up the Ski Hut trail, or just after.

Nice work, keep posting the insane stuff so I have something to strive for.

Sashimi · Post by **Sashimi** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 12:12 am

Great shots guys. As always Taco you never cease to fail me in interesting trip reports.
Great trip report as well LD. Loved the pix.
Sash

Post by **Taco** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 11:56 am

Insane stuff?

I'm looking for something more insane to do soon. This couloir was actually really really easy, a good intro to mountaineering or however you could put it. If I boarded... that woulda been a dream to board down FAST!

Thanks guys.

406 · Post by **406** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 9:36 am

nice work.

kgw · Post by **kgw** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 9:16 am

Wunderbar! Das ist the snitzel!

My favorite:

Post by **Taco** » Wed Mar 18, 2009 11:23 am

Skin Cancer Alley. 8)