20090102 Telegraph Peak West Face FINALLY!!!!!!!

TRs for the San Gabriel Mountains.
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Taco
Snownado survivor
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Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:35 pm

Post by Taco »

"One Nut Wonder", 640M 5.7 AI3

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ROute page: http://www.summitpost.org/route/476799/ ... 7-AI3.html
YAESHT!

Fourth shot at this route. Alex was interested in it and called me up, so we headed up there early.

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Either a funnelweb spider or a young tarantula at Cedar Glen CG. Really cool.

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Alex moving up

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Myself in lead battle gear, full battle rattle

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Alex

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"...over yonder!"

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Alex

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Looking up

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Approaching the crux

Tried to send the crux on the right side. Made it up a short bit with no crampons on, fired in a #4 TCU under a flake, and ended up backing off so Alex could try his hand/s at the left side crack.

Alex lead up, put a Metolius #8 curve nut in the crack, and made it up in crampons. Really badass job, Alex! I followed, fell three times, smashing my left testicle, which felt like I had my balls in a burning vice. This is where the route get's it's name. One nut in, one nut gone. :lol:

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Alex sending

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Belay ledge

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Easy stuff beyond

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Us moving up beyond

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Bizzniss

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Neat towers

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Alex resting

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Moving up

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My ass

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Alex's ass

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Alex topped out

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Views

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Alex brought bagels, and tuna. Also, some oranges. I brought a few cereal bars and the other half of the Ritter Alpine Milk Chocolate bar I had on Lightning Couloir.

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Ah, the descent! Do you like Buckthorn (or Buckhorn, whatever)? A lot? Well, look no further! We'll even throw in we submerged rocks and logs under a few feet of powder snow, sometimes covered in an inch of thin ice that supports weight for a moment! Claw your way through these friendly plants while the other bits try to snap your legs!

Kudos to Alex for postholing his way through the day. That part sucked quite a bit..

WOOOOOOO
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JMunaretto
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Post by JMunaretto »

nice!
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406
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Joined: Thu Jan 17, 2008 10:36 am

Post by 406 »

nice work guys.
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lilbitmo
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Post by lilbitmo »

Did you get a chance to find the other guy's nut up there so you could return it to the rightful owner?

Great Job, Hope to some day get advanced enough to start doing pitches like that.

Lilbitmo :D
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HikeUp
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Post by HikeUp »

Two are redundant and unnecessary extra weight. :shock:

You guys are nuts...er...I mean crazy!
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Terry Morse
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Post by Terry Morse »

Nuts are overated.......look what Lance does with just one!
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Hikin_Jim
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Post by Hikin_Jim »

Cool schtuff.
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Taco
Snownado survivor
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Post by Taco »

:lol:

Here are some pics Alex took...

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Bracing for rockfall

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The route
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EnFuego
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2008 11:14 am

Post by EnFuego »

Nice work boys. The crux looks pretty cool to do with crampons - nice work Alex.

The whole route looks pretty awesome. How long did it take to top out?

~EnFuego
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hvydrt
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Post by hvydrt »

Very Nice!!!! What way did you go down?????
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Taco
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Post by Taco »

Video:


Hvydrt: We went down Cedar Canyon or whatever it is the canyon that separates Thunder from Telegraph.

EnFuego: I think we started actually climbing around 7 something, and topped out around two? Something like that.
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yoskolo
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Post by yoskolo »

Byaaaah!
Nice Trip Report! I was on the edge of my seat!
Next time we need to rappel down though, that was some absurd post-holing!
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Taco
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Post by Taco »

Troof!
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